Egt's are not easy to get to. They cannot be removed from under the car.
I remove the intake tube (accordion) and remove them from the firewall access.
Use a 17mm snubby open end, or a 17mm crows foot and 3/8 extension/s.
You will find the plugs/connectors mounted on the firewall, then cut/remove zip ties fastening wires.
good luck.....btw your gonna have to let the car cool down for atleast 1/2-1hour.

 

Passenger side EGT is a piece of cake, easily accessible from the engine bay, like pepsi said, remove the accordion hose and it's just a pretty simple remove and replace from there.

The driver's side, however, is a major pain.

The easiest way to remove the driver's side is from under underneath. Jack the car up, put it on JACKSTANDS and wedge your arm up near the turbo housing with the smallest 17mm wrench you can find -- because there is almost no room to work.

I took a different approach when doing mine. You can get to the EGT from the topside, but you'll need (at least I did) to unbolt the DP heat shield so you can move it around enough to uncover the EGT. The problem is, you'll have to unbolt the oxygen sensor as well. This wasn't a problem for me because I was replacing my O2 and my EGT at the same time and with my aftermarket DPs, I already had the heat shield unbolted as well. However, removing/installing the driver's side O2 is also a bitch because, again, there is almost no room to work.

Pepsi, did you do your driver's side EGT? If so, you didn't mention in your post unbolting the DP heat sheild. If not, how did you get to it?

 

Ok. Finnaly i got my scanner, and software together on my laptop. I just finished scanning my car a few mins ago and this is what i go for codes. Hope some of you will be able to help me on it with this info!

This was my first scan. before i cleared the codes!


Chassis Type: 8D - Audi A4 B5
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 25 35 37 45 55 56 57 67 75 76 77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-AZA.lbl
Part No: 8D0 907 551 A
Component: 2.7l V6/5VT G01 0003
Coding: 06611
Shop #: WSC 06325

16 Faults Found:
17530 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S2: Open Circuit
P1122 - 35-00 - -
17548 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B2 S2: Internal Resistance too High
P1140 - 35-00 - -
17539 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B2 S1: Internal Resistance too High
P1131 - 35-00 - -
16544 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S2: No Activity
P0160 - 35-00 - -
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -
16689 - Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected
P0305 - 35-00 - -
16690 - Cylinder 6: Misfire Detected
P0306 - 35-00 - -
16538 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1: No Activity
P0154 - 35-00 - -
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Signal too Low
P0102 - 35-00 - -
16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: No Activity
P0134 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16622 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High
P0238 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17521 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B1 S1: Internal Resistance too High
P1113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0010 0101

Now, here is after i cleared the codes and what came back up.


Address 01: Engine
Control Module Part Number: 8D0 907 551 A
Component and/or Version: 2.7l V6/5VT G01 0003
Software Coding: 06611
Work Shop Code: WSC 06325
Fault Codes have been Erased

3 Faults Found:
8 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1: No Activity
P0134 - 35-00 - -
0 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B2 S2: Open Circuit
P1122 - 35-00 - -
8 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor; B2 S2: Internal Resistance too High
P1140 - 35-00 - -

Readiness: 0110 0101

let me know what you guys think would be causing these problems. I have an idea, just want to match it to yours!

 

Anyone?? I am tending towards the MAF as my primary problem. As of this moment, i am about to go take my MAF off and clean it. if that is not the problem, i will prolly buy a new one.

Please give me some insite on this problem. would be appreciated!

 

Damn, that's a lot of codes. Does it idle like ****?

MAF is a good starter, but it looks like there are definitely more issues than just the MAF. For starters, it looks like both driver's side O2s as well as the upper passenger side are dead.

How long has the car been run/driven after clearing the codes? Sometimes it can take a while for all of the legitimate codes to reappear.

I doubt the MAF is causing the O2 codes. If the MAF is dying it can sometimes cause a rich/lean code to be thrown from an O2, but the codes you have indicate failing sensors/heaters. You might want to just replace all 4 O2s since they're obviously on their way out.

A bad MAF can cause random misfires, so, I wouldn't start replacing ICMs/Coilpacks until ruling out the MAF. Also, it's unlikely that your MAF is going to cause issues with your boost pressure sensor, so that's probably on its way out too.

At this point, you're probably looking at replacing your MAF, O2s, and your boost pressure sensor. But start with the MAF and work your way back.

This is probably not going to be a cheap repair.

 

....*sigh*
ok... well i kinda figured that. I found a OEM MAF for 150 bucks from someone off an other forum. so i will start with that!

it kinda idles a bit like ****. rpm's around 850-900rpm. but it does skip a bit, u can feel it.

My o2's, i notice that some are showing fails on the heating side of it. i figured they are letting go, especially since they reappear right after i clear the codes.

now i did a rescan today. and my boost sensor did not reappear. i did unplug it before my first scan while my car was running. so it could be why it was there as a code.

I will start with the MAF, and begin from there. i will be doing all the work, so i wont be paying labor, but thes parts are not cheep as i notice. but it has to be done.

one question. i know some of u did or has replaced the o2's before. what site do you recomend me to buy them from for cheep price and quality?

thanks again for your time and help! I really Appreciate it alot!
I am new with this type of car, compared to my previous Hyndai Tiburon. LOL
i love this car, so i will go the extra mile to fix it, execpt to bring it to a dealer!!! lol
the cloest VW/Audi dealer for me is 3 1/2 hours away, and they charge about $120/hr :S

btw, meatbiscuit... ur car is the same color as mine! good choice execpt u have the chrome mirror covers! :P

 

get your MAF from genuineaudiparts.com -- cheapest OEM parts you can find.

Why did you disconnect the boost pressure sensor during your first scan?

As for the O2s, I use the Bosch universal O2s. You can save yourself a lot of money. Instead of paying $150 or so per sensor, you can get them for about $70-$80 a piece. You can find the Bosch universals at autozone, checker, Napa, etc... You'll have to cut the old harness off and use the wiring kit to wire the new sensor to it. It's pretty straightforward. Don't forget to use antt-seize grease on the new threads. Have fun installing the driver side. It's a *****.

Post some pics of your ride, Nogaro rocks!

 

I did not dissconnect it "during" the scan. "before" i had the scan(like 4 days before), i had disconnected it while the car was running. lol so that sould of thrown the code in that list. i was making sure it was push in all-the-way. lol

here are a few photos of my car! Nogaro Does ROCK!!

 

Try again, I don't think the pics attached.

 

ok here we go! the pics show now! sorry about that! did not pay attention.

I have one quick question, not pertaining to motor problems.
in this photo, u can see im missing my corner clips for my side skirt. i missing all four corners.
i bought the car like that and the guy missed placed them. anychance that i could find those? and where could i?
Check Photo.