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I have been mistreating my motor SMH I'm embarrassed. I'm switch out next oil change. I usually put and thought it took 5w-30.
I finally moving last lathe from storage, yahooo!! I can see the light at end of the tunnel!
And on current daily driver, started stuttering at about 2.000 rpms but ran fine elsewhere. i found a leak in my homemade gasket, which gave me the cylinder 1 misfire. starting fluid confirmed this spraying it where i could hear the leak and then knocking(sounds like a diesel) i remade it with cork-rubber sheet, resealed the valve covers with the rtv in the rising corners and lastly re freed the flaps in the manifold. WOW woow and woooow this car AGAIN has impressed me. the power this motor has smh. i suspect the inability or slow change over of the flaps in the intake manifold conflict with what the ecu is programmed to run with, the different track lenghts, resulting in different air/fuel mixture it expects to see??im guessing?? either way a leaky motor was my situation. i wonder how much more this thicker oil will seal it!
small update, got the transmission mounts finished. i am not a welder but it stuck together! trans, motor all install on subframe. pedal cluster installed with clutch master and brake booster, only missing gas pedal. Also need to plumb clutch before i install to finally measure drive line and mock-up air and exhaust. hang/plumb turbo and coolers. For cooling boost im hoping the length of exposed pipe has enough surface with passing air. ill confirm taking temps in rear and near intake manifold. found a Allroad 2004 with 01e, unfortunately they do NOT fit a D2 subframe. Although only 1" too forward not enough meat to open bolt hole. Need a 4.11 ratio rear diff.
can anybody confirm a 01R rear differential code DAK have a ratio of 4.111????
going to try to power ECU directly and possibly HOPFULLY going to start motor. the immobilizer is preventing this progress currently. my options are standalone ECU, i dont loss features but have to come up with ways to control some features. i could send off for immobilizer delete, great option looking @ 06A Technik currently. and lastly can try to power direct. Ive got couple ecus so ill risk one for research. see if power and ground to ecu will allow it to run the motor or cluster may still need to be connected, which im thinking will then turn on immobilizer. Has anybody tried power direct??
motor cranks with key but no fuel priming in the "ON" position, so idk if immobilizer can prevent priming/fuel relay powered on until after motor is running or if a cluster/ECU can be permanently immobilized because i tried all ecu i have will every key i have. none work and immobilizer flashes then stays on. from my understanding you should be able to start motor then immobilizer turns off ecu if all are not matching. with that, it could be missing airbags in the seats. they may show up as a "crash" event turning off fuel relay. or could be Transmission Range Sensor not connected down on the transmission???
i got the allroad's front shaft they fit but need an extension on pass. side. clutch plumbed, rear diff install from allroad(gonna swap to same 01E from allroad i found after i had current 01e connected), rear half shafts, all four corners got rotors and calipers.
trunk opens with remote key fob, jumped car from subframe ground and power junction.
oh yes best part my D2 finally has 3 pedals in the footwell
Last edited by glenbjackson; Aug 24, 2024 at 08:39 PM.
*as im clicking my heels* "There no place like the junkyard, theres no place like the junkyard, there's no place like the junkyard." found another allroad, got the flywheel, 01e, matching diff, air struts, shift linkage and front drive shafts. so i will air ride to this project and another swap. a rally project, a short body a8. prefer coil over on that car.
just orderd immo delete waiting for ecu now and new fuel pump installed. now im getting 60psi on stock fuel setup in a d2 a8 2003. ill measure my running car one of these days cause that seems high. however seems to want to fire now, lets see once ecu comes in.
also im designing a clamping plate for the diff and transmission diff cover. help hold ring gear and pinion together and case itself. does anybody know of a stress indicating paint or what its called?? i seen a video of testing arms of a large Case loader. if any movement/deflection(well before yielding) in the base material the paint would reveal it by flaking or cracking. anybody know what thats called? going to paint the plates with it let that guide my design it alittle.
Last edited by glenbjackson; Sep 30, 2024 at 09:21 AM.
it ran! oil pressure good now just need to put interior back together
pull motor once more swap trans
change cluster to manual transmission via VCDS
change abs to manual transmission via VCDS
making spacer this weekend
see if a two spacers, one each end is doable for middle driveshaft to the rear.
hang/plumb turbo
hang/plumb coolers
lastly extend shift rods and...... GAMETIME!!!
for driveshaft extension i used drive cv cages from two other A8 driveshaft. i think same size on other model driveshaft. i put two at each end and moved center bearing forward 2.5' and bolted up. need wheels and brakes bled it'll be on its feet!!! rear brake were frozen. they screw in and out right'hand thread. if they are jammed/frozen just take off, put in vice and unscrew the piston with a pipe wrench. and then clean out they go back easy. measurements that are in my car shift rods i extended 4" (mark/index, cut, insert 1/2" stock and welded it up) drive shaft by 5"(im trying cages first then ill have a extended driveshaft made) passenger front shaft by 1.5" spacer but does run and sound lovely!!!!
after trying to bleed clutch system and trying and trying then walking away i took apart the master cylinder and check-valve was not working. it wouldn't suck fluid from the reservoir to push air out bleeder screw on slave. also once taken apart difficult to reassemble. This coupled with the connection type and plastic body i opted for all metal master and slave. Which i can tap for some kind of fitting. Delphi and Bosch make metal golf's master and 01E slaves.\
PS cross ref. numbers for master but again look for metal construction and snap ring in bore for ease of disassembly(only delphi and bosch that i found)
Like TEMS sang "a peace you cannot buy" "something.....a little more...... robust!" im sure wick would choose a transmission with GEARS only and on bottom of shock hat air bags seal on a taper and oring at bottom of shock fronts from an junkyard allroad and rear universal airbag $60 ebay just aluminum angle bolted to another angle for adjustability, cut to fit in there this check-valve can flip and/or deteriorate, not refilling from reservoir construction is worth the wait from another country i dont want to drill hole into a-arm. think ill make a base and strap it to arm. dont want to compromise strength relocated center bearing easy access to master cylinder
good start to the year, hardened metal clutch circuit installed!! you can reach bleed screw from driver's wheel well....
experimenting with quick disconnect fittings and copper line
so its not bad at all.
nut for pulley, id slowly wedged around perimeter of pulley gently!!! the vent hood/cover comes off, then unscrew contact brush commutator???, then the diode plate is screwed down and the stator wires are just crimped in(use flathead and pry open 6 leads no biggie, comes straight off) then two halves come apart.
i did NOT remove either bearing(looks to be pressed on) i just open shields and inject grease. clean the slip rings on rotor. CLEAN wire going through/to diode plate, clean the leg the commutator's ground is on and the contact on the side, clean where forementioned contact make connection with diode plate. button it all together lastly check for shorts and should be good if components are all good. most mines were just dirty. i was rebuilding 3 and one was already cracked corroded and wasnt coming apart
dont PRY!!
oil pressure good
now just need to put interior back together
