I swapped out my wheel bearing this weekend and the brake line into the caliper was stuck, we tried it all and it would not budge.

So I cut the line, bought a new caliper, relflared it and put it back together. I bled that corner and although I thought I had capped the line properly it must have still leaked when it was disassembled.

I bled the corner, went to pull out of garage, clutch pedal is crap...so now I need to bleed the clutch. Figure it must have leaked down far enough that it probably effected the ABS also.

Can I gravity bleed the clutch?

Will the Rosstech VAGcom do the ABS bleed?

If not I'll just bleed the corners, do some ABS stops, and then bleed them again.

I gravity bled my clutch the first time but the results were so-so...I left it for a few hours and went through at least a couple oz of fluid too.

 

I apologize for barging in...

I'm just curious, did you have any trouble separating the bearing from the wheel hub? Did you use a special puller or something else?
I had trouble with mine (on the driver side) a week back, and would like to get a different perspective from someone else who replaced it.
Thanks much, and sorry again for off-toping your help inquiry.

 

IMO even with a press not worth the trouble to do yourself.

I took the knuckle, hub ,and bearing into a machine shop, $20 and an hour later all done for me.

 

I truly appreciate the reply.
As a matter of fact, I asked because I had trouble with mine. When prying apart the hub and bearing, the outter race remained inside the knuckle(spindle). I had to take the whole suspension assembly (knuckle + strut/coilover) out and get it under a press. That didn't work.
Next was heat + press. That didn't work either.
Was only able to cut it with an oxy-acetylene torch - thanks to a friend.
Probably I will look into finding a machine shop for the passenger side bearing. At least now I know what I'm up against.

Thanks again.

 

I can't imagine trying to do that on the car and I have a hoist.

You don't need to take the strut out. Just undo the uppers, the tie rod, axle, caliper, and then take sway bar link, shock to lower bolt, and lowers off the body side then take the lowers off the knuckle.

If nothing is truly screwed up its about an hour to disassemble.

put back together in the same order. I put the lowers on the knuckle, bolt it to the body, then use the axle to hold the knuckle upright while I do the rest.

Torque it all down, throw another $20 at the local shop in town to torque your lowers to the body properly, on a drive on hoist.

I have a 2 post hoist but I still run it upto the local shop to put it on their drive on and torque the lower bolts under load like you should.

 

As for the brake bleeding, you don't need to use the vag com to bleed the ABS unless you have a Bosch 5.3 which is the pre 96 model. However, when air gets in the system you usually have to use a pressure bleeder on the master cylinder, then bleed all four corners in this sequence:
Left front
Right front
Right rear
Left rear
Or:
Right front
Left front
Right rear
Left rear

Either sequence works fine, but audi hydraulic systems take a while to bleed for some reason.
If the clutch pedal still feels spongy after doing this you may have to pressure bleed the slave cylinder.