ORIGINAL: myaktine

Ok, so I just picked up my B5 1.8TQM not to long ago, and got it inspected by a very good mechanic. He gave it a 10/10, but there is some stuff I'm not sure about it.

First off:

It idles at about 1100 or so when I first start it up. My garage is usually around 75-80 degrees. But when I start it after being at work and the car is in 100+ degree heat for 4 or 5 hours, it idles right where it always does. Oil was changed about 300 miles ago. Is that normal? I always give it 1 or 2 minutes before shutting it off to let everything cool, and usually let it idle for about the same time whenever i first start it up. Sometimes my car does this to. It is normal.

It sounds like a toned down diesel at idle.

Sometimes when I hit boost, it feels like it's studdering, but it does it at random times, and quits almost as fast as it starts. Usually in first through second. What do you mean by studdering? Like the boost just quites out? Or do you get throttle cut? How about a check engine light that is flashing when it happens? YOu should get a boost gauge ASAP to see whats going on.

When I open the hood at idle, i hear a ticking sound, and see this:
shaking pretty bad. I don't really see this "box" on most peoples 1.8T's, so do I really need this? I don't have my service manual yet, but I'm guessing thats where the air filter is? Ticking sound is your valve train. Almost every 1.8T has this noise. Now if it's really bad then you might want to replace the timing belt.

I've got 110k on the clock of my car, and drive it fairly hard. But I always give it time to cool down and stuff before shutting it off. Should I go ahead and replace the belts? Could those explain my ticking problem? Do you know if the timing belts have been replaced already? If they haven't then do that ASAP!!!! Most of the time it's the tensioner that breaks and then that screws your whole drive train up. If you are not sure about it then replace it. Search the forums about it.

Usually just after I get done driving it in a motorsport setting, I get this light. And it beeps at me. (Like I said, I DO NOT have a service manual yet. It is in the mail.)
Not sure about this.

My dash is severly messed up, and very dim, so I'm not really sure what I'm looking at. But that looks right. I usually notice bad brake fade, and my oil temp is about 225 or so. A/C is always off and so is the radio. The car still accelerates, sounds, and feels fine when this is on as well. Are you talking about the LCD screen in the middle of the gauge cluster? If so then that is something that happens often. If you still have the factory breaks then you will get bad brake fade, especially driving it hard like you say you do.

It sounds rather weak when I start it, like its straining to crank. But after that it runs like it always does. Could this be a battery issue? Would this also explain the even dimmer and harder to read dash? Sounds like a bad battery. Mine was doing that to then I got a new one and it fixed it.

If I were to find a totaled 2000 1.8TQM, could I take the dash out of it as a replacement? Or would I need my dealer to do that You could but you will need the dealer to set your mileage and everything. (I think... You might be able to VAG it. Not sure though)

The clutch releases verrrrry late, and often revs up when I engage it. My foot is always off the gas entirely when I engage it as well. Is this an AWD thing or my needing a new clutch? You need a new clutch most likely. Put the car in 5th gear and try and release your clutch with the RPMS around 3-4K. If the car doesn't die right away and it tries to engage then your clutch is bad. If it dies instantly then it's something else.

I hate how loose my gas pedal is, how can I make it give me more feedback? I believe the 2000 models have the non-drive by wire (electronic controlled gas pedal). So no there is no way that I know of of tightening it up.

I've read that eBay short shifters are safe for my car. Is this true? What seller would you reccomend? I have heard good things about them to.

My upgrade path is as follows:

Transmission:
(If needed) Stage 2 clutch/flywheel package from AWEtuning.com
eBay Short Shifter?

Engine:
GIAC chip tune
Bosch 710N DV
Custom built intake (maybe.)

Exhaust:
Borla catback + testpipe package

Suspension:
Bilstein Sport shocks + H&R race springs
Front/Rear sway bars (havent decided on brands, so suggest)

Brakes:
Stoptech Stage 2 brake kit with slotted rotors

Interior:
Boost gauge
Turbo timer

Does this sound good to you guys? Sounds good to me! Just get everything running right BEFORE you start upgrading. Also check the timing belt thing out ASAP!!! You DON'T want that to break on you! I'm DDing this car as well as tracking it once a month with aggresive cruises twice a month. I will gladly sacrifice comfort for performance.

So I pretty much just asked a ton of questions, but I will sleep better tonight knowing that I asked other A4 owners about the smallest things that bug me to death.

Thanks a ton for the help! If you answer every question I have, I will honestly send you a cookie. Don't believe me? Answer every question and PM me your address and what kinda cookie you want.

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ORIGINAL: myaktine


When I open the hood at idle, i hear a ticking sound, and see this:
shaking pretty bad. I don't really see this "box" on most peoples 1.8T's, so do I really need this? I don't have my service manual yet, but I'm guessing thats where the air filter is?

ORIGINAL: myaktine



When I open the hood at idle, i hear a ticking sound, and see this:
shaking pretty bad. I don't really see this "box" on most peoples 1.8T's, so do I really need this? I don't have my service manual yet, but I'm guessing thats where the air filter is?


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