I didn't want to open another thread since my problem seems to be somewhat the same.

A while back I had the error:

17942 - camshaft timing adj. Bank 2 (n208): short to plus
P1534 - 001 - upper limit exceeded

I checked the solenoid and the resistance was ~6 ohms, where it should fall between 10 to 18 ohms. So, now I changed the solenoid and the new codes are:

17755 - Camshaft Position Sensor 2 (G163) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correl.
P1347 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent - MIL ON
16405 - Bank 2: Camshaft A (Intake): Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0021 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

I changed the Camshaft Position Sensor and the problem remains the same. It seems that its a common problem that the mechanical camshaft adjuster fails. Doing research I came to conclude that it fails most common in two ways:
1. the tensioner pads wear out or break
2. the adjuster gets jammed

I did not open the engine yet as I would like to hear your input.

A new tensioner costs anywhere from 550 online to 700 at the dealer. I found a place where I can buy just the tensioner pads from the adjuster for ~$60. My concern is in the case of the camshaft adjuster being stuck, can it be taken out to be cleaned/freed and reused? My engine does not make the 'diesel engine sound' as people called it caused by the chain vibrating (the pads being worn or broken). Therefore I assume that the adjuster is stuck. I have over 210 000 miles on the engine. The higher the miles the others will get on their cars this might be a common problem. It would be nice to find a good and reasonable solution to this issue. If nothing else, cost efficient.

 

I'll let you know if changing mine fixed the problem. My car has 190k and the tensioner looks ok, the pads are intact but have some grooves worn into them. When rotating, the tensioner does move up/down.

I don't know if that's the same as working (unstuck) when the car is runnning though.

My solenoid was totally dead and I changed that 1st, taking it off the new tensioner that didn't make a change. The new one tests at 14 ohms.

Mine's never made any noise and I've only had the one code. Yours looks like it's getting out of time from the codes you posted.

I don't know if there's any difference with the tensioners on the D3 4.2's or not. I think those engines are pretty much the same. Off topic....how's the transmission at 190k? An '04 or '05 will probably be my next A8 now that the prices have come down. I've heard the
D3 transmissions are a lot better.

I changed my wife's two year ago at 160k (same car I'm working on now). I bought back my totaled 2000 from the insurance company for $1,300. That had a dealer replaced transmission in 2003 with all the updates. That car is long gone but it's the gift that keeps on giving. That's why I had an extra head to practice removing the tensioner on the bench.


Bob

 

I wound up doing the whole TB job including the water pump, I changed the thermostat last year.

Fired it up and no misfires and ran great. I took it for about a ten mile ride and the CEL stayed off. Before I changed the tensioner, I would get maybe a mile or two after a reset. I need to put more miles on it but so far it looks like the tensioner replacement solved my problem.

I'm still not sure "what" failed. Most of the posts mention noise and pad failure. It doesn't seem like my code was the typical one either.

I thought long and hard about ordering another tensioner and doing the pass side too. I think there's a shot at changing that one with the belt attached because it's on the other end of the cam. I'll keep an eye on it, I don't think I'm replacing it now.

On your car with 210k miles, I would probably just change it. Seems like a pretty good chance that is your problem and it's not a bad thing to do anyway. That's my attitude. If the CEL comes back at least I can rule it out now.

I'll post back again once I get a couple of hundred miles on it.


Bob

 

Yes the other bank you can replace pretty easilly by just removing all the cam caps and lifting both cams, the belt shouldn't come off the end of the intake cam if its still tensioned to the pulley. I would go ahead and replace it if you had wear on the pads of the other tensioner, it only takes a couple millimeters of wear on the pads to throw a code. I wish the pads were replaceable, but thats not how audi rolls i guess.

P.S. There is a good chance the CEL will come back on at least once, if it does clear it again then go on a solid 20 minute drive to re-set the readiness codes in the ECM.

 

You on the other hand don't have a bad cam tensioner, the code 17755 means the camshafts and crank shaft aren't in time, meaning the timing belt has extra slack in it, probably due to a bad timing belt tensioner. Very dangerous situation if not fixed now, i would refrain from driving it until the entire timing belt job can be done.

 

"I wish the pads were replaceable, but thats not how audi rolls i guess."

I'm not sure if we can post names and phone numbers here but I called (they don't have it available on the website, just call them) theimportexperts 800-572-3681 and they sell just the pads from the tensioners. The price for the pads (per set of 2) for my 04 engine code BFM were around $60.

Thank you Nate for the advice on the timing belt tensioner as a possible cause. I will take your advice and look at it asap.

Bob - my transmission holds up alright so far. I haven't changed the fluid in it as of yet and I know I should. First I have to get the engine back in shape.

 

ok, I've put about 80 miles and no CEL (thanks for the heads up if it does come back on), no leaks or weird noises.

I figured the tensioner would compensate for any pad wear so now I know why it was failing. It did seem like the plunger underneath the solenoid was tight, definately not as smooth as the other used tensioner from my old engine.

I'll start to look around for the pass side and do that one too.

thanks for all your help, I'm going to take a look at my car now (same year A8), I'll create another post.

Bob

 

I have a 98 a8 car will start and immediately die,repalced fuel pump,filter,and still have same problem,i have codes po102,p1509,po327,could it be the crank sensor?

 

P0102 is a MAF code..bad or dirty MAF causes stalling.
P1509 is idle control valve...faulty could cause fast idle or (you guessed it) stalling at idle.
P0327 is a knock sensor (ignition timing) code...would likely cause decreased power on acceleration or knocking (like low octane gas) on acceleration.

Engine speed sensor should trip it's own code or other codes related to timing.

I'd start with your idle control valve and MAF for stalling problems.

 

I cleaned iac,and unpluged maf no difference,when i say it stalls it doesn't even rev up just bogs and dies sometimes you can tap on acc fast and it will stay idled a second but usually it's one quick crank up then shuts off instantly,could it be the cam/crank sensor or ecu it also has a open exhaust.thnks.