Dead battery - locked out, key won't work
#1
03-31-2011, 06:08 PM
Dead battery - locked out, key won't work
I think my battery died. My remote won't work to unlock the door.
I did a search here and someone said you really have to force it for it to unlock. So I did, and I hear a pop, it spins once, then goes back to the lock position, but the doors won't unlock. I thought maybe I broke the lock by trying to force it, but I did it again and it does the same thing.
Then I did a search on google and found this:
"From the sounds of things, the previous owner has removed the actuating rod from inside the driver's door lock. This means the only way the driver's door lock will open the car is via the central locking pump itself, using the key or remote, as long as there's power (charged battery).
So, with a live battery, the car can be unlocked via the OEM key fob, or by double-unlocking the driver's side door, the pump will lift ALL the locks. The operating rod within the driver's side door (linked from the lock cylinder to the door mechanism) is the only mechanical connection. Remove this, and the only means is via double-unlocking, which is electrical, and needs battery power to operate.
It's the factory deadlock / anti-car jacking function, whereby if you unlock the car via the key on the driver's side, only the driver's door is unlocked, reducing the instance of being car-jacked via the other unlocked doors.
Best way to gain access is to take a jumper pack under the car, connect the negative clamp to a good ground, and the positive to the permanent live on either the alternator or starter motor. This effectively restores power to the car, allowing the central locking to operate, either via the driver's side lock, or the remote.
I hope your car isn't stupidly low, and your jack isn't locked in the trunk too...
My advice, once you gain access to the car, please purchase the driver's side actuating rod, save yourself a bit of grief in the future. Good luck."
Anyone understand this and explain it to me a bit better
I did a search here and someone said you really have to force it for it to unlock. So I did, and I hear a pop, it spins once, then goes back to the lock position, but the doors won't unlock. I thought maybe I broke the lock by trying to force it, but I did it again and it does the same thing.
Then I did a search on google and found this:
"From the sounds of things, the previous owner has removed the actuating rod from inside the driver's door lock. This means the only way the driver's door lock will open the car is via the central locking pump itself, using the key or remote, as long as there's power (charged battery).
So, with a live battery, the car can be unlocked via the OEM key fob, or by double-unlocking the driver's side door, the pump will lift ALL the locks. The operating rod within the driver's side door (linked from the lock cylinder to the door mechanism) is the only mechanical connection. Remove this, and the only means is via double-unlocking, which is electrical, and needs battery power to operate.
It's the factory deadlock / anti-car jacking function, whereby if you unlock the car via the key on the driver's side, only the driver's door is unlocked, reducing the instance of being car-jacked via the other unlocked doors.
Best way to gain access is to take a jumper pack under the car, connect the negative clamp to a good ground, and the positive to the permanent live on either the alternator or starter motor. This effectively restores power to the car, allowing the central locking to operate, either via the driver's side lock, or the remote.
I hope your car isn't stupidly low, and your jack isn't locked in the trunk too...
My advice, once you gain access to the car, please purchase the driver's side actuating rod, save yourself a bit of grief in the future. Good luck."
Anyone understand this and explain it to me a bit better
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