Boost/Fuel cut problem
Hello people!
First i want to thank RED_01 for taking his own time to PM me about my question i left on a post and rediredting me to where i should post so i can find a diag. of my problem.
I will start by saying the first noticible thing about the problem is the noise. It really sounds like i have a 2step setup installed on my car but does this when im actually putting a load on the car( like, bringing the car's boost to or about 5psi, some times its higher, others its lower, 6th gear @ 35mph and WOT and some times just lower RPM Range while just steping a little on the gas). The car skips, or misfires at random times, also seems to misfire when i start her cold and u can hear her idle weird or rough. As it keeps going, seems to me its getting worse. like now its doign it more often and at lower rpms and lower boost. getting worried if it gets any worse that it could just stall out the car someday and i'll get stuck on the side of the road, and the weather is not to nice around here lately. 2 days ago we had -35F temps. With the wind chill it went to about -47F. Not the weather u want ur car to stop running in! haha
I graduated from UTI last january, so u guys dont need to put this into laymans terms, lol. I'm just looking around to see if i can find a common ground on this problem. My first thought that came to mind about this problem was a misfire, so it could be a spark, coil, or ign. modules we have mounted ontop of our airbox. Usally the first diag. that comes to my mind is usally what or where the problem is located. But i could be wrong in this area, as im not used to this type of car or technology yet! lol i need to know because im about to replace my coil packs. dont want to change them if thats not to problem, save my self 418 bucks!
So any ideas, info, or directions will be taken. Take me as Dr. House,(if any of you watch the show House) he takes info and ideas from his workers and drops one problem at a time till he gets down to the source! HAHA funny way of putting it, but thats how i work.
Anything will be appreciated!
Thanks to all!
First i want to thank RED_01 for taking his own time to PM me about my question i left on a post and rediredting me to where i should post so i can find a diag. of my problem.
I will start by saying the first noticible thing about the problem is the noise. It really sounds like i have a 2step setup installed on my car but does this when im actually putting a load on the car( like, bringing the car's boost to or about 5psi, some times its higher, others its lower, 6th gear @ 35mph and WOT and some times just lower RPM Range while just steping a little on the gas). The car skips, or misfires at random times, also seems to misfire when i start her cold and u can hear her idle weird or rough. As it keeps going, seems to me its getting worse. like now its doign it more often and at lower rpms and lower boost. getting worried if it gets any worse that it could just stall out the car someday and i'll get stuck on the side of the road, and the weather is not to nice around here lately. 2 days ago we had -35F temps. With the wind chill it went to about -47F. Not the weather u want ur car to stop running in! haha
I graduated from UTI last january, so u guys dont need to put this into laymans terms, lol. I'm just looking around to see if i can find a common ground on this problem. My first thought that came to mind about this problem was a misfire, so it could be a spark, coil, or ign. modules we have mounted ontop of our airbox. Usally the first diag. that comes to my mind is usally what or where the problem is located. But i could be wrong in this area, as im not used to this type of car or technology yet! lol i need to know because im about to replace my coil packs. dont want to change them if thats not to problem, save my self 418 bucks!
So any ideas, info, or directions will be taken. Take me as Dr. House,(if any of you watch the show House) he takes info and ideas from his workers and drops one problem at a time till he gets down to the source! HAHA funny way of putting it, but thats how i work.
Anything will be appreciated!
Thanks to all!
^+1.
If you don't have a VAG -- get one. They are an indispensable tool when working with these cars.
The boost cut while running sounds like and EGT issue -- pretty common on these cars.
The idle sounds like it might be MAF related. When the car starts, it will naturally run rich to keep the engine running strong until it reaches normal operating temperature. As the you get closer to normal operating temp, the ECU will continually rely more and more on the MAF to help determine the optimum air/fuel mixture. This can explain why the idle might be decent when you first start the car and it slowly gets worse as the car warms up.
First, replicate the problem without driving, eg. start it cold and let it sit there and idle until you reach operating temp. See if you're having issues with the idle.
Then run a second test, (make sure the engine is cold). Disconnect the MAF. Start the car and let it idle until reaching operating temp. See if you're still having idle issues. If you are -- consider replacing the MAF as it's most likely the problem.
If you don't have a VAG -- get one. They are an indispensable tool when working with these cars.
The boost cut while running sounds like and EGT issue -- pretty common on these cars.
The idle sounds like it might be MAF related. When the car starts, it will naturally run rich to keep the engine running strong until it reaches normal operating temperature. As the you get closer to normal operating temp, the ECU will continually rely more and more on the MAF to help determine the optimum air/fuel mixture. This can explain why the idle might be decent when you first start the car and it slowly gets worse as the car warms up.
First, replicate the problem without driving, eg. start it cold and let it sit there and idle until you reach operating temp. See if you're having issues with the idle.
Then run a second test, (make sure the engine is cold). Disconnect the MAF. Start the car and let it idle until reaching operating temp. See if you're still having idle issues. If you are -- consider replacing the MAF as it's most likely the problem.
Well the idling problem is not really an issue... its only stalled on me twice and its was in -30f weather.
My main consern is the Boost cut/misfire my car gets... now would my EGT cause my car to shudder and shake and misfire then cut the boost?
the boost seems fine, like it goes up strong and up to 17psi, but then when i want to go WOT and make my boost go up and stay up, and starts to shudder, like a continous missfire, then check engine light flashes many times then it deboosts. When it does this shudder and misfire, it makes a loud 2step sound out the exaust and when i let off the gas, it makes a loud pop sound. but if i dont go WOT, and just bring up the rpm's slowly with out going above 5 or 6 psi, it does not shudder and misfire and make 2step sounds.
I was leaning more towards my coil packs. but if it is not those but my EGT, i rather change my EGT to solve that problem, much cheeper piece! lol
Where and about how much is a VAG? or what are the different prices on the different ones? cause i know there are some that do more then others...
My main consern is the Boost cut/misfire my car gets... now would my EGT cause my car to shudder and shake and misfire then cut the boost?
the boost seems fine, like it goes up strong and up to 17psi, but then when i want to go WOT and make my boost go up and stay up, and starts to shudder, like a continous missfire, then check engine light flashes many times then it deboosts. When it does this shudder and misfire, it makes a loud 2step sound out the exaust and when i let off the gas, it makes a loud pop sound. but if i dont go WOT, and just bring up the rpm's slowly with out going above 5 or 6 psi, it does not shudder and misfire and make 2step sounds.
I was leaning more towards my coil packs. but if it is not those but my EGT, i rather change my EGT to solve that problem, much cheeper piece! lol
Where and about how much is a VAG? or what are the different prices on the different ones? cause i know there are some that do more then others...
so that leaves me out of spending $420 on new coil packs. but the EGT is close to over 350... so almost in the same ballpark... if thats the case... i hope it solves the problem...i dont feel like taking a parts granade and just throwing anything in there to see if it solves the problem... lol im not made of cash... but willing to do anything to fix it! lol.
Thanks for all your help guys! Anymore info will be appreciated to narrow it down some more!
Thanks again!
Now, just to add this into equation. here in Maine (dont know if other states have this also), the goverment added 10% Ethanol, or they call it E10 Gas. Now E10 is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) So if enough moisture is present, from condensation or contaminated fuel, E10 will separate in 2 liquids. Top layer will be gas, bottom layer will almost be all ethanol and water. This is called phase separation. So in 2 cycle engines, it also seprates the oil from the gas.
Now during phase seperation, it will pull out octane out of the fuel. so like 89 oct will drop to 83 oct! and 91 oct. will drop to 85 oct.
Now my car is APR Tuned for 93 oct. and Maine only has 91 oct. avalible. Not so bad, but with this new E10/10% Ethanol in the gas and lowering the octane, could this be one of my problems with my car boost/misfiring? could this E10 ruin my EGT or O2 sensors?
Thanks for all your help guys! Anymore info will be appreciated to narrow it down some more!
Thanks again!
Now, just to add this into equation. here in Maine (dont know if other states have this also), the goverment added 10% Ethanol, or they call it E10 Gas. Now E10 is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) So if enough moisture is present, from condensation or contaminated fuel, E10 will separate in 2 liquids. Top layer will be gas, bottom layer will almost be all ethanol and water. This is called phase separation. So in 2 cycle engines, it also seprates the oil from the gas.
Now during phase seperation, it will pull out octane out of the fuel. so like 89 oct will drop to 83 oct! and 91 oct. will drop to 85 oct.
Now my car is APR Tuned for 93 oct. and Maine only has 91 oct. avalible. Not so bad, but with this new E10/10% Ethanol in the gas and lowering the octane, could this be one of my problems with my car boost/misfiring? could this E10 ruin my EGT or O2 sensors?
so that leaves me out of spending $420 on new coil packs. but the EGT is close to over 350... so almost in the same ballpark... if thats the case... i hope it solves the problem...i dont feel like taking a parts granade and just throwing anything in there to see if it solves the problem... lol im not made of cash... but willing to do anything to fix it! lol.
Thanks for all your help guys! Anymore info will be appreciated to narrow it down some more!
Thanks again!
Now, just to add this into equation. here in Maine (dont know if other states have this also), the goverment added 10% Ethanol, or they call it E10 Gas. Now E10 is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) So if enough moisture is present, from condensation or contaminated fuel, E10 will separate in 2 liquids. Top layer will be gas, bottom layer will almost be all ethanol and water. This is called phase separation. So in 2 cycle engines, it also seprates the oil from the gas.
Now during phase seperation, it will pull out octane out of the fuel. so like 89 oct will drop to 83 oct! and 91 oct. will drop to 85 oct.
Now my car is APR Tuned for 93 oct. and Maine only has 91 oct. avalible. Not so bad, but with this new E10/10% Ethanol in the gas and lowering the octane, could this be one of my problems with my car boost/misfiring? could this E10 ruin my EGT or O2 sensors?
Thanks for all your help guys! Anymore info will be appreciated to narrow it down some more!
Thanks again!
Now, just to add this into equation. here in Maine (dont know if other states have this also), the goverment added 10% Ethanol, or they call it E10 Gas. Now E10 is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air) So if enough moisture is present, from condensation or contaminated fuel, E10 will separate in 2 liquids. Top layer will be gas, bottom layer will almost be all ethanol and water. This is called phase separation. So in 2 cycle engines, it also seprates the oil from the gas.
Now during phase seperation, it will pull out octane out of the fuel. so like 89 oct will drop to 83 oct! and 91 oct. will drop to 85 oct.
Now my car is APR Tuned for 93 oct. and Maine only has 91 oct. avalible. Not so bad, but with this new E10/10% Ethanol in the gas and lowering the octane, could this be one of my problems with my car boost/misfiring? could this E10 ruin my EGT or O2 sensors?

Although I haven't done this myself, people have disconnected the MAF and driven the car to see if their same symptoms exist -- it will run a little rich, but it might help you in seeing if your MAF is causing you any problems.
$420 for coil packs is too much -- you can get a set of 6 meyle or beru coilpacks for somewhere in the $325-$350 range, maybe cheaper if you look around.
The cheapest you'll be able to get brand new EGTs are about $200-$225 each, they are certainly not cheap.
With regard to your chip/flash -- the ECU should advance the timing a bit to compensate for the lower octane fuel to avoid any pre-ignition issues. But, you really should get the ECU re-flashed or get a new chip with a 91 octane program. It will help eliminate some of the unknowns for this problem as well as future issues.
Do some searching on the VAG -- you can get a cable from ebay for ~$20 and there is a free version of the software from rosstech.
Let me conclude with this -- you mentioned you've gotten a CEL so you know the ECU is throwing codes. That being said, trying to diagnose this without checking to see which codes are logged is really a waste of time.
Buying any parts at this point would be a bad move. The first and only thing you should focus on right now is getting a VAG or at the very least, go to autozone and have them scan for you.
Thanks again. Alot more info that is helping me decided what to do. i pretty much know what i need to do, but just need other opnions to help me decide better, and your informating help alot! Thanks again!
The $420 for coil packs is a brand-new set from ECS Tuning that comes with new NGK Sparkplugs.
I was also looking at RossTech, and was wondering what program i should get threw them for a VAG. Witch one would benifit me the most especially after this summer, i will be adding Ko4's and a RS4 fueling kit as an upgrade, along with the RS4 computer and it being Chiped by APR with the 3 tunes of 91, 93 and 100.
This will be my first buy, with-in the next few days, and would like to know witch one besides just checking codes will be good for what i want to do.
Also, i did disconnect my MAF and took it for a drive. It did the same thing as before.
Thanks again for your help with my problem. Appreciate it alot! If i could send u a case of beer for your help over email, I would!!
The $420 for coil packs is a brand-new set from ECS Tuning that comes with new NGK Sparkplugs. I was also looking at RossTech, and was wondering what program i should get threw them for a VAG. Witch one would benifit me the most especially after this summer, i will be adding Ko4's and a RS4 fueling kit as an upgrade, along with the RS4 computer and it being Chiped by APR with the 3 tunes of 91, 93 and 100.
This will be my first buy, with-in the next few days, and would like to know witch one besides just checking codes will be good for what i want to do.
Also, i did disconnect my MAF and took it for a drive. It did the same thing as before.
Thanks again for your help with my problem. Appreciate it alot! If i could send u a case of beer for your help over email, I would!!
Well, my vag-com key is comming in tomorrow, and i will be able to scan my engine codes. I hope it will narrow my problem down to about where it is.
Now, quick question. I've never really looked under my car execpt when i changed the oil. so i never got a good look of how things are placed under there. I've only done one oil change since ive gotten the car which shows how long i've had the car. So, Is the EGT hard to get to if that is my problem? and where about is it located about?
Now, quick question. I've never really looked under my car execpt when i changed the oil. so i never got a good look of how things are placed under there. I've only done one oil change since ive gotten the car which shows how long i've had the car. So, Is the EGT hard to get to if that is my problem? and where about is it located about?


