Audi A6 The mid-sized Audi A6 model offers more room to the driver and passengers over the A4 line.

camshaft replacement

Old Mar 16, 2011 | 05:27 PM
  #41  
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thanks chefro i found it and when the rain stops ill take that connector out and stick the tool in there... dont know what i will do without all teh help from u and others on here... u guys are awesome

mmmm ok so i have another question
the bentley says that the caps on the camshaft from the tensioner out should be 4-3-2 like in this picture:
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they wrote 4-3-2 really really small so its hard to see so i made a zoomed one





and this is mine



so as u see mine goes 2-3-4 instead of 4-3-2 my question is is it normal?
i had the cam tensioner gasket and valve gaskets done so i know they took all this apart and put it back together so could they have mixed the locations of 2 and 4 and as a result my camshaft and lifters got all screwed on those locations?(the lifter on 2 actually had a hole in it and the camshaft lobe was torn apart like crazy... ill get some pics of it when i get back from school)

checkout how clean it is

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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 12:45 AM
  #42  
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sooo here is number 2 on the camshaft

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and this is the lifter (notice is has a freaking HOLE in it lol)

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this is the middle lifter on number 3

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and the middle one on 4 looks the same...

but overall it looks pretty clean to me

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what and how should i clean in there?
 
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 01:43 AM
  #43  
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By looking in the Bentley illustration, both bearing caps # 4 (regardless of being "single file" or "double file") are on the tensioner side.
In your photo you labeled them according to the number on the bearing caps (I can see them), so either your shop screwed up the bearing caps order when reinstalling (flipping # 2s with # 4s), or Bentley is wrong - I highly doubt that as my C4 illustrations are accurate.
Your engine is pretty clean. If it would have had sludge build-up, you'd have found it all over the heads.
I'm going on a limb and say that the lobe was screwed up by either the lifter which went out of normal position, or due to the wrong bearing cap it got oil starved. I mean you can see it is chipped... wow.
Your valves are looking extremely clean, so probably pulling the heads out would be a waste of time and messing up with the timing chain.
 

Last edited by chefro; Mar 17, 2011 at 03:15 AM.
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 06:45 AM
  #44  
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Wow, that sucks if it was the improper cap location that caused the failure. If they just replaced the tensioner seals and not the tensioner itself, there's no need to remove the caps or the cam. It's possible your shop didn't know this. I'd ask them if they took the caps off. If they did, ask for a partial or full refund.
 
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 06:07 PM
  #45  
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another question i have is about the oil prussure
on my cluster the oil prussre wasnt working and i belive they said it was the sensor/switch
i found it here
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ssure%20Switch
but the problem is i couldnt find it on the car. i found the sensor on the top of the oil pan close to where the special 3242 tool go but i doubt its this.
so does anyone know where is this thing and will the one in the link fit?
 
Old Mar 17, 2011 | 10:44 PM
  #46  
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also is this the engine assembly lube i should use when reassembling the cams?

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...artnumber=3010

if so how many of those should i get?

and what should i get to make the gaskets stick?

will be contacting the shop tomorrow i hope... ill update when i see what they say but i doubt that they will take the blame for it plus i cant prove it... but on the other hand i was already planing on paying for all this which i pretty much did (already got a new cam and am ordering some lifters now) so what ever i guess it goes to show that u should learn to work on ur car and do it urself save money and headaches...
 
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 12:11 AM
  #47  
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Either one. Since you order stuff from AutohausAz, look'em up in the "Miscellaneous Fluids/Treatments" section. CurilT is more expensive than the first one.
Or get some Permatex High temp RTV Sealant from the local stores, although I personally don't trust that thing anymore.
On my C4 both oil sensors are like this:
-

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Look for similar locations.
---------------------------------------------------------
That assembly lube is good. You only have to cover the moving parts in only one head, so I would assume 50 grams is plenty (it goes long ways). However, since is only $ 5.66 you can definitely get two and err on the safe side; although you can go to an AutoZone and get something like t h i s.
That's what I used when putting the heads back together on mine. I still have over half left. It is pretty much the same consistency and color as the Liqui Moly.
 
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 12:14 AM
  #48  
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Oh darn,I forgot to ask you just out of curiosity:
where did you find to buy the new camshaft from?
 
Old Mar 18, 2011 | 01:00 AM
  #49  
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thanks for all the info will go threw all of those lubes and such now and order somwthing
mmmm my wording was off lol by "new" i meant new used one, lol.
after alot of consideration i decided thats 400-500 for a new one against up to 100 for a used one means ill go and look for used and after a few days of searches i found like 5 different used ones on ebay mostly and some sites that are junkers and ended up getting one from ebay for 50 buks free shipping and it got here in like 3 days (they wanted 65 i ofered 50 they accepted...)
it looks fine not brand new off course but all the lobes looks like they should... will get pics of it later
i also broke a few teeth on the viscous fan clutch and was scared it will spin out of balance so i got a used one off ebay for 30+16 shipping

i just saw this on ecs
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-...ngine/Pulleys/

looks sexy but i dont know if in real life a few grams off of those pulleys will really make any noticeable gains
 
Old Mar 19, 2011 | 10:48 AM
  #50  
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Don't waste your money on sexy stuff. At your age you should still be able to get it for free... LOL
 

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