Alright, in the process of finishing up my timing belt. I used cam locks, but not crank lock - figured it wasn't worth the extra effort and plus, it takes some good force to turn over the crank - not like you can accidentally bump it and spin it. Anyway, after I removed the dampener, I used a black marker and colored the top tooth and made a mark on the engine block - figured as long as they're lined up, then I'm fine. Well, new belt is on and I just put lower timing cover on. I placed dampener back on and noticed the mark on dampener and mark on timing cover are about 1/4" off. From the looks of it, the crank turned counterclockwise 1/4".

Now, the only possible way I can see this happening is when I tensioned the new belt?!? The mark was dead-on when I installed new belt and it still looks dead on now. Tightening the tensioner should've turned it clockwise (b/c it's on the left side and would've stretched belt upward), so the only counterclockwise action would've been when I tightened eccentric pulley (b/c it's on right and pulling upward). Is it possible to have slightly turned from that? Would it be okay though if the teeth of timing belt were set on crank & cam pulleys at the time?

If not, what are my options? I'm guessing remove timing belt, reinstall dampener and lower cover, turn to timing mark and try again?

 

just wondering.. did you untight'n the bolts om the camweels before tighting the belt??

 

The crank needs to be kept on the mark when you tighten the cam pullies so even though the crank moved the cams did not because the pullies are all loose and able to move on the end of the cam shaft. Turn the crank back on mark (with the cam bolts still loose) then once it is on mark check your cam clamps to make sure they are in goodand solid. Then tighten the cam bolts. They get torqued very tight.

As long as your belt is tensioned and your crank is on mark when you tighten your cam bolts you'll be fine.

 

Okay, here is what I did. I installed new belt, tensioned it (eccentric & tensioner), then I did the exhaust cams, then I tightened cam bolts. I then replaced lower cover, installed dampener and noticed crank is slightly off.

For kicks, I put the 24mm socket on it and my breaker bar and tried turning it a little (cam locks still on) and it turned dead on for the timing mark - when I let off, it stayed there. So, mark is dead on right now. Is it possible there was just a 'hint' of slack in the belt??? (although I pretensioned it and then tensioned it via Bentley instructions?!?)

Jackmup - So, if I understand you correctly, do not remove the belt, just break loose cam bolts, turn crank to mark, then tighten cam bolts? That makes sense, but it is what I did before anyway. Guess it won't kill me to do it again.


EDIT : Okay, just did that process - held crank in place while I torqued cams. Crank is right on and cam bolts are all tight. I removed locks and turned motor over twice (4 revolutions b/c I missed mark the 2nd time) and locks still slide on although pass side was a lil tight (but then again, it was tight the very first time I did it too - kinda had to work crank back/forth mm or two to get it to slide on nicely). Anyway, I think I'm alright. I swear I hear something on that side every few turns, but I'd think if valves were really contacting a piston, I couldn't turn past it - think I'm just paranoid. Turned it over once more and same thing, so I'm 99% sure I'm fine.

 

Put it this way if you can drop the cam clamps into place and the crank is on the mark. Your good to go.

Sounds like you've got it.

 

Though different engine, I had the same thing when I installed mine.
The belt is routed under the crank shaft, and it has to be done before installing back the ring cover (with the TDC mark) and the pulley. Somehow it got some slack under there, and made me sweat thinking that Arizona Autohaus sent me a shorter belt... After a good hand cranking the slack surfaced. Only after I re-routed the belt and made sure all the marks are right I tightened and torqued the cam bolts, just as Jack already said it.

P.S.> If the valves were hitting the pistons, then you probably wouldn't have been able to freely turn it by hand.

 

The dapner with the timing mark does have a little play when you bolt it up to the pulley i marked the crank gear and the block with a scribe so i would know if it moved it did. when i moved the crank back and installed the dapner with the timing mark you could move it about a quarter inch past the timing mark, there is some play there, your best bet is to install crank locking tool and check camshaft alignment if all is good loosen dapner and the timing marks can be lined up by rotating dapner. if your a tooth off call your banker.

 

Well, job is done and I'll admit, that was the toughest turn of a key ever!! I was sure I had it right, but just the thought of having to tear it all down and dive into the heads......

Anyway, all is well. Drove her around for a few minutes, but the stupid transmission wanting to go into limp mode reminded me my work isn't quite yet done. Still feels good to save over $1000 by doing it myself though!!