What did I do wrong...timing issue?
’02 B6; Seems to run normally at higher RPM’s, no power off the line: Just replaced the t-belt tensioner only (hydraulic) I had previously performed the typical t-belt replacement, all parts, 27K miles ago but the piston/seal failed (Ruville). I was able to R&R without dismantling the front end. Marked the pulleys/belt before removing and thought I had replaced the belt correctly. Engine light came on when started; code said timing advanced, parts store cleared code. Light has not come back on, however, it drives noticeably different. How do I check/adjust timing…thanks,
was the code a P0011? cause my 02 b6 just threw up that code recently. i think it may be a timing chain tensioner problem, not the belt tensioner. it said my intake cam was too overly advanced and also threw 2 knock sensors. if you find a way to take care of this issue would you mind letting me know? and if im able to figure it out sooner ill let you know if your still interested in the information
If you threw that code right away you are 1 tooth off. There is a timing mark on the crank pulley and a dimple about 15 degrees to the left when looking down. As for the cam gear, the timing mark is on the valve cover
I don't know what kind of engine you have. I am familiar with the 3.0 V6. So here is my comment: When tensioning for the Timing Belt (TB); The 4 cam shafts are positioned stationary with 2 special tool clamps. The crankshaft is stationary also, usually by a pin bolt. All are now TDC. Here is the trick... the gears on the camshafts have been loosened as a matter of procedure. So when you tension the TB, these loose gears on the camshaft "move" slightly, or rotate.. Once all is tensioned, THEN you tighten the bolt on the camshaft-gears to the camshaft. Once this is done, all timing is synced. IF you only marked the camshaft, and the bolts holding them on the shaft is tight... then these will move when you tension the belt.
I hope this is making sense. In short order, you CANNOT properly set timing without the special tool camshaft clamps in place, crankshaft at TDC, and with the bolts loosened at the camshaft gears. Period. Otherwise ANY slight movement when tensioning the TB will result in 1 or more teeth out of sync. And the camshafts will not be at TDC. If your car is a V6, then this is where you are at. But thank god you haven't bent valves!
Audi makes their cars in a, how can I say this nicely, non-conventional manner.
Any other car you can mark the gears and so forth, and not have a problem. Consider these B6 to be variable cam timing when doing TB jobs. If they could only put some of their idea creation time toward conventional cup holders. Is that too much to ask?
I hope this is making sense. In short order, you CANNOT properly set timing without the special tool camshaft clamps in place, crankshaft at TDC, and with the bolts loosened at the camshaft gears. Period. Otherwise ANY slight movement when tensioning the TB will result in 1 or more teeth out of sync. And the camshafts will not be at TDC. If your car is a V6, then this is where you are at. But thank god you haven't bent valves!
Audi makes their cars in a, how can I say this nicely, non-conventional manner.
Any other car you can mark the gears and so forth, and not have a problem. Consider these B6 to be variable cam timing when doing TB jobs. If they could only put some of their idea creation time toward conventional cup holders. Is that too much to ask?
Thanks...both posts make sense. I had marked both gears & the t-belt before removing, but did not check the actual timing marks when completed. I will check the marks...when I originally replaced the T-belt and had marked the gears, all worked out, hopefully I can get the timing corrected without having to shell out $$$ just to set the timing. Can a shop set the timing as described without having to R&R the front end?
Thanks again
Thanks again
1.8T: OK, so I started over, standard method, however, did not remove any of the front end, just serpentine tensioner, covers: turned “crank pulley” clockwise until both sets of marks were visible; noticed I was one tooth off, about ¼” toward clockwise on crank pulley when cam pulley aligned, timing advanced; -removed tensioner (put in vise with light pressure to get piston reset and reinstalled pin); cam pulley aligned marks to valve cover, had to turn cam pulley about 1/8”; crank pulley/balancer aligned marks to cover; note that I installed and removed t-belt several times in order to be able to get both pulleys/marks to align. Note that while cam aligned, crank pulley was still slightly off the mark. Pulled tensioner pin with proper gap/tension, reassembled; car runs great. I did throw a check engine light after a few miles of driving…will check code and reset. I think it is due to being reset with improper timing the first time...fingers crossed. Now on to replacing the stereo head unit & amp as both just crapped out.
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