Even better, thanks again...

Ohh, some people say to use a cheap filter when doing a flush (of any method) since the filter will not be on very long... But if you ask me, when your trying to get all the crap out of your engine, that is when you want the best filtration possible to catch EVERYTHING that is being kicked off your engine... Whyuse a cheap filterat the most critical time? Thats like putting a cheap diaper on a baby with the runs... It just makes no sence... And I dont even have any kids...

SMo'

 

anyone can do a basic flush. I personally would get a bottle of seafoam and dump only half of it into the crank case. Drive 100-200 miles (conservatively) and change the oil. Cant put too much in or it will thin the oil and make your piston rings scoar the cylinder walls. Auto RX is another popular choice. Dont know about the quality of the stuff walmart carries? From what i know anything that is a 20 minute flush is super concentrated and really not great for your bearings etc. Seafoam in particular is a mild concentration you can atucally drive the car around and it works the same or better. Like i said though AutoRX is great stuff according to those that have used it and its a short term flush so its up to you?

 

I am going to have to buy a cheap gasket and a cheap crank seal one of these days and let it sit in kerosine for a while to see what it does... Same goes for diesel fuel... I have heard these methods before, but they just seem too dangerous to do without some pre-testing of my own...

SMo'

 

Auto Rx is actually kind of a longer system.. you put it in and you run 1500 miles on a dino oil then change out filter and oil..

then drive another 2000 change again.. if your sludged bad repeat

then back to full synthetic

(ive been driving conservatively as well trying to at least for the first 1500 mi)

easy with my dv surging strange issue ..lol

 

I wouldn't worry about doing it badly, considering all you do is dump in the aft or engine flush fluid into the crankcase and let it run. The risks are from the damage already there. There can be deposits keeping seals and gaskets from leaking that when the deposit is remove the gasket or seal can start leaking when it wasn't before ( not so big of a deal, at least you know what needs replaced) or the chunks of gelled up sludge can break free in a clump and clog up hoses and oil journals causing oil starvation and could cause the motor to lock up but if the motor does have sludge buildup it is a possibility that this could happen anyway. Your safest bet is to have it done and have it doneby whoever you feel most comfortable with doing it. I used 5 Minute Motor Flush on my car at my first oil change after I bought the car and the valve cover started leaking shortly afterbut with 95,000 miles on it the valve cover gasket was dried up anyway and was ready to be replaced before I got the car. I wouldn't worry about who does it I would just do the flush and when it comes time to do the next oil changebefore you do it look at the exhaust as it idles and have someone rev the engine and watch the exhaust, sludge will give off a blueish colored smoke from the tailpipe just as bad piston rings will but the only way to be sure is to pull the valve cover and see if it looks like mud in the valve train.

 

Ok will buy the flush and have my mechanic do it, but i will get him the stuff to do it. Strange i ask him a couple of months if the cause could be sludge, he said with all confidence that is not possible my car has sludge since he took the valve cover and changed the timing belt and tensioner. It was after he changed those parts that the oil pressure switch started to light, he changed them cause they showed wear and we tought that they were doin the clicking noise.

Can anyone point me to a website that sells the best fluid to do the engine flush?.

Thanks
Ivan

 

Sea foam is probably the best. The timing belt replacementdoes not require taking off the valve cover.

 

Ok, will try that fluid, where should i get it? Also one more thing, how long do i need to have it in my motor before the change of oil? i really dont use the car that much, so to drive 1000 miles will be a little long, 6weeks aprox. So please let me know if u think that will be a problem with my motor. Many thanks for all of you for your comments.

Ivan

 

Sea foam is sold at auto parts stores and has directions on the bottle. I just run it for a few minutes before changing the oil when I use it.

 

most lifters will stop clicking after you change the oil... also, if your motor is cold its gonna happen no matter what. Its really not a bad thing at all, just a little bit of an annoying sound. It wont harm your motor in any way.... but try just changing your oil to fully synthetic and see if that helps.... let the car warm up before you do any type of heavy driving, and than see if that helps with the lifters.