Timing Belt and Water Pump
#1
05-06-2012, 07:32 PM
Timing Belt and Water Pump
So its come time to replace my timing belt and water pump. Last time I was in for an oil change the dealership quoted $1700.00 to get the job done. I went on my good ol' faithful ECS Tuning and found their Ultimate Timing Belt kit (Audi B7 A4 Quattro 2.0T > Search > Timing Belt > ES#1876844 Timing Belt Kit - Ultimate - 06F198001B7) for $250. I think this is a job I can save some money on. (Side note: I only took my car in for oil change because my mom got me a gift card at the Audi dealership for my birthday otherwise I do it myself)
Now I'm no mechanic, but I like to think I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I've been planning on doing this job in the next month when I can get it into my dad's garage (he has far more tools than I do) and reading about what needs to be done and as many How To's that I can find.
I guess I'm a little worried that I might be missing something. Seems pretty straight forward but I would hate to get in there and realize I'm *** backwards on what I'm doing.
One thing I'm kind of spooked about is dealing with the AC system. Any thoughts on discharging and recharging an AC system?
Is there anything anyone would recommend me taking a second look at or anything that could catch me off guard before I tear my car apart?
Thanks
-Jago
Now I'm no mechanic, but I like to think I'm pretty mechanically inclined. I've been planning on doing this job in the next month when I can get it into my dad's garage (he has far more tools than I do) and reading about what needs to be done and as many How To's that I can find.
I guess I'm a little worried that I might be missing something. Seems pretty straight forward but I would hate to get in there and realize I'm *** backwards on what I'm doing.
One thing I'm kind of spooked about is dealing with the AC system. Any thoughts on discharging and recharging an AC system?
Is there anything anyone would recommend me taking a second look at or anything that could catch me off guard before I tear my car apart?
Thanks
-Jago
#3
05-07-2012, 10:46 AM
It was my understanding that you may need a specialized cam locking tool. I believe it can be rented. Not sure if it's really needed or if just makes things easier. I've done everything else to my car, but I felt the timing belt service was something best left to pros given it's importance and the time involved. My local performance shop, which was the one that did my GIAC tuning, did my timing belt and water pump for just over $900, so I felt it was worth it. $1700 does seem crazy, if I were quoted that I think I'd attempt it myself also.
#4
05-07-2012, 02:29 PM
It was my understanding that you may need a specialized cam locking tool. I believe it can be rented. Not sure if it's really needed or if just makes things easier. I've done everything else to my car, but I felt the timing belt service was something best left to pros given it's importance and the time involved. My local performance shop, which was the one that did my GIAC tuning, did my timing belt and water pump for just over $900, so I felt it was worth it. $1700 does seem crazy, if I were quoted that I think I'd attempt it myself also.
Looks pretty nice, I could make that if I needed to. But the feeling I get from the How To's is that as long as I line it up before removing the belt, and don't touch the cams from that point on until the new belt is in, I should be ok (at least not like they will rotate freely like a fan on a bearing or anything, takes some directed force to move them).
My personal philosophy is that I (or anyone) can do my own (their own) maintenance and it is just the fear of messing up that keeps people from doing it. Hell the dealerships will train some kid fresh out of high school to do this kind of stuff, I'm sure someone with a degree in mechanical engineering can figure it out with resources like the internet. Sooner or later I just gotta put my money where my mouth is.
Famous last words: "I'm a god damn mechanical engineer. As long as I don't end up with extra parts at the end, I should be good."
-Jago
#5
05-07-2012, 03:32 PM
Yes that looks like it.
I'm with you on the DIY maintenance. What ultimately led me to have the shop do it this time was price and time saving. With a 20-month old daughter, extra time to screw around with my vehicles is scarce
P.S. -- Good luck!
I'm with you on the DIY maintenance. What ultimately led me to have the shop do it this time was price and time saving. With a 20-month old daughter, extra time to screw around with my vehicles is scarce
P.S. -- Good luck!
Last edited by Damaniac311; 05-07-2012 at 03:58 PM.
#6
05-07-2012, 05:57 PM
Go take a look on utube for timing belt replacement for Audi's. After the shock of having to remove the front end of the car to get at the timing cover and water pump it's pretty easy. Just make sure you have a day or two to do the job. It's all labor and the water pump is cheap. Good luck.
#7
05-07-2012, 06:34 PM
Wow you guys are crazy... haha
There is no special cam tool. All Audi's are overhead cams but they are single sprocket. A chain in the rear drives the intake cam.
You do not have to remove anything AC related. You only haver to tip the nose as we call it. Which is removed the bumper cover and unbolt the lock carrier and let it hang forward. It gives you around 4-6 inches. Its called service position.
If your really crafty, like myself you can actually replace everything without even doing that. there is enough room to manipulate everything in and out.
Your real problem your going to face is the 6mm allens that hold the crank pulley on. They ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS strip out. When that happens..... Is what seperates the guy in working out of his driveway and the good technicians.... because you have to remove the crank pulley and sprocket together. Which means you need a 19mm or 24mm 12point socket to remove the big bolt. you'll need a huge breaker bar and means to hold the crankshaft from moving.
Either way in the end... You'll have a new understanding for what we do and why it cost so much. But then again, we only get maybe 15% of the labor which is bull.
There is no special cam tool. All Audi's are overhead cams but they are single sprocket. A chain in the rear drives the intake cam.
You do not have to remove anything AC related. You only haver to tip the nose as we call it. Which is removed the bumper cover and unbolt the lock carrier and let it hang forward. It gives you around 4-6 inches. Its called service position.
If your really crafty, like myself you can actually replace everything without even doing that. there is enough room to manipulate everything in and out.
Your real problem your going to face is the 6mm allens that hold the crank pulley on. They ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS strip out. When that happens..... Is what seperates the guy in working out of his driveway and the good technicians.... because you have to remove the crank pulley and sprocket together. Which means you need a 19mm or 24mm 12point socket to remove the big bolt. you'll need a huge breaker bar and means to hold the crankshaft from moving.
Either way in the end... You'll have a new understanding for what we do and why it cost so much. But then again, we only get maybe 15% of the labor which is bull.
#8
05-07-2012, 06:36 PM
Wow you guys are crazy... haha
There is no special cam tool. All Audi's are overhead cams but they are single sprocket. A chain in the rear drives the intake cam.
You do not have to remove anything AC related. You only haver to tip the nose as we call it. Which is removed the bumper cover and unbolt the lock carrier and let it hang forward. It gives you around 4-6 inches. Its called service position.
If your really crafty, like myself you can actually replace everything without even doing that. there is enough room to manipulate everything in and out.
Your real problem your going to face is the 6mm allens that hold the crank pulley on. They ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS strip out. When that happens..... Is what seperates the guy in working out of his driveway and the good technicians.... because you have to remove the crank pulley and sprocket together. Which means you need a 19mm or 24mm 12point socket to remove the big bolt. you'll need a huge breaker bar and means to hold the crankshaft from moving.
Either way in the end... You'll have a new understanding for what we do and why it cost so much. But then again, we only get maybe 15% of the labor which is bull.
There is no special cam tool. All Audi's are overhead cams but they are single sprocket. A chain in the rear drives the intake cam.
You do not have to remove anything AC related. You only haver to tip the nose as we call it. Which is removed the bumper cover and unbolt the lock carrier and let it hang forward. It gives you around 4-6 inches. Its called service position.
If your really crafty, like myself you can actually replace everything without even doing that. there is enough room to manipulate everything in and out.
Your real problem your going to face is the 6mm allens that hold the crank pulley on. They ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS strip out. When that happens..... Is what seperates the guy in working out of his driveway and the good technicians.... because you have to remove the crank pulley and sprocket together. Which means you need a 19mm or 24mm 12point socket to remove the big bolt. you'll need a huge breaker bar and means to hold the crankshaft from moving.
Either way in the end... You'll have a new understanding for what we do and why it cost so much. But then again, we only get maybe 15% of the labor which is bull.
#9
05-08-2012, 03:31 PM
So does that mean I'm not crazy? Haha j/k.
In fact, now that you mention those 6mm bolts, the shop that did the service for me did have one heck of a time getting those off, and ended up replacing them when they finally did.
They could've charged me for extra labor and the bolts but he didn't, so that was cool.
Considering dealer labor rates, yeah 15% is rough. Hopefully the service writers don't get more than that, 'cause in my experience they're pretty useless. Every time I ask a question they either give me some roundabout response and don't answer it, or they answer it with another question that's completely unrelated.
In fact, now that you mention those 6mm bolts, the shop that did the service for me did have one heck of a time getting those off, and ended up replacing them when they finally did.
They could've charged me for extra labor and the bolts but he didn't, so that was cool.
Considering dealer labor rates, yeah 15% is rough. Hopefully the service writers don't get more than that, 'cause in my experience they're pretty useless. Every time I ask a question they either give me some roundabout response and don't answer it, or they answer it with another question that's completely unrelated.
#10
06-07-2012, 01:09 AM
Ok so I'm like a week away from doing the job. Feeling pretty good about it too. I just have one last question regarding placing the radiator support in the service position. My Haynes manual calls out making two service tools out of "10 inch lengths of threaded rod and a selection of hex nuts." I think I understand that these are threaded in holes near the bumper support bracket, but its kind of vague on the purpose. Are these so that the when the radiator support is loosened you can guide it out and bolt it forward? (on a side note, I read a DIY and the guy made these rods, but then disconnected the whole support in the next step... seemed kind of pointless.)
Well its looking pretty good now. Hope this work.
Well its looking pretty good now. Hope this work.