Best ways to upgrade handling
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2
Best ways to upgrade handling
I recently purchased an A3 3.2 after trading in my 04 A6. After a week of driving and getting more accustomed to the car, it feels like it needs a bit of improving on the handling.
One reason why I loved the A6 is it felt very planted while turning, yes there was understeer. It was manageable though. With the A3 I feel a bit worried taking turns in at relative speeds. It feels as if the car wants to drift off greatly at the entrance and exit of the turn, or if i have to make quick turns in traffic to avoid idiots. Feels as if the front of the car is on ice skates, or doesnt respond exactly as I would like it to. More of an oversteer effect.
I've read into upgrade the sway bars, suspension upgrades, etc. But what can I do to remove, or make it feel less of a sliding feeling, without completely ruining the ride quality of my car. Since I'm new to modifying.
One reason why I loved the A6 is it felt very planted while turning, yes there was understeer. It was manageable though. With the A3 I feel a bit worried taking turns in at relative speeds. It feels as if the car wants to drift off greatly at the entrance and exit of the turn, or if i have to make quick turns in traffic to avoid idiots. Feels as if the front of the car is on ice skates, or doesnt respond exactly as I would like it to. More of an oversteer effect.
I've read into upgrade the sway bars, suspension upgrades, etc. But what can I do to remove, or make it feel less of a sliding feeling, without completely ruining the ride quality of my car. Since I'm new to modifying.
Last edited by superdude-; Jan 13, 2012 at 05:23 AM.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 145
4 wheel drift is standard in AWD when the front and rear axle slides equally.
Since this car is haldex AWD based, it is mostly FWD based until AWD is needed. 'AWD is needed' are based on many assumptions, either the front tires are starting to lose grip, or when the controller predicts that it will be needed, based on rate of throttle, steering angle, speed, etc. If you catch the car off-guard by suddenly going into understeer, then the car's AWD action will always be delayed.
Also, the way haldex Gen II works is that the rotational difference between the front and rear wheels is what creates the oil pressure to clamp down on the clutch, which is needed for AWD to occur. While there is enough of a rotational difference in almost all cases the rear wheels are always rotation slightly differently from the front wheels, it might not be enough to make the car be in full AWD mode when on demand.
All this means you have to drive the car slightly different, that is drive it in such a way that the haldex controller could properly anticipate your next move. That is, ease into a turn so the haldex pump is primed. No sudden twitchy turns, and when hitting those corners, no going from hard braking directly into full throttle, because when on the brakes, there is no AWD, and if you go hard on the throttle right after that, you are likely to be in FWD mode...thus the proper way being let go on the brakes, get on the throttle somewhat and when past the apex, you should be able to smash the throttle. Plus, take those exit turns as the pro drivers do in cars that might understeer, which is to go wide a bit first, then make a sharper turn-in, which would bring the rear out more.
As for upgrade improvements, you can get the Haldex Sports controller, which is more aggressive in turns of engaging AWD mode, clamps down faster with higher pressure, and has the option of a remote control (either wired or wireless) that lets you switch between standard, sports (the default if you don't have the switch) and race.
Some people will do rear sway bars, but that effectively decreases your rear grip, thus giving you less grip overall. Plus, it rear grip in all situations, such as in snow, etc, which might be a good thing.
Since this car is haldex AWD based, it is mostly FWD based until AWD is needed. 'AWD is needed' are based on many assumptions, either the front tires are starting to lose grip, or when the controller predicts that it will be needed, based on rate of throttle, steering angle, speed, etc. If you catch the car off-guard by suddenly going into understeer, then the car's AWD action will always be delayed.
Also, the way haldex Gen II works is that the rotational difference between the front and rear wheels is what creates the oil pressure to clamp down on the clutch, which is needed for AWD to occur. While there is enough of a rotational difference in almost all cases the rear wheels are always rotation slightly differently from the front wheels, it might not be enough to make the car be in full AWD mode when on demand.
All this means you have to drive the car slightly different, that is drive it in such a way that the haldex controller could properly anticipate your next move. That is, ease into a turn so the haldex pump is primed. No sudden twitchy turns, and when hitting those corners, no going from hard braking directly into full throttle, because when on the brakes, there is no AWD, and if you go hard on the throttle right after that, you are likely to be in FWD mode...thus the proper way being let go on the brakes, get on the throttle somewhat and when past the apex, you should be able to smash the throttle. Plus, take those exit turns as the pro drivers do in cars that might understeer, which is to go wide a bit first, then make a sharper turn-in, which would bring the rear out more.
As for upgrade improvements, you can get the Haldex Sports controller, which is more aggressive in turns of engaging AWD mode, clamps down faster with higher pressure, and has the option of a remote control (either wired or wireless) that lets you switch between standard, sports (the default if you don't have the switch) and race.
Some people will do rear sway bars, but that effectively decreases your rear grip, thus giving you less grip overall. Plus, it rear grip in all situations, such as in snow, etc, which might be a good thing.
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