Is anyone familiar with or has any sort of advice concerning GRANT piston rings?
They sound like a US reputable company, and I would doubt they manufacture their stuff in China, but you never know.
Thanks

 

I'm fed-up with ECSTuning...this time will be the last time when they'll have me as a customer. Every of both different orders in the past arrived after two weeks.
This time I placed an order on 24th (a week ago) and yesterday I get an e-mail if I still want to go through with the order (although they got the money through PayPal instantly, on 24th) since the head's oil relief valves are on back order and they have no ETA listed. But they never processed/sent the rest of the other 12 different items... WTF?
Today they split the order in two but the "available" 12 items are still not shipped, while on the webpage it says under status that there was a... processing error:
...BFS...
I really do have other venues to get my parts from, without a headache and wayyyyyyyyyyy much quicker... Tootles, ECSTuning, even if a customer less is not a big deal for ya ... I had it.

 

The funnier part, except for one or two items, everything was "IN STOCK", and Ohio is just one state away...the other side of Indiana... I would really laugh if it wasn't so mind boggling.

 

Well, actually I should have given them a try before ECSTuning.
I'm glad that at least I cancelled the "back ordered" valves, and from $ 45.79 @ ECST, I found them for $ 28 and change at Genuine.
Too bad that the check valves ($ 56.76 @ ECST) were already ordered... Genuine had them also for $ 35 and change...
And think of it, I already had an account with them, although I had them saved under "genuineVWaudiparts.com".
They really jumped to the top of MY favs, along with AboveAllWerks.com

 

Currently I'm still waiting on some parts, I can't start assembly without: main bearings and the rings set. I also just ordered today a Torque converter seal from a ZF reseller (I just don't get this whole "intermediate man" crap since the "warehouse" is located right here in Illinois - Vernon Hills; I guess it probably is too difficult or waste of money/personnel to have one or two people that can take care of and fulfill individual sales/orders). Since the engine bay is presently gutted, I might as well take advantage now and replace that seal. I hear that in time they become "mushy" when heated, even if they don't show signs of leaking when cold.
I was also thinking to replace now the transmission flange and drive seals, but unfortunately I didn't loose the axle bolts before raising the car - doh... I'll do that when she's back on her "feet"

Rookie mistake I guess, or should maybe file it under "bad preparation train of thought"... too many things to worry about.
However, I got the parts back from the machine shop: heads, block, both sections of the oil pan, pistons. I already painted the oil pan's lower section, although is just aluminum for crying out loud; though it will make it look clean at least for a while...
The whole deal wasn't that bad: $ 257, which included a valve job (new seals and exhaust valves resurfacing/grinding - I think mainly the shoulders) and new freeze plugs.
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I need to clean the piston's ring grooves before the ring set arrives, and then start putting them together. Thinking in retrospect, I should have left the crankshaft on and not clean the block. The cleaning process peeled off/dissolved the paint on it. Also, I had to order new main bearing cap bolts. Together with the connecting rod cap bolts ammounted for another $ 100.
(from genuinevwaudiparts)
Dealer prices:
main bearing bolts (8) = $ 126 - $ 15.75/bolt...
connecting rod cap bolts (12) = $ 189 - $ 15.75/bolt...
Well, enough ranting about money... Got an Audi, you gotta "run" with the high rollers, Vegas style ... George, Jack, Fred, Bob - what do you guys think?
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Don't remember if I attached this one or not, but the cylinders were looking still excellent @ 167,000 miles...
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back on the engine stand

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will keep updating

 

One way to clean ring grooves is to break an old ring and use it as a scraper.

Coat the block with POR-15.

Looks like you are having fun!

Bob

 

Thanks for the ring tip, Bob.
About the POR-15... I greatly respect your advice and I know is one of the best around. Got some concerns and questions, though.
For the POR-15 I'll probably have to wait another week to get it, as I can see they're located in NJ.
Secondly, since they have different products, what is it best: Paint Over RUST, or just Engine ENAMEL, or a combination of both?
They say nothing about a "baking" step, so that would suit me just fine - have no way to do that, anyway. As I understand, on the engine block I don't necessarily need "high heat resistant" paint, as the block runs much cooler than the headers.

Lastly, would any other engine enamel that I can find locally work? Do I need anything more than 500°F?
Thanks much.

 

Another "name" on the black list: Febi Bilstein...
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The ring set also came and I feel very...patriotic . However, the lubricating "ring" with the expander insert looks different, as it has two thin parts to go over the expander. The ones I took off the pistons were single piece with a deep groove for the expander...hmmm
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The main bearing set (Glyco - Federal Mogul) is made in Poland.
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I'll start the rebuild in the upcoming days, as I need to replace the TQ seal (which also arrived), clean a few more things around, and repaint the block.

 

Thanks for the great read, Your previous head gasket replacement post was a great help for when i pulled the head off my car, Unfortuntely mine had too much wear in the bores, So i took the easy option and put in a used motor with 90k on it ,Good luck with your rebuild.