New to Audi - misc. questions
#1
New to Audi - misc. questions
Hello, I'm new to this forum & car forums in general. I hope I'm posting this correctly and that someone responds....... I just bought (used, but new to me) a 2007 A3. After a few weeks of driving, it seems to be failing in certain areas.
1. The oil min. light is on now. I just got an oil change and it's not due for another one until another 3000 miles or April 2016. I did some research and read that these cars burn oil and it's normal. I can top it off, now problem but this morning on my way to work, the oil pressure light came on. I can't find too much about this other than I should not start it or drive it until I at least top it off. Any input?
2. The coolant light comes on when it's less than 40 degrees. I've checked the levels and it is below the max & above the min. The coolant light disappears after a few minutes and doesn't come back on if I start the car again in 5-6 hours or less.
3. A symbol comes on and had stayed on. It's the symbol indicating a faulty light but for weeks it's never told me which light. I've looked at all my lights and everything works except for the lights located in the bumper. I've actually never noticed them "on" since I've bought it. Finally, the dash board stated that it was the right parking light. I know I don't know much about cars but is this something I can fix on my own?
4. I hear a weird "singing" noise when I'm driving. The sound goes away when I press on the brakes to slow down. My boyfriend says its the bearings? Again, will this need to be fixed by a garage or can I do this on my own?
I'm trying to handle all of this myself but I'm honestly getting a little overwhelmed with all of these things. I have no idea what should be done first. On top of that, my rear passenger window keeps sliding down. I know it's not the motor because I can hear it working when I accidentally press it.
Someone please help
Thank you in advance!!!
1. The oil min. light is on now. I just got an oil change and it's not due for another one until another 3000 miles or April 2016. I did some research and read that these cars burn oil and it's normal. I can top it off, now problem but this morning on my way to work, the oil pressure light came on. I can't find too much about this other than I should not start it or drive it until I at least top it off. Any input?
2. The coolant light comes on when it's less than 40 degrees. I've checked the levels and it is below the max & above the min. The coolant light disappears after a few minutes and doesn't come back on if I start the car again in 5-6 hours or less.
3. A symbol comes on and had stayed on. It's the symbol indicating a faulty light but for weeks it's never told me which light. I've looked at all my lights and everything works except for the lights located in the bumper. I've actually never noticed them "on" since I've bought it. Finally, the dash board stated that it was the right parking light. I know I don't know much about cars but is this something I can fix on my own?
4. I hear a weird "singing" noise when I'm driving. The sound goes away when I press on the brakes to slow down. My boyfriend says its the bearings? Again, will this need to be fixed by a garage or can I do this on my own?
I'm trying to handle all of this myself but I'm honestly getting a little overwhelmed with all of these things. I have no idea what should be done first. On top of that, my rear passenger window keeps sliding down. I know it's not the motor because I can hear it working when I accidentally press it.
Someone please help
Thank you in advance!!!
#2
Let's see.. Oil level light and pressure light issues. Could be the oil level float that attaches to the side of the oil pan is going bad. The pressure sensor may also be going bad. Or they're just getting sludged up inside. Oil sludge can interfere mechanically with their proper operation. The pressure sensors have a small hole in the end that lets pressurized oil enter against a sensor that can detect the pressure. If the pressure is too low it will trip the warning light. If the small hole is full of sludge, it can reduce the accuracy of the pressure reading giving a false "low" pressure warning. HOWEVER, oil pressure is extremely critical to keeping the engine alive. Just a few seconds of a real low or no pressure running can wipe bearings and cause major damage to the engine. Get it checked out. A mechanical gauge can be installed on the engine to determine the real oil pressure. Sometimes a good oil treatment/cleaner can remove a lot of sludge and fix the issues without removing or replacing them. I use about a half a can of Sea Foam in my oil about a week or so before I change the oil to let it clean things out if I think there is some sludge buildup in one of my engines.
Coolant level issue. Since you can visually inspect the coolant level and verify that it is between the min and max marks on the reservoir, I suspect the contact float in the reservoir is going bad. It can be replaced. You can probably get the entire reservoir with the float and swap it out as a unit. Do NOT go to the stealer...er.....dealer to get this. You can get it the same part from most online automotive sites for half the price of the same part in the pretty Audi box.
The light bulb issue. Check and make sure all of the bulbs in the tail lights assemblies (accessible from inside the trunk) are the ones recommended, the sockets are clean, and the bulbs are making good contact with the contacts at the base of the bulb socket. Clean them with some electrical contact cleaner and put some dielectric grease on the ends of the bulb that fits into the socket. This will prevent moisture from causing corrosion of the the contacts. Corrosion can cause a change in the resistance of the current going through it. This is how the light bulb warning monitor senses a bad bulb or burned out bulb.
The "singing" is more than likely a wheel bearing. This requires a bit of mechanical ability and heavy duty tools to do. It is not for the novice mechanic. Fortunately most of the wheel bearings for these cars are made in assemblies that bolt and unbolt from the spindle instead of having to be pressed in and out. This keeps you from having to completely remove the strut. The bearing assemblies will cost about $100 per wheel on average. The labor will still be more than that. I've done several on my own cars and it takes a couple or three hours to do them. Another thing that could make a bit of a singing noise is the brake pads. But usually, brake issues (noises) are the opposite of what you're encountering. When you press the brake pedal, the noises get worse..... However, if a brake pad or one of the pistons is not releasing properly, it can stay slightly engaged with the rotor, making a little noise. Have them and the break rotors checked for wear before blaming it on the wheel bearing.
The rear window has probably just come out of the track or the actuator (regulator) has become unattached from the base of the window. This is common for cars where people SLAM the crap out of their doors.... Removing the door panel and looking inside would reveal the issue. Sometimes you can hold the window up and have some one run the switch as if they were rolling the window up and it will hold. At least until you accidentally try to roll the thing down.... Shouldn't be an expensive fix though.
Having said all that, your first and foremost issue to address is the oil pressure issue. This can kill the engine if, indeed, there is an actual pressure issue. BUT. Most of the time it's just the sensors. Second, I'd address is the coolant. Then the lights and windows. The wheel bearing can make noise for a long time. However, if it gets noticeably louder, you might want to get it checked and replaced if the brakes check out.
Coolant level issue. Since you can visually inspect the coolant level and verify that it is between the min and max marks on the reservoir, I suspect the contact float in the reservoir is going bad. It can be replaced. You can probably get the entire reservoir with the float and swap it out as a unit. Do NOT go to the stealer...er.....dealer to get this. You can get it the same part from most online automotive sites for half the price of the same part in the pretty Audi box.
The light bulb issue. Check and make sure all of the bulbs in the tail lights assemblies (accessible from inside the trunk) are the ones recommended, the sockets are clean, and the bulbs are making good contact with the contacts at the base of the bulb socket. Clean them with some electrical contact cleaner and put some dielectric grease on the ends of the bulb that fits into the socket. This will prevent moisture from causing corrosion of the the contacts. Corrosion can cause a change in the resistance of the current going through it. This is how the light bulb warning monitor senses a bad bulb or burned out bulb.
The "singing" is more than likely a wheel bearing. This requires a bit of mechanical ability and heavy duty tools to do. It is not for the novice mechanic. Fortunately most of the wheel bearings for these cars are made in assemblies that bolt and unbolt from the spindle instead of having to be pressed in and out. This keeps you from having to completely remove the strut. The bearing assemblies will cost about $100 per wheel on average. The labor will still be more than that. I've done several on my own cars and it takes a couple or three hours to do them. Another thing that could make a bit of a singing noise is the brake pads. But usually, brake issues (noises) are the opposite of what you're encountering. When you press the brake pedal, the noises get worse..... However, if a brake pad or one of the pistons is not releasing properly, it can stay slightly engaged with the rotor, making a little noise. Have them and the break rotors checked for wear before blaming it on the wheel bearing.
The rear window has probably just come out of the track or the actuator (regulator) has become unattached from the base of the window. This is common for cars where people SLAM the crap out of their doors.... Removing the door panel and looking inside would reveal the issue. Sometimes you can hold the window up and have some one run the switch as if they were rolling the window up and it will hold. At least until you accidentally try to roll the thing down.... Shouldn't be an expensive fix though.
Having said all that, your first and foremost issue to address is the oil pressure issue. This can kill the engine if, indeed, there is an actual pressure issue. BUT. Most of the time it's just the sensors. Second, I'd address is the coolant. Then the lights and windows. The wheel bearing can make noise for a long time. However, if it gets noticeably louder, you might want to get it checked and replaced if the brakes check out.
Last edited by dave944; 01-28-2016 at 09:33 PM.
#3
Let's see.. Oil level light and pressure light issues. Could be the oil level float that attaches to the side of the oil pan is going bad. The pressure sensor may also be going bad. Or they're just getting sludged up inside. Oil sludge can interfere mechanically with their proper operation. The pressure sensors have a small hole in the end that lets pressurized oil enter against a sensor that can detect the pressure. If the pressure is too low it will trip the warning light. If the small hole is full of sludge, it can reduce the accuracy of the pressure reading giving a false "low" pressure warning. HOWEVER, oil pressure is extremely critical to keeping the engine alive. Just a few seconds of a real low or no pressure running can wipe bearings and cause major damage to the engine. Get it checked out. A mechanical gauge can be installed on the engine to determine the real oil pressure. Sometimes a good oil treatment/cleaner can remove a lot of sludge and fix the issues without removing or replacing them. I use about a half a can of Sea Foam in my oil about a week or so before I change the oil to let it clean things out if I think there is some sludge buildup in one of my engines.
Coolant level issue. Since you can visually inspect the coolant level and verify that it is between the min and max marks on the reservoir, I suspect the contact float in the reservoir is going bad. It can be replaced. You can probably get the entire reservoir with the float and swap it out as a unit. Do NOT go to the stealer...er.....dealer to get this. You can get it the same part from most online automotive sites for half the price of the same part in the pretty Audi box.
The light bulb issue. Check and make sure all of the bulbs in the tail lights assemblies (accessible from inside the trunk) are the ones recommended, the sockets are clean, and the bulbs are making good contact with the contacts at the base of the bulb socket. Clean them with some electrical contact cleaner and put some dielectric grease on the ends of the bulb that fits into the socket. This will prevent moisture from causing corrosion of the the contacts. Corrosion can cause a change in the resistance of the current going through it. This is how the light bulb warning monitor senses a bad bulb or burned out bulb.
The "singing" is more than likely a wheel bearing. This requires a bit of mechanical ability and heavy duty tools to do. It is not for the novice mechanic. Fortunately most of the wheel bearings for these cars are made in assemblies that bolt and unbolt from the spindle instead of having to be pressed in and out. This keeps you from having to completely remove the strut. The bearing assemblies will cost about $100 per wheel on average. The labor will still be more than that. I've done several on my own cars and it takes a couple or three hours to do them. Another thing that could make a bit of a singing noise is the brake pads. But usually, brake issues (noises) are the opposite of what you're encountering. When you press the brake pedal, the noises get worse..... However, if a brake pad or one of the pistons is not releasing properly, it can stay slightly engaged with the rotor, making a little noise. Have them and the break rotors checked for wear before blaming it on the wheel bearing.
The rear window has probably just come out of the track or the actuator (regulator) has become unattached from the base of the window. This is common for cars where people SLAM the crap out of their doors.... Removing the door panel and looking inside would reveal the issue. Sometimes you can hold the window up and have some one run the switch as if they were rolling the window up and it will hold. At least until you accidentally try to roll the thing down.... Shouldn't be an expensive fix though.
Having said all that, your first and foremost issue to address is the oil pressure issue. This can kill the engine if, indeed, there is an actual pressure issue. BUT. Most of the time it's just the sensors. Second, I'd address is the coolant. Then the lights and windows. The wheel bearing can make noise for a long time. However, if it gets noticeably louder, you might want to get it checked and replaced if the brakes check out.
Coolant level issue. Since you can visually inspect the coolant level and verify that it is between the min and max marks on the reservoir, I suspect the contact float in the reservoir is going bad. It can be replaced. You can probably get the entire reservoir with the float and swap it out as a unit. Do NOT go to the stealer...er.....dealer to get this. You can get it the same part from most online automotive sites for half the price of the same part in the pretty Audi box.
The light bulb issue. Check and make sure all of the bulbs in the tail lights assemblies (accessible from inside the trunk) are the ones recommended, the sockets are clean, and the bulbs are making good contact with the contacts at the base of the bulb socket. Clean them with some electrical contact cleaner and put some dielectric grease on the ends of the bulb that fits into the socket. This will prevent moisture from causing corrosion of the the contacts. Corrosion can cause a change in the resistance of the current going through it. This is how the light bulb warning monitor senses a bad bulb or burned out bulb.
The "singing" is more than likely a wheel bearing. This requires a bit of mechanical ability and heavy duty tools to do. It is not for the novice mechanic. Fortunately most of the wheel bearings for these cars are made in assemblies that bolt and unbolt from the spindle instead of having to be pressed in and out. This keeps you from having to completely remove the strut. The bearing assemblies will cost about $100 per wheel on average. The labor will still be more than that. I've done several on my own cars and it takes a couple or three hours to do them. Another thing that could make a bit of a singing noise is the brake pads. But usually, brake issues (noises) are the opposite of what you're encountering. When you press the brake pedal, the noises get worse..... However, if a brake pad or one of the pistons is not releasing properly, it can stay slightly engaged with the rotor, making a little noise. Have them and the break rotors checked for wear before blaming it on the wheel bearing.
The rear window has probably just come out of the track or the actuator (regulator) has become unattached from the base of the window. This is common for cars where people SLAM the crap out of their doors.... Removing the door panel and looking inside would reveal the issue. Sometimes you can hold the window up and have some one run the switch as if they were rolling the window up and it will hold. At least until you accidentally try to roll the thing down.... Shouldn't be an expensive fix though.
Having said all that, your first and foremost issue to address is the oil pressure issue. This can kill the engine if, indeed, there is an actual pressure issue. BUT. Most of the time it's just the sensors. Second, I'd address is the coolant. Then the lights and windows. The wheel bearing can make noise for a long time. However, if it gets noticeably louder, you might want to get it checked and replaced if the brakes check out.
For the coolant level, I haven't gottem the warning light in the morning or during the day - but it's also been warmer here (Texas) although that could change in a few hours here haha. I did hear that I could fill my coolant a little above maximum for the time being and it should go away until I can get the sensor fixed/replaced etc.
I'll check out the light bulbs tomorrow when I've got more time. That indicator is really just irritating at this point. I will do a more thorough check.
I'll monitor the sound the car is making & if it gets worse, I'll take it in. I do hear it more when I turn left or right..
EVERYONE slams the door. It is awful. I'll pry the door open this weekend too and take a look.
Thanks a lot! I really appreciate the input.
#4
Yep. Gotta keep oil in them babies... Hopefully you caught it in time. How many quarts did you have to put back in it? If it wasn't more than 2 quarts, you should be fine. If it had synthetic in it, that provides a little more protection but still gotta keep her full. Definitely keep an eye on that. Check it at least once a week. You may have a small oil leak. Just keep it full until you can find it and possibly have it fixed.
If you hear the noise more when you're turning, it's definitely a wheel bearing. But. If it's not making a LOT of noise, you've got time to do it later.
I know what you mean about light indicator. Tell you a story about my old 87 5000S Quattro. I was having a some weird issues with the rear brake lights. I took the light bulb holder assemblies out and cleaned the sides of the sockets (this is the ground side of all of the circuits) with a Dremel and a wire brush. Cleaned the contacts down at the bottom of the sockets and put some dielectric grease down in them to coat everything to prevent any corrosion. Cleaned the bulbs and put them all back in. Still having a the weird issue (when you press the brake pedal, the park light part of the bulbs would come on ever so dimly). I pulled the brake light bulbs back out and inspected them closer. I noticed a hairline crack in the black ceramic/glass material at the base of the bulbs between the two contacts. I put a new bulb in that spot and the problem went away. All can think of was there was moisture in the crack allowing electricity to flow into the park light circuit. The bulb monitor did not like that one bit.. LOL
If you hear the noise more when you're turning, it's definitely a wheel bearing. But. If it's not making a LOT of noise, you've got time to do it later.
I know what you mean about light indicator. Tell you a story about my old 87 5000S Quattro. I was having a some weird issues with the rear brake lights. I took the light bulb holder assemblies out and cleaned the sides of the sockets (this is the ground side of all of the circuits) with a Dremel and a wire brush. Cleaned the contacts down at the bottom of the sockets and put some dielectric grease down in them to coat everything to prevent any corrosion. Cleaned the bulbs and put them all back in. Still having a the weird issue (when you press the brake pedal, the park light part of the bulbs would come on ever so dimly). I pulled the brake light bulbs back out and inspected them closer. I noticed a hairline crack in the black ceramic/glass material at the base of the bulbs between the two contacts. I put a new bulb in that spot and the problem went away. All can think of was there was moisture in the crack allowing electricity to flow into the park light circuit. The bulb monitor did not like that one bit.. LOL
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