My apologies for the lack of responses, I've been pretty busy, including a trip to Audi's fatherland.

The bolts I purchased for my flywheel were no good for my application. The 17mm heads meant there was no room to get a socket on them, due to the recesses in my flywheel. The only bolts that would work were the ones with 14mm heads or 12-point spline.

I purchased the 12-point bolts, and they're perfect.

Some may remember I'm using a 4.2 V8 40V from a D3. The harness bears no relationship to any harness ever used on a B5. I ended up purchasing a 2000 B5 S4 harness, which I've started integrating with the D3 harness. And yes, this will enable me to pipe the all important VSS signal into the 2000 D2 S8 ECU, which I'm running my motor with.

Pictures will follow.

 

I have finally finished carrying out the necessary modifications to my D3 40V block, to enable me bolt it up to an 01E. I know many have attempted this with the C5 RS6 motor, which uses the same block as the D3 4.2 V8.

After hours on and off machining, measuring, fitting and removing the flywheel, then measuring the distance and offset to find the correct starter motor, which I have...

It all works perfectly. The starter motor pinion engages correctly with the flywheel when it is activated. The starter motor holes in the block had to be drilled to suit the 01E transmission, and the starter motor itself. The same goes for the bolt holes on the upper oil pan.

Only the 2 lowest central ones are not used, and as anyone who wrenches on a B5 or B6 will tell you, they're a bitch to get to without lowering the subframe. So nasty that lots of folk don't bother putting them back in after pulling the trans for a clutch job.

I'll take pictures over the weekend, and remove the flywheel for a final clean with alcohol. I can then refit and torque it, install the clutch, then bolt up the 01E. All through the process, I used the 01E 11mm spacer as a template, which I purchased for exactly this purpose. I will NOT be using the spacer.

It's all looking good.

 

Update: 31st October, 2015.

I pulled the D3 A8 wiring harness of my V8 motor this arvo.

It is possible to use the D3 harness in a B5, but it'll take a lot of work. Getting a VSS signal into the ECU is just one of the obstacles to overcome.

I purchased a 2001 C5 S6 engine harness, which I am currently splicing to the stock D3 engine harness. I'm still working on bank 1, soldering and heat shrinking. I will then complete the lot with the proper black cloth tape, keeping the OEM look.

Audi A8 D3 4.2 V8 40V engine harness:



Audi S6 C5 4.2 V8 40V engine harness:



A8 D3 4.2 V8 40V. Hybrid engine harness build in progress:





Tomorrow I should have the hybrid wiring harness all buttoned up, then I can torque down the flywheel, fit the clutch and bolt the 01E transmission to the motor.

 

Update: 14th November, 2015.

I finally completed my hybrid Motronic ME7.1.1 wiring harness. Actually it had been completed for a while, I just had to fit it to the BFM V8 motor. It should now at least plug into my 2000 B5 2.8 Quattro. The original BFM harness would not.

I have also fitted the B6 S4 (BBK) exhaust headers, as well as one of the aluminium billet Motorsport engine mounts. Time allowing, I should install the clutch, and bolt the BFM V8 to the 01E 6-speed manual.

Some pictures:

 

Flywheel and clutch installed, and torqued to spec.

Sheesh! You better be pretty healthy, with a good dose of spinach before installing the flywheel. The 180 degree angle tightening you need to apply AFTER the initial torque sequence is really taxing, even if it's done in 2 steps of 90 degrees. At one point, I thought I was gonna bust the flywheel bolts.

Good reason to ALWAYS use new bolts.

 

So I put my 2.8 V6 30V up for sale, whilst it was still in the car (still is). 4 days later, it sold, for more than I paid for my car.

The engine is destined for a Ferrari Dino kit car, with an air cooled Volkswagen Beetle chassis, designed to accept a mid-mounted Audi V6 30V. Oddly, it's a girl's project, she purchased the engine and harness, she'll be running the standard Motronic ME7.1. Now, that's a project I'll be following.

Of course, this now means I've got to pull the motor and trans, so this weekend, I'll be putting my Pelican Blue B5 into my garage, and getting some work done. It's been a while since I drove a B5 V8, I can't wait to complete this swap, and turn the key for the first time.

 

Update: 21st November, 2015.

I backed my Pelican Blue B5 Quattro 2.8 30V into my garage, for the last time under V6 power. I had previously driven her to my local Audi dealership, to get the aircon gas evacuated from the system. I could possibly have worked round the condenser and compressor when pulling the engine out, but I like freedom to move around, without the risk of busting things up.

I did have a late start, as I was at work, albeit it half day. I did not get to start until 15:40 hrs.

The car is on 4 jack stands, though the wheels are all still in place. Motronic harness disconnected from plenum chamber (5 body plugs), which I compared with the 5 plugs on my hybrid wiring harness. With the exception of about 5 wires, I've gotten the pin-outs pretty much the same.

I had a battle with the spring clips on the upper and lower radiator hoses. The upper one was particularly crusty, and I mean real nasty, with the clip coming off in 3 parts. I'm glad I opted to run an aluminium radiator.

So for tomorrow, I'll just need to lower the front subframe, unbolt the motor mounts, downpipes, gear selector box, prop and driveshafts, unbolt the transmission mounts, the engine earth strap etc. I haven't looked closely at the downpipe nuts, but if they present any problems due to corrosion, I'll attack the downpipes with my angle grinder. I'm not wasting too much time on those bitches.

Like with my previous B5 V8 swaps, the emphasis is on an OEM+ look, meaning no induction kit. I will be using the stock D3 A3 airbox and ducting.

High resolution pictures will follow tomorrow.

 

Update: 22nd November, 2015.

I began the tear down of my Pelican Blue B5 by 14:00 hrs.

As I suspected, the exhaust bolts in the centre section (the sleeves that join the catalysts to the mid mufflers) were too rusty to play nice. 15 years of use, and possibly 15 winters had taken its toll on the exhaust, from the front flexi pipes to the rear muffler. Although not holed, the whole assembly was in pretty bad shape.

As I am not running this exhaust with the V8, I simply undid the retainers, then ran a cutting disc through the damn thing. I was in a bit of a rush, as the engine was due to be picked up today, so I pulled the motor solo. I was later called by the buyer to ask if it was okay to pick the engine up next week. I agreed, after all, it's been paid for.

The 01A is all unbolted, propshaft has been removed, driveshafts disconnected, but left in situ. I just need to unbolt the clutch master cylinder, I won't be using it though, as I prefer to fit the aluminium version, which I have. The plastic ones have a habit of exploding under extreme pressure and load.

Pictures!

 

Update: 22nd November, 2015.

I began the tear down of my Pelican Blue B5 by 14:00 hrs.

As I suspected, the exhaust bolts in the centre section (the sleeves that join the catalysts to the mid mufflers) were too rusty to play nice. 15 years of use, and possibly 15 winters had taken its toll on the exhaust, from the front flexi pipes to the rear muffler. Although not holed, the whole assembly was in pretty bad shape.

As I am not running this exhaust with the V8, I simply undid the retainers, then ran a cutting disc through the damn thing. I was in a bit of a rush, as the engine was due to be picked up today, so I pulled the motor solo. I was later called by the buyer to ask if it was okay to pick the engine up next week. I agreed, after all, it's been paid for.

The 01A is all unbolted, propshaft has been removed, driveshafts disconnected, but left in situ. I just need to unbolt the clutch master cylinder, I won't be using it though, as I prefer to fit the aluminium version, which I have. The plastic ones have a habit of exploding under extreme pressure and load.

Pictures!

 

I've been making final preparation before B5 420-R gets her new heart and driveline.

With all my previous B2 and B5 V8 swaps, no 2 have ever been the same, and this is no exception. However, this is one that I have not rushed into, that I want to turn out OEM+.

Now, the aircon compressor of the D3 V8, like most late model cars is a variable displacement unit, meaning no magnetic clutch, the swash plate angle varies in angle from quite shallow to pretty steep, effectively varying the swept volume. The B5 V6 compressor on the other hand employs a magnetic clutch, giving a simple on / off status, and a fixed swept volume.

Whilst the D3 compressor can be made to work in the B5, it will be much less time consuming to use the B5's unit. I have removed it, and given it a thorough chemical clean, taking care to keep the ports plugged with rubber grommets. Over the weekend, I will paint it in the standard colours of aluminium silver and satin black, before removing the D3 V8's compressor, and swapping in the B5 item.

Wiring wise, the chassis plugs are the same, there were 6 wires that I needed to move around, so they match those on my original APR harness.

There are some B5-specific wires that are missing from the corresponding positions in the D3 chassis plugs:

Oil temperature feed (1 wire).
Back-up light feed (2 wires).

These I will add to the D3 plugs - the pins and actual wires. The D3 does not have an oil temperature sender, but again, I'm going to fit a Y-splitter in the oil pressure switch location, which will accept both the oil pressure and temperature senders.