CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
#1
CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
well, the left front boot is ripped on the outer CV... It's starting to click now and then, thats how I found it. I dont know how long it was driven like that... it looks pretty damn dry though. I can get a boot for 25 bucks, a CV and boot for 165, or a new shaft for 325. What do you guys recommend? How hard is it to change the axle, verses just the cv and the boot? Or, do you guys think with some grease and a boot it would be ok for a little while?
I also need a left rear wheel bearing, and Ive come to the conclusion that all shops around here are retarded, so Im going to do both myself. Thanks!
I also need a left rear wheel bearing, and Ive come to the conclusion that all shops around here are retarded, so Im going to do both myself. Thanks!
#2
RE: CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
No matter what you got to remove the axle to clean the CV. So it really come down how dirty you want to get. The cleanest thing is just replacing the axle. The dirtiest is just replacing the boot. It's also takes the longest to replace the boot, but it's super cheap!
So, how much do you want to spend?
How long do you want to wrench it?
How dirty do you want to get?
So, how much do you want to spend?
How long do you want to wrench it?
How dirty do you want to get?
#3
RE: CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
You should look up www.blauparts.com. You can geta boot/joint kit from them for cheaper than you stated. The whole shaft isn't necessary but if its clicking already than the CV joint is.By the time you've gotten to the CV boot to replace it you will have the joint in your hand (CV joint that is.) You will need a big breaker bar to re-torque the axle bolt. It is a couple hour job the first time. If you drive in harsh climates you may as well get new upper arm bolts since they will prolly be corroded. There are some good tech articles covering these repairs on audiworld to help you.
#4
RE: CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
I dont mind getting dirty, Im pretty used to it. I would do just a boot if it would hold up for a reasonably long time. Do you guys think the joint would hold for another 20-25K with just a boot and a re-grease?
#5
RE: CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
ORIGINAL: Artrip
I dont mind getting dirty, Im pretty used to it. I would do just a boot if it would hold up for a reasonably long time. Do you guys think the joint would hold for another 20-25K with just a boot and a re-grease?
I dont mind getting dirty, Im pretty used to it. I would do just a boot if it would hold up for a reasonably long time. Do you guys think the joint would hold for another 20-25K with just a boot and a re-grease?
#6
RE: CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
I said screw it and ordered a new joint kit from blauparts for 89 bucks. Got the wheel bearing, service manual, fuel and oil filters, and the wheel bearing for 310 shipped....
HAH, the shop wanted $1K to just do a boot and the bearing....
Now all I have to do is the timing belt... yuck...
HAH, the shop wanted $1K to just do a boot and the bearing....
Now all I have to do is the timing belt... yuck...
#9
RE: CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
Just replaced my axle a week ago...Definately 2 hour job the first time. The outter boot was a mess...
Got a new axle form Advance Autofor $90.00. Was tight on time and took next day delivery of this axle and it seems to be fine. Toogood to be true but if it holds I have no reason to ever just replace a boot...
Dave
Got a new axle form Advance Autofor $90.00. Was tight on time and took next day delivery of this axle and it seems to be fine. Toogood to be true but if it holds I have no reason to ever just replace a boot...
Dave
#10
RE: CV boot, CV, or whole axle?
I did mine last night as well. It comes out SUPER easy... Chancing the CV axle on the gilrfirends ford escort sucked more...
All Ihad to do was undo the spindle bolt, takethe wheel off,undo the two top control arms, slide the old CV out of the upright, use the spindle bolt as a pusher to push theold CV off the axle, slide the new CV on (this was the trickiest part, I was having a hard time getting it past the clips) fill the boot withgrease,clamp it down,andassembly was justthe reverse. The bently manual says you have to pull the axle to do the CV, but you dont, there is barely enough room to get the CV past the shock and the spindle, but it does clear... It too took meabout 2 hours.
All Ihad to do was undo the spindle bolt, takethe wheel off,undo the two top control arms, slide the old CV out of the upright, use the spindle bolt as a pusher to push theold CV off the axle, slide the new CV on (this was the trickiest part, I was having a hard time getting it past the clips) fill the boot withgrease,clamp it down,andassembly was justthe reverse. The bently manual says you have to pull the axle to do the CV, but you dont, there is barely enough room to get the CV past the shock and the spindle, but it does clear... It too took meabout 2 hours.
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chickeneater
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12-07-2010 12:41 AM