Solution for A6 4.2 vacuum actuators, rubber bellows and link rods.
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Solution for A6 4.2 vacuum actuators, rubber bellows and link rods.
Solution for A6 4.2 vacuum actuators, rubber bellows and link rods
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Go to www.gruvenparts.com and order the intake manifold links measuring your old ones to make sure of the correct size. These are bulletproof and made from billet aluminum and unlike the crappy plastic ones on the 4.2's, will never break. The plastic nippled actuators that control the variable intake runners will seize up because once the link rods break they no longer move and carbon deposits build up along the shafts that move them. The shafts run from the front to the rear of the engine so you must lube both ends. The rear portion of the shaft is designed to accomodate a torx bit and can easily be manipulated using a suitable tool as you risk breaking it from the front by exerting too much pressure loosening the actuator. Also note that the front actuator can also be loosened using a smaller bit and I recommend loosening that one too. I removed my intake manifold to accomplish this more thoroughly but it is not necessary unless you wish to replace the intake manifold gasket. The rubber bellows (diaphragms) cannot be purchased individually and only come as an $800 kit (two bellows and two link rods) from the Stealership. Fortunately, the exact same bellows (diaphragms) were used on mid to late 90's Land Rover Discovery models to actuate the cruise control units and are available from that dealer for $100 each. I purchased two perfect used ones for $40 at a local Land Rover salvage yard. This is the easiest most cost effective solution to this problem and solves it permanently. Lastly, use Seafoam or warm water to decarbonize the manifold but you have to be extremely careful when introducing it through the vacuum inlet port. Then crack open a cold one and light one up...you're done.
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Go to www.gruvenparts.com and order the intake manifold links measuring your old ones to make sure of the correct size. These are bulletproof and made from billet aluminum and unlike the crappy plastic ones on the 4.2's, will never break. The plastic nippled actuators that control the variable intake runners will seize up because once the link rods break they no longer move and carbon deposits build up along the shafts that move them. The shafts run from the front to the rear of the engine so you must lube both ends. The rear portion of the shaft is designed to accomodate a torx bit and can easily be manipulated using a suitable tool as you risk breaking it from the front by exerting too much pressure loosening the actuator. Also note that the front actuator can also be loosened using a smaller bit and I recommend loosening that one too. I removed my intake manifold to accomplish this more thoroughly but it is not necessary unless you wish to replace the intake manifold gasket. The rubber bellows (diaphragms) cannot be purchased individually and only come as an $800 kit (two bellows and two link rods) from the Stealership. Fortunately, the exact same bellows (diaphragms) were used on mid to late 90's Land Rover Discovery models to actuate the cruise control units and are available from that dealer for $100 each. I purchased two perfect used ones for $40 at a local Land Rover salvage yard. This is the easiest most cost effective solution to this problem and solves it permanently. Lastly, use Seafoam or warm water to decarbonize the manifold but you have to be extremely careful when introducing it through the vacuum inlet port. Then crack open a cold one and light one up...you're done.
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Jan 23, 2023 11:47 PM
