I have a simple problem that on one seems to be able to explain. I get cool air blowing from the heater. The hoses to the heater core are warm. The temp gauge on the dash indicates right at the mid point.

The most likely culprit is the temp control flap. One person said I could access that control flap motor by removing/lowering the glove box. He said there would be three motors behind the glove box. There are not three motors, or three of anything back there. I'm hoping to not have to buy a Bentley and the answer is NOT in the archives. Does anyone have any diagrams or pictures of these?

This is a 1997 A4.

 

Here's what my dealer just told me about my same problem. First - allegedly the thermostat was replaced to originally fix this problem, then a day later it returned (lukewarm / cold air again). The dealer days that he believes that when my head was changed (because of known sludge problem with 1.8's) he thinks that oil made it's way into the cooling system and partially plugged my heater core. He claims that he back-flushed and refilled the cooling system - changed the thermostat, and it has been working fine now (they should know they've had the car for three weeks).

 

Deerfield, Is your heater working fine now?

 

No - just had it into the dealer again to look at it. This time they solvent flushed the cooling system and core, as well as inspected the blend flapper. Flapper seems to be working fine - and no error codes. One thing that I noticed is that I get more heat as RPM's increase and less as they decrease. Others in archives have said the same thing. Dealer's leaning toward a partially blocked heater core thinking that as RPM's increased, more pressure is generated to push coolant through the core. I'm starting to think they're right for the tune of $800 they will replace it.

I'm seriously considering a direct hook-up electric heater for about $40.

I should have it fixed just in time for Summer when I discover my freaking AC doesn't work either....

 

I think you have exactly the same problems that I have. I flushed out my heater core and it works a little better. I might do a more extensive flush this week using an electric water pump, circulating water and a cooling system cleaning solution backwards through the core.

I know my A/C core has a leak. The fact that it costs $800 to replace an A/C or heater core is proof of inept engineering. Well engineered cars are not hard to work on.

 

BTW - the dealer did get to the flap control arm via the glove box - enought to get to the control arm and disconnect it to keep the flap totally closed. The he ran the car with the same result - ruling out the flap position b/c it did the same exact thing with the blender flap completely closed.

I'm locked on the core as the problem now as the amount of heat I get it directly related to engine RPM's. To replace the core the entire dash has to be pulled.

 

I have a very similar problem only I have lots of heat, but the aircon does not get very cold and the air coming from the side vents is actually hot when I am trying to cool the car in 80 degree temperatures. I had the aircon serviced and the aircon shop told me it is probably a heat flap problem. How can I get at the heat flap to see if it is closing properly. Where is this thing hiding and how many of them are there. Any assistance most appreciated.

 

Hi
I have Audi A4 1.8T recently my heating flap switches got stuck and I'm unable to operate the swithc panel by whch the A/c is unbale to switch off and I'm runnign whole day on Heater ,Can some one please help me before i loose all my money on gas..

 

you can pull heater core frim under dash!! I have 02 a6 and slides out drivers side research it on youtube