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New here... 2004 A6 2.7 questions...

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  #1  
Old 05-09-2010, 04:42 PM
chris_1001's Avatar
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Default New here... 2004 A6 2.7 questions...

Hi All,

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on a 2004 A6 2.7 with 74K on it tomorrow so I'm in a rush for knowledge...

I was looking the forum looking for some info, and not too much came up that i was hoping to see.

First, overall to the people who own them, how do you like it and are you satisfied?

Second, what should I look for before pulling the trigger on it?

Third, what should I do to it once I get it Maint. and service wise?

last, what are the common issues with this year/model?

I'm coming from BMW's, so I'm not up on the Audi's

THANKS in advance for ANY help!!!!!

Chris
 
  #2  
Old 05-09-2010, 04:43 PM
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BTW, it's an S-Line...
 
  #3  
Old 05-09-2010, 09:20 PM
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Hello, As you can see this is my 1st post. Iv been here two weeks just reading and had same questions. I hope this helps. It only a little info but i hope this helps. I found these in the sticky above. A good read when you have more time. cant wait to get my a6 2.7 or 3.2 just want the turbo but not the headache as many people are posting but more good then bad. So we will see. cya.


UOTE=Teutonic2.7T;692519]First of all this thread is awesome! much thanks to twinturbomew and crew for your good questions and keeping this thread alive.

My question for you'all goes:

I am currently looking to purchase an A6 2.7T @90K. The cost of the maintenence is daunting...and the dealer is already changing the timing belt because of ticking noises.

I just want my car to drive reliably... i am not looking to chip-it and really just want to use it as a comfortable commuter car since i fit in it well and enjoy the interior. should i still look into piggies??? replacement turbos?? I have drastically changed my driving style to non aggressive and try to drive in a way that preserves the car.. the engine and breaks. I am talking to the mechanic and based on what i've read here should i still hit him with the following check-up list?see below...


Replace Timing Belt along with the belt tensioner, water pump, pullies(?)and serp belt.
Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors
Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods
Replace Fuel Filter
Check vacuum Hoses
Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!!
Check Temp Sender for update (should be green)
Check cv Joints/boots
Check breaks and rotors
Check/replace The Oxyegen Sensors
Check Front Suspension Tie Rods/Control Rods
Replace Fuel Filter
Check vacuum Hoses
Check Turbos for Signs of Failure – or replace turbos!!
Check Temp Sender for update (should be green)
Check cv Joints/boots
Check breaks and rotors
[ol][/ol]
Would what would you add? what would you remove!? this is alot of money for me to shell-out for a car that hasn't even left the lot.

Little help

Thanks![/QUOTE]


This guys know his stuff just below

Originally Posted by formulagigi
hey
I suggest you do some searching as they are hundreds of threads that will help answer your questions.
But here're a few things
Get Piggy Pipes (www.vastperformance.com, talk to Prince or Kurt). They'll gut the pre cats and relocate the O2 bungs so no CEL or no issues to pass inspection. This mod will give you maybe an additional 20hp-20TQ (some say 30) when cobined with the chip. But it will also decrease the temprature behind the turbos which translates in more reliability.

A good combo of mods is APR Chip/Tune, Piggy Pipes, then have a local ship make you a catback. YOU'll get about 350hp ish and 400TQ (Crank)with 93 octane. that's easy bolt on perf mdos.... go stage 3 and you'll spend thousands more but will get 420-450AWHP.

then I would get Hawks HPS pads, Goodridge Stainless Steal brake lines.... better rotors if you have $.

Finally get HSport sway bars to decrease roll and dive.. you'll notice an immediate improvement in handling... complete with a set a of shocks and springs... various optons based on your driving needs... H&R or Eibach springs are popular... KOni yellows or FSDs or Billstein shocks are popular... Don't do springs only and don't do Coil Overs unless you track your A6 or drive aggressively in twisties very often.

For looks basics are RS6 lip spoiler, S6 door blades, lower suspension (Above), front grilles, debadge the trunk(free), tint, wheels....
For rims I would stick to 18's for a compromise of looks/handling/ride comfort especially if you live in an area with bad roads or/and you pick an aggressive suspension set up... 19's is the max, bogger looks silly and you'll be riding on rubber bands. go for a simple clean design and avoid chrome.... look for a reputable manufacturer/brand, avoid chinese wheels..
BUY a good tire or you may experience vibration, harshness and exessive wear...

have fun
Brice
 
  #4  
Old 05-10-2010, 12:58 PM
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Hi, I have the same exact car 2004 A6 2.7. I bought the car new and I would say the car has been very reliable. Only brakes and oil changes in 96,000 miles. I just replaced the timing belt, water pump and pulleys. From the looks of the timing belt I would say I could have done at least 10,000 miles more Coil packs just went bad dealer replace them at no charge. . One common problem is the drain under the battery make sure it is clear of leaves and twigs.

Good Luck
 

Last edited by cudafish; 05-10-2010 at 01:01 PM.
  #5  
Old 05-10-2010, 04:31 PM
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Thanks guys!!!!

I'm still awaiting to hear if they will take my offer, but I'm looking at a few other Audi's after work tonight..

I'll keep you posted, and feel free to add more advice to this thread...
 
  #6  
Old 05-10-2010, 04:37 PM
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I believe 2004 was the last year for the 2.7T. Reliability improved steadily from the early years according to Consumer Reports. The secret to any Audi is doing the required maintenance and avoid trying to use it as a muscle car. Plan on doing the timing belt between 80-90k. It is a sports, touring car -- heavy, with AWD, and not really built for jack rabbit starts/stops. Read the sticky at the beginning of the A6 forum. Most important is using full synthetic, changing it every 6-8k, and letting the car warm up and cool down before really working the turbos. Mine is a few hundred short of 170k on most oem parts (less clutch, flywheel, and alternator). I consider it reliable and it's still a blast to drive...cruises at 70-80+ effortlessly and is fantastic in snow.
 
  #7  
Old 05-10-2010, 08:26 PM
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Just bought one....spent $4k on wheels, trans filter/flush kit, timing kit with idlers, serpentine kit with tensioner, cabin/engine filters, orbital cut rotors and pads all the way around, tint, tail lights and wheels bearings (flanged)

Now it's my style and no more ticking from the heads...good for another 60k besides oil changes...which I use mobil 1 full synth 10-30w

always warm it up before moving, always cool it down before shutdown. 2-3mins both ways.

I LOVE this car, but it needs piggies and custom catback, rs6 body kit, vast chip (mild), new BOV's, and tip chip to 86 this god awful shifting delay.

next would be k04 turbos since mine show signs of heat damage from idiot owner not cooling it down before hopping out. Oil cooler would be nice too. oil hovers around 200-240deg....i would prefer 160-180 temps. also I'm building a huge new intercooler for the frontside with center outlet and meth injection for long pulls to 140+ when i give it to her on the highways when noone is around.

few more $k and I'll be happy with 400-440hp reliably... which can be done btw if your smart and do things right. boost controller/turbo timer is key here to keep it tame when you dont need it.

Buy it!!!! You'll love it! If you want a cheap car....buy a toyota (but not a possessed one)
 
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