I dunno, I was wondering if there was anyway I could test them?
Techbob: i was saying that it feels like theres a big cam in it because it is idling so rough.

 

the vagcom didn't say which cylinders were misfiring??

 

well if it's measured from the amount of fuel in the cat then i guess it wouldn't....

 

I doubt its to do with misfire because its multiple so its indiscriminate ( if a cam/knock sensor was shot then the sequence of valve timing would be off ) and that would give a multiple misfire code so that code is important

 

You can check the resistance of your coil packs with a volt meter. Should tell you if they're good or not.

Check all plugs (duh). Also the wires. I had a misfire on one of my old cars because a plug wire had dropped out of its clip and rested on the manifold causing it to melt through.

Could definitely be a cam sensor.

Could be a problem in the head.

It's hard to designate without the codes.

How far is autozone? If it's not too far you are probably ok to drive to check the codes and we could help you get a real diagnosis. If it's a ways away then i wouldnt recommend driving it there.

If you have premium coverage with your insurance they may tow it somewhere for free for you in which case you could have them tow it somewhere to have the codes checked.

 

I just took it up the interstate to a place called Gell Motors. They ran the test and told me that cylinder 1 was a misfire. Does that make since? Autozone said multiple and the acutal shop said it was only one. But you said I could check the coil pack with a volt meter? I dont have any of my tools here at college, so if I wanna pull the plug out then im going to have to buy a tall set of sockets.So it should only be one of those 2, the coil pack or the plug, right?

BTW thanks for all the info guys, yall have really helped out. Id be lost right now otherwise.

 

Yes the liklihood is that it's a plug, wire, or coil. However there could be a bigger problem. I'd say don't waste your money on the tool sets. Ask around with your friends and their friends to see if anyone has any tools. You don't want to buy a tool set only to find out you floated a valve or have a bad cam sensor.

 

I dont think its a floatd valve, I think its something eletrical because everything was fine when I went into the store, then I came out and went to start the car and it took it afew seconds than normalso I let off, then I started it again and thats when it started being a bitch. Should I buy a volt meter to test the coil pack? or just unplug it from the spark plug and start the car and tape a screw driver to it to see if it sparks?

 

You can just unplug the wire and hold it near the car (holding the rubber of course). If the spark arcs to the car you have spark to the plug because the spark jumps to the nearest ground. This doesnt necessarily mean its GOOD spark it just means its spark. Check the whole length of the wire while you have it unplugged to make sure its not defected anywhere (melted, etc as i said before).

If you have spark there, the next thing to do would be pull the plug and see what it looks like.

If you don't have spark its either a coil or wire. And THAT is when you buy the volt meter to see if its the coil or the wire. Or you could just buy a new wire and if that doesnt fix it you know its the coil.

There are many different ways to go about it.

 

Alright well I pulled the coil out of 1 and swapped it with the one right beside it, got a shock. I tested it back and forth and its deffantley not the coil, the cylinder 1 coil worked then I moved it over. So it has to be the wires right? Should I just buy new wires and run them