B7 Quattro Question
I am about to dump my 03 A4 with CVT and might buy a 08 2.0T Quattro with 50K on the odometer. Looks nice but am weary of the Audi trans after the problems with my 03.
What have you experienced with the B7s and their triptronic trans?
Thanks for your help and advice
Bruce
What have you experienced with the B7s and their triptronic trans?
Thanks for your help and advice
Bruce
The CVT shudders when it is cold outside and RPMs drop below 2K. If I keep the RPMs up then it just whines. Once it is warm it makes a whining sound at low RPMs and sometime highway speeds. In addition, it has started a jerking or shuddering when in reverse.
Do you think my CVT problems easy to fix? I have read about so many issues with these trans and $5-7K to repair them.
Thanks for the info about the triptonics in the Quatros.
Does anyone know if the "new" rebuilt trans that the dealer and good trans rebuild shops last? Or do they eventually have problems too due to the inherent design of this trans?
Do you think my CVT problems easy to fix? I have read about so many issues with these trans and $5-7K to repair them.
Thanks for the info about the triptonics in the Quatros.
Does anyone know if the "new" rebuilt trans that the dealer and good trans rebuild shops last? Or do they eventually have problems too due to the inherent design of this trans?
Last edited by Bruceeroush; Mar 8, 2015 at 09:59 AM.
Don't know how far off things are or if they are at all, but when was your last fluid change?
They do shudder in extremely cold weather as you first put them in gear. If that's the instance you're talking about I'd make it a habit of letting the idle come down to below 1k rpm(this should happen within a minute) and then shift into drive/reverse. The transmission/trans fluid needs warm up just like any other component. However your cvt shouldn't be shuddering at highway speeds.
Once the fluid is properly changed it should go through an adaptation procedure. Also the external cooling line has a filter and this should be changed at least once in the cars lifetime.
The update cvts are much stronger with an extra clutch plate and revised TCM. They started introducing them in 07 models. I know there was a fix for the earlier B7 that had issues.
They do shudder in extremely cold weather as you first put them in gear. If that's the instance you're talking about I'd make it a habit of letting the idle come down to below 1k rpm(this should happen within a minute) and then shift into drive/reverse. The transmission/trans fluid needs warm up just like any other component. However your cvt shouldn't be shuddering at highway speeds.
Once the fluid is properly changed it should go through an adaptation procedure. Also the external cooling line has a filter and this should be changed at least once in the cars lifetime.
The update cvts are much stronger with an extra clutch plate and revised TCM. They started introducing them in 07 models. I know there was a fix for the earlier B7 that had issues.
Last edited by Dolamite; Mar 8, 2015 at 02:28 PM.
An '08 Quattro with only 50k is pretty low mileage and getting harder to find. Only problem that seems to be widespread is what Dolamite mentioned--torque converter issues. Mine is wonky and has been for a while, but until it gets much worse or leaves me stranded, I'm not touching it.
Bought my 08 with 59k on the clock and am siting at 152k now. My converter is starting to pulse (surge) every once in a while (when first driving at highway speeds). From what I have read they can act that way for a long time before they need to be replaced. By pulsing I mean that at about 60 mph it feels like I am pressing on the gas and then letting off, but only slightly. Goes away after a few minutes.
Thanks All for the great info
I doubt that my A4 has ever had the trans fluid changed. So will probably try this first.
Couple questions about changing the fluid:
1) Is there an actual sump with the filter/strainer that should be changed? I am finding conflicting info about this.
2) Do I need to use the Audi fluid or are there other/better options?
3) Can you point me to instructions or a video about the proper way to replace the fluid? I read on another forum thread that recommends: Drain the fluid and refill; Drive for 1-2 days; then Drain again and refill. This supposedly helps remove more of the old fluid that was left in the cooler and lines. This could make sense if there is a lot of residual fluid in the cooler and lines than will not drain.
Thanks Again
I doubt that my A4 has ever had the trans fluid changed. So will probably try this first.
Couple questions about changing the fluid:
1) Is there an actual sump with the filter/strainer that should be changed? I am finding conflicting info about this.
2) Do I need to use the Audi fluid or are there other/better options?
3) Can you point me to instructions or a video about the proper way to replace the fluid? I read on another forum thread that recommends: Drain the fluid and refill; Drive for 1-2 days; then Drain again and refill. This supposedly helps remove more of the old fluid that was left in the cooler and lines. This could make sense if there is a lot of residual fluid in the cooler and lines than will not drain.
Thanks Again
Thanks All for the great info
I doubt that my A4 has ever had the trans fluid changed. So will probably try this first.Couple questions about changing the fluid:
1) Is there an actual sump with the filter/strainer that should be changed? I am finding conflicting info about this.
I doubt that my A4 has ever had the trans fluid changed. So will probably try this first.Couple questions about changing the fluid:
1) Is there an actual sump with the filter/strainer that should be changed? I am finding conflicting info about this.
The external filter is the more important of the two. Either change it or it needs to be removed and blown through at ten mbar of air to check for restricted flow. It's around three-hundred for the filter/cooling line assembly.
I read on another forum thread that recommends: Drain the fluid and refill; Drive for 1-2 days; then Drain again and refill. This supposedly helps remove more of the old fluid that was left in the cooler and lines. This could make sense if there is a lot of residual fluid in the cooler and lines than will not drain.
The procedure at the dealer shouldn't cost more than $350.
It isn't a hard procedure at all, there are just many steps involved so it isn't as simple as an engine oil change per se. The hardest part would be jacking up your A4 at horizontal to be honest. Unfortunately you'll need a vagcom full version and that'll run you $350. You need to it monitor temp and later to run the adaptation.
People may say that you won't need an adaptation, but you'll feel a difference more than without it. The forward and reverse clutch adaptation curves will most likely change. Throughout the entire process the fluid temp needs to be monitored and you may get away with an infrared temp reader.
Ultimately parts and tools costs, you're better off paying for the procedure at Audi or a very good independent Audi mechanic that will do it the right way. If you were close I'd do it for you, but with my schedule....
Last edited by Dolamite; Mar 10, 2015 at 08:23 PM.
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