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Timing belt change

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  #1  
Old 01-13-2016, 04:54 PM
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Default Timing belt change

So I am in the midst of a timing belt change on a 2000 a6 2.7 with 200k+. I've got the front end tore down and I've hit a road block. First, I turned it over to tdc and in order to get the camshaft locking tool in place it moves the crack shaft pulley away from the tdc mark. Second, there is no way that I can fit any part of my body through the tiny crevices that the Audi engineers left me to reach the crankshaft locking pin hole. I have become paralyzed by fear and uncertainty. How do I proceed without destroying my car?
 
  #2  
Old 01-13-2016, 05:09 PM
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I think you can access the cranklock from the drivers side wheel well with a long extension on the socket straight in from the side. If you get everything locked you should be fine. Also if you need to turn anything by hand (cams, crank) just don't force anything. You'd about have to jump on end of a breaker bar with all your weight to bend valves by hand.
 
  #3  
Old 01-13-2016, 05:17 PM
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So what do I do about the camshaft and crankshaft not lining up?
 
  #4  
Old 01-13-2016, 07:23 PM
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How far off is it? Do you have the cams locked? Is the belt off already? If it's just a tooth or three off on the mark, you should be able to get everything realigned by hand. As long as the crank is locked (once you get the locking tool in there) at TDC (there should be a mark on the front pulley to verify) you can align the cams and install the locking tool on the cam gears. If you don't have the cam locking bar, I recommend you get one. You can get them on eBay for around $50 (if that much). Well worth the price for peace of mind.

Having to turn the cams a few teeth in either direction to get them back in to locked alignment shouldn't harm anything. The primary thing is getting everything locked and aligned before you put the belt on and set the tension on the belt. I recommend pulling the spark plugs and once you get the belt on and tension on the belt, turn the engine over by hand checking the alignment of the timing marks on both the crank and cams over a couple of revolutions. By removing the spark plugs, the engine should be much easier to spin by hand (socket wrench on the front pulley). If you experience any binding or excessive resistance in turning, it could be out of time but you won't bend any valves. Take your time and double check everything and you should be fine...
 

Last edited by dave944; 01-13-2016 at 07:26 PM.
  #5  
Old 01-13-2016, 07:46 PM
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The cam is locked, the belt is still on and the tdc mark is off by at least a half inch maybe more on the pulley. I think I understand how it works now.... As long as the crank stays tdc and the cams line up than all is well. So I can loosen the cam sprockets and realign them with the crank when the belt is off, right?
 
  #6  
Old 01-13-2016, 08:48 PM
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That's the procedure. Once you get the crank lock in you will definitely be at TDC. Maybe the mark you are using for the crank TDC isn't the right one.. You may need to get a manual on the A6 in order to be sure.
 
  #7  
Old 01-16-2016, 06:21 PM
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Timing belt done and she's running great. Thanks for the advice, once again!
 
  #8  
Old 01-16-2016, 07:11 PM
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see. I knew you'd get it.. Some time this summer I need to do the wife's 03 A8L... I've been accumulating the parts and tools to tackle it. I was a little worried about how the front fascia comes off but had to put a radiator in it a couple or three months ago. It was a piece of cake. I'll probably do the timing belt and transmission fluid change at the same time.03
 
  #9  
Old 01-16-2016, 07:26 PM
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It was a good experience. A little scary at times but good. I also changed out the auxiliary water pump. It hangs out under the intake manifold. A hole had corroded through the front of it and the car wouldn't hold a drop of liquid.I think all in all it took about twelve hours over three days. Good luck with A8 this summer.
 
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