Valley Pan Gasket; Head Gaskets
Then that would be different from what I experienced. I was thinking when you let your foot off the accelerator and just cruise with it. No load at all. The only time I felt anything was under acceleration but for the entire time as I accelerated.
Got time to get back to you guys.
When I was saying that on "kickdown" the vibration virtually (virtually because I'm sure it's still there, but the hard load sort of smoothens it out) disappears, I was refering to where you depress the acceleration pedal harder and feel that "resistance" point Audi has. I don't want to talk non-sense and say that all the Audis have it, but I never experienced it in any car we have owned up to now. I thought was an Audi-specific feature.
Anyway, as I was reading about "automatic transmission kickdown" I really don't think that my 1995 actually downshifts since it only has 4-speed, because I would feel the shift, but the feature is there.
So yes, the vibration can be felt mostly at light load AND at various RPMs, as I was saying. It does it in between 40 and 55 mph, and then again just past 60 mph (probably 62) up to 68mph, as I tried to get the speed to 70.
If I use the kickdown to get it from let's say 55 to 70, the vibration sort of disappears. I can also feel the vibration at idle, as I described previously.
It idles normal, but as I revv it up, at certain RPMs I feel the vibration through the steering wheel, and I hear it.
I'm not sure if you can really understand what the hell I am yapping about if you cannot experience it, Jim.
And to get back to load/torque and answer to Jack, actually no - it doesn't smoothen out if I let off. It vibrates pretty much the same in the same RPM ranges correspondent with the speeds I was mentioning above.
As it gets under 40 mph, then it smoothens out as I would let's say coast to a stop light/sign.
I'll have some time Friday to scan it again.
As a matter of fact, in my way back this evening, it did throw a CEL. When I got in town, I had to stop to the grocery store to buy some stuff. When I restarted it, the CEL was gone... WTF?
I went next to the gas station to get cigarettes, and then washed her. As I pulled in the backyard, I felt that the engine hums pretty nice. As soon as I put it in Park, I revved it up to 4500 RPMS and it had no vibration...
This car is really playing with my mind.
I'll see tomorrow if the vibration is back or she decided to be nice at least one day.
One thing is for sure though, I have some "metal rattle" sound in bank 2 (driver side) - I used the screwdriver listening method. I don't have a chain, I don;t have a chain tensioner. The noise comes up on cold starts - I can hear it from inside the cabin, comes and goes a few times as the car warms up, and then can be heard only if you "scope" the valve cover.
Could it really be a lifter that makes the noise?
That's what I had to share for this episode, guys. I start hating this saga....LOL
Nevertheless, T H A N K S for keeping me sane.
When I was saying that on "kickdown" the vibration virtually (virtually because I'm sure it's still there, but the hard load sort of smoothens it out) disappears, I was refering to where you depress the acceleration pedal harder and feel that "resistance" point Audi has. I don't want to talk non-sense and say that all the Audis have it, but I never experienced it in any car we have owned up to now. I thought was an Audi-specific feature.
Anyway, as I was reading about "automatic transmission kickdown" I really don't think that my 1995 actually downshifts since it only has 4-speed, because I would feel the shift, but the feature is there.
So yes, the vibration can be felt mostly at light load AND at various RPMs, as I was saying. It does it in between 40 and 55 mph, and then again just past 60 mph (probably 62) up to 68mph, as I tried to get the speed to 70.
If I use the kickdown to get it from let's say 55 to 70, the vibration sort of disappears. I can also feel the vibration at idle, as I described previously.
It idles normal, but as I revv it up, at certain RPMs I feel the vibration through the steering wheel, and I hear it.
I'm not sure if you can really understand what the hell I am yapping about if you cannot experience it, Jim.
And to get back to load/torque and answer to Jack, actually no - it doesn't smoothen out if I let off. It vibrates pretty much the same in the same RPM ranges correspondent with the speeds I was mentioning above.
As it gets under 40 mph, then it smoothens out as I would let's say coast to a stop light/sign.
I'll have some time Friday to scan it again.
As a matter of fact, in my way back this evening, it did throw a CEL. When I got in town, I had to stop to the grocery store to buy some stuff. When I restarted it, the CEL was gone... WTF?
I went next to the gas station to get cigarettes, and then washed her. As I pulled in the backyard, I felt that the engine hums pretty nice. As soon as I put it in Park, I revved it up to 4500 RPMS and it had no vibration...
This car is really playing with my mind.

I'll see tomorrow if the vibration is back or she decided to be nice at least one day.
One thing is for sure though, I have some "metal rattle" sound in bank 2 (driver side) - I used the screwdriver listening method. I don't have a chain, I don;t have a chain tensioner. The noise comes up on cold starts - I can hear it from inside the cabin, comes and goes a few times as the car warms up, and then can be heard only if you "scope" the valve cover.
Could it really be a lifter that makes the noise?
That's what I had to share for this episode, guys. I start hating this saga....LOL
Nevertheless, T H A N K S for keeping me sane.
So that's different from what I was thinking.
Basically your vibration goes away at WOT.
Have you tried throttle body alignment yet?
Might want to try that and check the Throttle body sensor like Jim was saying.
I swear you either need to be a doctor or a mechanic to own one of these cars. I'm thinking of promoting an Audi owners kit. It would have a pair of sunglasses with a solid spot that would prevent you from seeing that CEL!!!
and if you order now I'll throw in these four air inflated cushions to install under the drivers seat that will virtually eliminate all vibrations.... 1800JACKMUP.... Operators are standing by
Basically your vibration goes away at WOT.
Have you tried throttle body alignment yet?
Might want to try that and check the Throttle body sensor like Jim was saying.
I swear you either need to be a doctor or a mechanic to own one of these cars. I'm thinking of promoting an Audi owners kit. It would have a pair of sunglasses with a solid spot that would prevent you from seeing that CEL!!!
and if you order now I'll throw in these four air inflated cushions to install under the drivers seat that will virtually eliminate all vibrations.... 1800JACKMUP.... Operators are standing by
I'm not sure if you can really understand what the hell I am yapping about if you cannot experience it, Jim.

Your tranny does downshift if you press hard enough. Not sure what you mean by the 'resistance' point.. but what your prolly feeling is the tranny's torque converter coming outta lock-up. That or the manifold change-over at 4200rpm.
it doesn't smoothen out if I let off. It vibrates pretty much the same in the same RPM ranges correspondent with the speeds I was mentioning above.
As it gets under 40 mph, then it smoothens out as I would let's say coast to a stop light/sign.
As it gets under 40 mph, then it smoothens out as I would let's say coast to a stop light/sign.
It could be the lifter making the noise sure enough...
Jack, I can't do throttle body alignment because mine is not "drive-by-wire". My darling has a plain old acceleration cable.
The CEL actually is first time when it popped up, so it didn't really give me that mouch trouble to warrant the purchase of the Anti-CEL glasses. But I'll get the cushions...to craddle me better for the pushin' ...oops, I mean for the WOT
Jim, maybe your car doesn't have that feature. From the definitions I come across, kick-down is explained as "most automatic transmissions would kick down only if the accelerator was pressed all the way to the floor"
That's true for most cars; in our Elantra is the same.
Well, this Audi has some sort of a "resistance point", where you feel like the pedal counter forces your foot, but for that to occur you don't have to press all the way to the floor.
Let's say I drive behind another at 65 mph (just a given number). 100 yds away I see that continuous line will start, so I want to pass that car before that section of the road. I just slightly let the foot off the pedal for a fraction of a second then press down harder. That's when I feel that resistance point (it is pretty much like feeling a wall with your foot) of the kick-down, and the car just starts pulling like 20 oxens...However, if it is true that downshifts, it would be normal to upshift back when the "pull" is over and settling to a certain speed. Well, I don't feel any upshifting, Maybe I'm just insensitive...
Anyway, I guess I'll buy a set of new lifters in November and open her up again. By the way, it was the other head's camshaft that I removed. So I guess I installed it back right.
The CEL actually is first time when it popped up, so it didn't really give me that mouch trouble to warrant the purchase of the Anti-CEL glasses. But I'll get the cushions...to craddle me better for the pushin' ...oops, I mean for the WOT

Jim, maybe your car doesn't have that feature. From the definitions I come across, kick-down is explained as "most automatic transmissions would kick down only if the accelerator was pressed all the way to the floor"
That's true for most cars; in our Elantra is the same.
Well, this Audi has some sort of a "resistance point", where you feel like the pedal counter forces your foot, but for that to occur you don't have to press all the way to the floor.
Let's say I drive behind another at 65 mph (just a given number). 100 yds away I see that continuous line will start, so I want to pass that car before that section of the road. I just slightly let the foot off the pedal for a fraction of a second then press down harder. That's when I feel that resistance point (it is pretty much like feeling a wall with your foot) of the kick-down, and the car just starts pulling like 20 oxens...However, if it is true that downshifts, it would be normal to upshift back when the "pull" is over and settling to a certain speed. Well, I don't feel any upshifting, Maybe I'm just insensitive...

Anyway, I guess I'll buy a set of new lifters in November and open her up again. By the way, it was the other head's camshaft that I removed. So I guess I installed it back right.
Last edited by chefro; Oct 1, 2009 at 02:24 AM.
My Bentley lists the DTC table in SAE, not VAG.
For a convertion table see: http://www.europeantransmissions.com...VW/VWCODES.PDF
VAG 00549 - Fuel Consumption Signal - ? SAE
VAG 00549 - Load Signal Stuck Off (RPM Signal missing) - SAE P1771
VAG 00549 - Load Signal Stuck On (RPM Signal missing) - SAE P1772
This is a DTC for the transmission, not the engine.
Per Bentley, it may be a loose or malfunctioning connection between the engine control module and the transmission control module.
If you follow the Bentley instructions for using VAG-COM, you should be able to find out what is wrong. Up to 1995 the transmission control module had 55 pins. During 1996 the 88 pin module was phased in.
There are two different instructions for the 55 pin module, for using VAG-COM:
02 Transmissions, Read Measuring Block 08, Display Group 000, Display Field 4
Approx. 08.95:
02 Transmissions, Read Measuring Block 08, Display Group 001, Display Field 2
For a convertion table see: http://www.europeantransmissions.com...VW/VWCODES.PDF
VAG 00549 - Fuel Consumption Signal - ? SAE
VAG 00549 - Load Signal Stuck Off (RPM Signal missing) - SAE P1771
VAG 00549 - Load Signal Stuck On (RPM Signal missing) - SAE P1772
This is a DTC for the transmission, not the engine.
Per Bentley, it may be a loose or malfunctioning connection between the engine control module and the transmission control module.
If you follow the Bentley instructions for using VAG-COM, you should be able to find out what is wrong. Up to 1995 the transmission control module had 55 pins. During 1996 the 88 pin module was phased in.
There are two different instructions for the 55 pin module, for using VAG-COM:
02 Transmissions, Read Measuring Block 08, Display Group 000, Display Field 4
Approx. 08.95:
02 Transmissions, Read Measuring Block 08, Display Group 001, Display Field 2
Last edited by a6hcw; Oct 2, 2009 at 01:34 AM. Reason: Added VAG-COM information
Thanks, hcw. I had that code a few months back when I first got the VagCom hooked up. For now, I just cleared all the codes and when I'll scan it next I want to see if it came back.
There's something wrong for sure, and I suspect that Safety Netral Switch for my Back-up lights.
As for that "Consumption Signal" I'll try to follow those instructions and see if I can come up with something.
THANKS again.
I hate to ask - where is the tranny control module located?
(is it on the front, passenger side under the carpet?)
There's something wrong for sure, and I suspect that Safety Netral Switch for my Back-up lights.
As for that "Consumption Signal" I'll try to follow those instructions and see if I can come up with something.
THANKS again.
I hate to ask - where is the tranny control module located?
(is it on the front, passenger side under the carpet?)
The ECM and TCM are located in a plastic electronic control box under the rug at the front of the pasenger footwell. The door sill has a removable cover which hides a few screws. The footwell cover has another hidden screw.
It is very common for the previous owners to forget to clean the two plenum drains and have water get into this control box and the terminals for the ECM and TCM.
Hence, you may try cleaning the terminals with an electronic cleaner.
However, first try VAG-COM to remove the VAG 00549 code, then check a few days later to see if it returned.
Also, the battery should be disconnected and the ignition turned off when working on the ECM and TCM terminals.
It is very common for the previous owners to forget to clean the two plenum drains and have water get into this control box and the terminals for the ECM and TCM.
Hence, you may try cleaning the terminals with an electronic cleaner.
However, first try VAG-COM to remove the VAG 00549 code, then check a few days later to see if it returned.
Also, the battery should be disconnected and the ignition turned off when working on the ECM and TCM terminals.
The ECM and TCM are located in a plastic electronic control box under the rug at the front of the pasenger footwell. The door sill has a removable cover which hides a few screws. The footwell cover has another hidden screw.
It is very common for the previous owners to forget to clean the two plenum drains and have water get into this control box and the terminals for the ECM and TCM.
Hence, you may try cleaning the terminals with an electronic cleaner.
However, first try VAG-COM to remove the VAG 00549 code, then check a few days later to see if it returned.
Also, the battery should be disconnected and the ignition turned off when working on the ECM and TCM terminals.
It is very common for the previous owners to forget to clean the two plenum drains and have water get into this control box and the terminals for the ECM and TCM.
Hence, you may try cleaning the terminals with an electronic cleaner.
However, first try VAG-COM to remove the VAG 00549 code, then check a few days later to see if it returned.
Also, the battery should be disconnected and the ignition turned off when working on the ECM and TCM terminals.
If somehow water got to the ECM and TCM terminals, might have happened with the previous owner.
I removed all the codes after posting them and I'll scan the car again in a few days when I have a day off.
I appreciate your great info, hcw. Thanks again.


