I've searched around for solutions to my blown engine in my 2001.5 a4 1.8tqm. The only results I've found, however, are pointless ramblings about the waste of time/effort/stupidity of trying to throw a s4 engine into the a4.

Looking past all of this, what would be the most efficient way to go about getting my car back on the road? It already has 110k mi on it, and yes, the timing belt blew at 65 mph. (Dealer that I bought the car from stated the belt was changed at 65k mi.. guess not.)

Regardless. From what I have seen, I really only have 2 options, as I am not about to look for another car because it doesn't fit my budget. I can either replace the valves and the timing belt kit from ecstuning with the waterpump and all the goodies in their kit, or I can just throw a whole 'nother engine into the car.

The only questions I have in that matter would be if it were cash efficient. If I were to just replace the valves/belt kit etc.. I'm sure I'll be spending more on a blown turbo sometime in the near future as well as some other needed repairs.. But is there a place where I could buy the full engine, and not just a remanufactured head?

So basically, all I'm really asking is whether or not I should just toss the 2k into fixing my car and getting it back on the road with the replacement of the valves and timing belt and stuff, or looking into a more expensive solution now (replacement engine), but one that may save me money a little bit down the road. Are there a lot of expenses that I should expect with 110k mi on the car if I just get the valves fixed? Thanks in advance.

 

Check out www.car-part.com There's lots of engines on there and some of the other Audi forums. You'll need your engine code and ECU #. If you're concerned about the turbo going, upgrade to a K04 while you're in there.

Will you be doing the repair or engine replacement yourself?

edit- Even if you get a new engine, it probably will not come with a turbo.

 

Well, if you just need the timing belt done, no problem.

But you are saying your valves need replaced. A valve job on this car along with the t-belt stuff is going to run you like 2-3k. its pretty much a major engine overhaul.

I broke my t-belt tensioner, but the car did not bend any valves. Are you sure the valves are bent? Does the engine still run?

It may just need the t-belt and tensioner replaced if it does indeed still start, even though running very poorly.

If the valves are bent, a major overhaul is needed.

If you can find a replacement engine, that may be the cheaper way to go than having a rebuild done.

 

Well the shop I have been taking my cars to for years suggests that I replace the timing belt etc first. The car won't start at all because the belt snapped in half. After replacing the belt it can be determined if the valves are bent I guess. But that's where the money efficiency comes in.. Should I just go ahead and repair the belt and see if the valves need changing? Or should I just go ahead and swap everything out as it is and not waste the money on the belt replacement

And with the whole k04 swap.. is that a good idea on an engine with 110k mi? I'd love to do it, but from what I've seen and heard, Audi's have a lot of problems after 100k mi.. some of you haven't had any, and I know that because this topic has been brought up.. but this forum is only a small population of the hundreds of thousands of Audi owners.

 

Well, look at it this way....

You are going to need the t-belt done regardless. If you do it, and the valves are bent, they will then need to fix the valves. To do that is a totally different procedure. Taking the top end of the engine apart....whole different process.

The t-belt involves taking the front end apart, remove bumper, front lock carrier, radiator, etc. I just did mine myself about 3 weeks ago.

So, I would have the t-belt and all reccomended parts replaced. It very possibly could be all you need done to it.

Then, if they determine there is furthur damage, you would have to deal with that as well.

If it were me, i would take it apart myself, replace the belt, and see if the engine will turn by hand. If so and there are no strange "metal banging metal" noises, then replace the all the t-belt stuff (belt, tensioner, roller, waterpump, accessory belts) and you should be done.

If the engine is seized, then you could return your parts, and start looking for a new engine. Or, have it flatbedded to the place that is going to do the engine rebuild.

I know what you are saying, it would suk to have the shop do the t-belt, and then find out the engine is hosed anyway and needs a valve job or repalcement. But unless you are willing to rip into it yourself, there in not much you can do. Have them do the t-belt, and then be willing to pay to have the valve job done if needed.

 

Actually the procedure for pulling the head, and doing the timing belt is exactly the same. you need to pull the timing belt to pull the head, I would just have the valves checked while they have the fron off the car. Its gonna cost u a new headgasket ($40) and new head studs ($40) and then you will have the piece of mind that u wont break a valve off, sending it through ur turbo, as well as destroying the pistons top, cyl head, and cyl wall while trying to start it.... My timing belt slipped about 10 teeth while decelerating at 15mph and I bent 8 valves

 

thats what I'm sayin. and mine snapped in half goin 65 mph. which is why I'm wary about starting the car again in the first place. i'll see if they can do that first while they're replacing the belt. i still have to make sure they're gonna replace the tensioner as well, because it was quoted at 400$ for the belt job. keeping in mind ive been taking my car here for years now for everything, and they set up shop less than a mile from my house. hopefully they'll be doing the tensioner too.
i just wanted to see if another engine was an option, considering i'd love to mod the car, but on 110k mi i'm just a little bit nervous about the other components dying out and needing to spend more money on the original engine.

 

well before u have them buy any parts, have them pull the head, the whole motor not only the head could be toast. Also its not mph thats gonna cause damage, its the rpm it breaks at. Mine broke at around 2000rpm so luckily I only bend 8 valves.

I bought a full motor with everthing minues the motor for 1900 and it had 17k mi on it...something to think about

 

yeap. well mine was around 3000-3500 rpm or so i think.. you got everything besides what for 1900? cause that's what i was hoping to do so i could start building up with it. where did you get a deal like that? a junkyard or like a website?

 

whoops, meant everything but the turbo. I even got an ecu and wiring harness. Found it on the vwvortex classifieds, and drove 1000mi to get it