water injection
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,561
From: Brooklyn, NY
RE: water injection
mKey,
okey simultaniously I already started developing Water injection to the engine. (simultaniously to my SC kit project).
What I got aqlready:
1 gallon alchohol/ethanol resistant tank. Will probably work with methanol too. for 1.48. Washer fluid the blue one, ye it is.
injector, from my air pump, from Auto zone for 10 buks, I think.
mounting, Zip lock.
Mounting place,
and probably the where to inject.
I am trying to make it work from 1500 and Up RPM
okey simultaniously I already started developing Water injection to the engine. (simultaniously to my SC kit project).
What I got aqlready:
1 gallon alchohol/ethanol resistant tank. Will probably work with methanol too. for 1.48. Washer fluid the blue one, ye it is.
injector, from my air pump, from Auto zone for 10 buks, I think.
mounting, Zip lock.
Mounting place,
and probably the where to inject.
I am trying to make it work from 1500 and Up RPM
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 48
RE: water injection
kakarot,
A couple of things to note.... these are VERY important.
FIRST - why don't you call SNOW PERFORMANCE and talk to the owner (Dave ?). He is very friendly and will tell you all about this stuff. Your description is of your system doesn't seem like it will work. I am not trying to be a dic but just trying to help you out.
You don't want to inject water until you have reached at least 6PSI of boost. Do not start water injection at 1500 RPM - big big mistake. You can going to just cause all sorts of ignition problems. Personally, I would not start water injection till 10PSI boost. Since boost creates heat, the water injection becomes effective only under boost conditions.
The lines that you use for the water/methanol must be fuel grade lines. The best mixture for water/methanol is 50/50. You can use washer fluid but try to find a QUALITY one.
The injector is the most important part of this system. It must be about to create a true 'MIST' and prevent droppletts from entering the intake. If you have water drops or a stream, the system will quench the intake and just create problems. If this is the case, the blue dye in the winshield washer fluid will stain parts in your Throttle Body, Intake, etc etc. The lines have to be pressurized at least 60PSI for proper 'mist' effect for most systems. This means that you pump must be able to handle this.
Different sized injectors, just with any fuel or nitrous system, are SIZED properly for the ammount of BOOST and ENGING SIZE. There are calculations, just as with nitrous, that are used to determine the proper size injector.
A couple of things to note.... these are VERY important.
FIRST - why don't you call SNOW PERFORMANCE and talk to the owner (Dave ?). He is very friendly and will tell you all about this stuff. Your description is of your system doesn't seem like it will work. I am not trying to be a dic but just trying to help you out.
You don't want to inject water until you have reached at least 6PSI of boost. Do not start water injection at 1500 RPM - big big mistake. You can going to just cause all sorts of ignition problems. Personally, I would not start water injection till 10PSI boost. Since boost creates heat, the water injection becomes effective only under boost conditions.
The lines that you use for the water/methanol must be fuel grade lines. The best mixture for water/methanol is 50/50. You can use washer fluid but try to find a QUALITY one.
The injector is the most important part of this system. It must be about to create a true 'MIST' and prevent droppletts from entering the intake. If you have water drops or a stream, the system will quench the intake and just create problems. If this is the case, the blue dye in the winshield washer fluid will stain parts in your Throttle Body, Intake, etc etc. The lines have to be pressurized at least 60PSI for proper 'mist' effect for most systems. This means that you pump must be able to handle this.
Different sized injectors, just with any fuel or nitrous system, are SIZED properly for the ammount of BOOST and ENGING SIZE. There are calculations, just as with nitrous, that are used to determine the proper size injector.
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,561
From: Brooklyn, NY
RE: water injection
ORIGINAL: RCFerrari
kakarot,
A couple of things to note.... these are VERY important.
FIRST - why don't you call SNOW PERFORMANCE and talk to the owner (Dave ?). He is very friendly and will tell you all about this stuff. Your description is of your system doesn't seem like it will work. I am not trying to be a dic but just trying to help you out.
You don't want to inject water until you have reached at least 6PSI of boost. Do not start water injection at 1500 RPM - big big mistake. You can going to just cause all sorts of ignition problems. Personally, I would not start water injection till 10PSI boost. Since boost creates heat, the water injection becomes effective only under boost conditions.
The lines that you use for the water/methanol must be fuel grade lines. The best mixture for water/methanol is 50/50. You can use washer fluid but try to find a QUALITY one.
The injector is the most important part of this system. It must be about to create a true 'MIST' and prevent droppletts from entering the intake. If you have water drops or a stream, the system will quench the intake and just create problems. If this is the case, the blue dye in the winshield washer fluid will stain parts in your Throttle Body, Intake, etc etc. The lines have to be pressurized at least 60PSI for proper 'mist' effect for most systems. This means that you pump must be able to handle this.
Different sized injectors, just with any fuel or nitrous system, are SIZED properly for the ammount of BOOST and ENGING SIZE. There are calculations, just as with nitrous, that are used to determine the proper size injector.
kakarot,
A couple of things to note.... these are VERY important.
FIRST - why don't you call SNOW PERFORMANCE and talk to the owner (Dave ?). He is very friendly and will tell you all about this stuff. Your description is of your system doesn't seem like it will work. I am not trying to be a dic but just trying to help you out.
You don't want to inject water until you have reached at least 6PSI of boost. Do not start water injection at 1500 RPM - big big mistake. You can going to just cause all sorts of ignition problems. Personally, I would not start water injection till 10PSI boost. Since boost creates heat, the water injection becomes effective only under boost conditions.
The lines that you use for the water/methanol must be fuel grade lines. The best mixture for water/methanol is 50/50. You can use washer fluid but try to find a QUALITY one.
The injector is the most important part of this system. It must be about to create a true 'MIST' and prevent droppletts from entering the intake. If you have water drops or a stream, the system will quench the intake and just create problems. If this is the case, the blue dye in the winshield washer fluid will stain parts in your Throttle Body, Intake, etc etc. The lines have to be pressurized at least 60PSI for proper 'mist' effect for most systems. This means that you pump must be able to handle this.
Different sized injectors, just with any fuel or nitrous system, are SIZED properly for the ammount of BOOST and ENGING SIZE. There are calculations, just as with nitrous, that are used to determine the proper size injector.
WOW, dude you know your stuff.
reason I do the water injection is becouse I have peski detonation at 2000 RPM only there. I have no boost, actually I have negative boost.
dont take me too serious, I do it for my car which is NA.
other reason is becouse economy, it will increase the millage per gallon, and right now it stinks at 11MPG.
Other side efect I like is that it will clear all carbon deposit. Thats I know for sure of ethanol. Methanol is somewhat diferent.
But you are right, I have another development. Which is a lot better and works when the boost is preent.
the tank is presurised by the highest boost, which is the one that exists the compresor. then nozle is conected to the end of tubing, right where the throtle body begins.
when the boost is high more water mix is pumeped into the engine, AKA at full throtle, the drop will be the highest.
when the there is nothing, AKA throtle closed, the drop is insignificant and no water mix is pumeped.
but this is for later, when SC would be done.
Also the water injection can be instaled with the Intercooler, why you might ask, simple, to go over the 10psi boost on stock 12V. with it I think probably 12 to 14psi boost will be posible without destroying the engine, and again its all speculation. The real life will show for sure.
PS I do not intend on using the washer fluid as a mix, but use it bottle, its ethanol resistant, ever wondered what they add to make it cold resistant?
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,561
From: Brooklyn, NY
RE: water injection
Mods, a cool and old gear shift ****, passed from generation to generation.
I only fuel the highest octane avalable.
It only ditonates when hits around 2000 RPM while crusing like in city, thats it. it start to knock I eather drop the throtle or push a little passed 2400 RPM and no detonation.
I will check it more in detail after I rigg up a sterio mics in my engine compartment to the sterio system I have already.
Can you believe it, mic's core in Radio shack cost 3 buks a peace, what a rip off.
Any way, I was reading about it and found out also if to run water injection on Naturally aspirated engines, octane requirnment also go down.
I'm gona write 2 or 3 articles on that matter after I get the expirience.
1. Ethanol
*2. Water purification
3. Water injection
I will probably make 1 and 2 togethr cosue they are like the same way.
Distill is what about.
I only fuel the highest octane avalable.
It only ditonates when hits around 2000 RPM while crusing like in city, thats it. it start to knock I eather drop the throtle or push a little passed 2400 RPM and no detonation.
I will check it more in detail after I rigg up a sterio mics in my engine compartment to the sterio system I have already.
Can you believe it, mic's core in Radio shack cost 3 buks a peace, what a rip off.
Any way, I was reading about it and found out also if to run water injection on Naturally aspirated engines, octane requirnment also go down.
I'm gona write 2 or 3 articles on that matter after I get the expirience.
1. Ethanol
*2. Water purification
3. Water injection
I will probably make 1 and 2 togethr cosue they are like the same way.
Distill is what about.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
