I just recently bought this car with 190k miles on it. Alot of the service history is unknown and it had its quirks.

I am not very mechanically savvy, but I have flushed the coolant, changed the spark plugs, and changed the front brake pads. Going to change the rear ones in the days to come, trying to get the car ready for winter.

Quirk #1

While coming to a complete stop, it feels as if there is something "rolling under my foot" on the brake pedal, as if it hit a bump, I mean it's a pretty big feeling, can't miss it... Only happens maybe once every 15 complete stops.

Quirk #2

When accelerating from a stop, taking a corner, or moving at slow speeds, there is a slight grinding noise, sounds like possible pad/rotor noise, it is hard to tell where it is coming from.. it sounds like metal on metal type noise. I am going to change the rear brake pads in the next few days, all the rotors' surfaces are good.

Quirk #3 (One that bothers me the most)

Tough one to describe, while hitting 2500-3000 RPM, the car goes into a humming/vibrating noise seeming to come from the rear, happens at any speed above 40MPH as well.. When you push the pedal down to accelerate, it seems to go awhile, coasting or maintaining a speed, it totally hums and vibrates the car. Guy who I bought it from said the driveshaft, I am seeing it may be possibly wheel bearings, hmm?

Quirk #4

Timing belt -- History unknown, this worries me, is there an easy way to check or should I bring it to an Audi dealer to have them look at it?

Quirk #5

Sometimes it doesn't kick into Overdrive when it should, I have to play with the pedal a bit to get it to kick over, doesn't really bother me too much, but what is causing that?

Answer what you can, all appreciated, Thanks alot.

 

5 Problems not 2, oops, lol.

 

On questions #1 & 2; did they do that before your change of the front pads? If not than I would resurface the rotors just in case and make sure everything is tight and maybe replace the spring tensioner on the caliper. #3 sounds like to me that the bearings are going out in the rear. It may also be the drive shaft (just get underneath the car and check the seals and check for play in the driveshaft). Sorry, can not help out with the #4 & 5.

 

On questions #1/2, they did that since I bought the car.. I am changing the brake pads in an effort to see if it goes away, the front brake pads had no effect on the issue.

I figured it might cure #2, #1 I am unsure of though.

Can you elaborate on your answer to #3 ? I don't have a repair manual of any sorts (because nobody made one except Audi), so I am unsure of where the driveshaft is actually located at.

I may take this to a private mechanic who has worked on Audi's to have him look at these. I could probably change these rear pads first though, it took me awhile to get the new pads in on the first wheel, second wheel was a breeze after I knew what to expect.

 

1. possible abs pump engaging
2 & 3. drive shaft bearing or wheel bearing going bad
4. Collins or Ktan can change it for you since you are local. See end of post
5. Kennedy Transmission on Lyndale and 98th I believe will change your fluid, filter and gasket for around $150. That might help with the lazy overdrive.


Ktan's post

Since I've been asked to "fix" alot of minor audi problems here and there, I want to take the time to post an official labor rate list so that the price remains consistent across the board for everyone. Typically pricing is based on 0.5 of dealership rates (most of them are lower than that). If its not on the list I will estimate a lower rate due to taking more time. I actually had to go through most of the list below on my own car and always felt like being raped at the dealer, so i figured i would help everyone out also. However, I do have a full time job also and a fiance to keep happy, hence my availabilty is limited to only weekends and most evenings (i suggest keeping clutch jobs to the weekends!) I also only accept cash or check. All the work will be performed at Elite Autosport located on the corner of 26th Ave and Washington Ave in Minneapolis. A cut of my labor rate goes to the owner also for shop use. my number is (612) 961-0649 my email is kevinltan@comcast.net Timing belts, seals and various other jobs are all Brian's, i listed those at the bottom also which are WELL below dealer rates!! (note that these prices include the parts also) **Parts are NOT included unless stated. However I can get parts for you. Clutch S4 $700 A4 $650 Cat Back Exhaust A4, S4 $50 Stabilizer Bar A4, S4 $60 Downpipes (S4) S4 $250 Downpipe-catback(1.8/2.0) A4 $150 O2 sensor replacement(P) S4 $50 O2 sensor replacement(D) S4 $75 EGT replacement(P) S4 $50 EGT replacement(D) S4 $75 Fuel Filter A4, S4 $45 ($65 total with part) Suspension CV Replace A4, S4 $100/shaft Swaybars A4, S4 $60/set Shocks/springs* A4, S4, TT, R32 $350 *(Seized upper control arm bolts add $50 per seized bolt) Bearing (rear) A4, S4 $120 Bearing (front) A4, S4 $150 Brakes (pad/rotor replace) A4, S4 $75/pair Collins Timing Belt $650 parts included Gaskets/seals on head $350 parts included rear diff seals $300 parts included