2000-2003 D2 for sure...don't know if it's improved on '04 up D3(?)

If you have a little chain noise on cold start-up, then no improvement. The start up noise is NOT a failed (in needed function) tensioner...more of an intermittent Audi flaw in an attempt to stop start-up noise. No specific mileages for this "noise" to start.
If a tensioner "fails" by breaking plastic chain pads off (100K miles or higher in general), the pads must be replaced immediately or chain will eat it's way through the tensioner in short order and lead to catastrophic valve train damage. Pad gone leads to constant dragging chain noise and pads only can be replaced, but NOT by Audi dealer..they will only change entire tensioner at $550 plus for part alone.
A tensioner that has failed in it's valve timing adjustment function has to be completely replaced, even if pads are fine. iF this happens timing code(s) will appear, esp codes such as "timing over-retarded", "timing over-advanced", etc...
Here's a link to my recent replacement of the pads only (tensioner must be removed), after one shattering on the passenger's side of my '01 A8. The pads become brittle with age and eventually (apparently) the usual start up rattle, VERY common on 00-03 D2's, finishes off the pads that have become brittle and cracked with age:

quattroworld.com Forums: Replacing cam chain tensioner and/or pads on bank #1 of 40V motor (shorter cut)...

 

Great link in the above, in the link you mention that you bought the plastic cam pads on ebay. I searched and hit nothing, plenty of other cam stuff but no pads. Do you remember the site?

Thanks

PS the same start up noise on the D3 from cold. Must be the chain.

 

Ebay Motors under "Audi chain tensioner pads"....

All the same fit for any VVT Audi/VW (at least though '03 and I think later models), just different prices:

Audi chain tensioner pads | eBay

I bought these from this seller...had em in a few days:

00-03 04 Audi A6 2.7L Turbo Chain Tensioner Pads #C062 | eBay


The locking pins in the drawing are what Audi added in an attempt to stop start up rattle, which are supposed to hold more tension on the chain (already spring loaded, so chain won't jump time..just make a second or 2 of noise) until oil pressure builds...works on some and not on others(?).

 

Silverd2 or Auditech79

I have undone the driver side camshafts to replace the tensioner, looking at the bentley manual you have to replace all the bearing cap bolts? did you do that? kinda of expensive what are they made of.

I had a job to get 5 five them out, eventually had to cut them as they rounded out.

Just asking....leaning towards changing them all at $2.50 a pop.

Thanks

 

I did NOT replace them and feel very confident about that. They are relatively low torque bolts screwing into a relatively soft aluminum hole in the head...so almost no stretch, as with something like an axle bolt (I always replace very high torque critical bolts like those).

But, as I said in my writeup, be super careful NOT to over-torque them.
As I understand, the early D3 engines (before 2007 FSi) are pretty similar (exact?) same design as 40V D2's, in that area and cap bolts require just barely snug (5nm) plus 1/4 turn tighter (or a hair less...NOT over that!).

I highly recommend, once each camshaft is fully installed, but NOT torqued down the 90 degree turns yet, to back off each and every one and re-snug (one at a time...don't back off all at once...you'll be back where you started) before the final 1/4 turn (or less!).

From experience, I am convinced the few cap bolts used to initially "pull" the cams down into place against valve spring tension, are already at a tighter pre-torque value than the ones that are installed afterwards. Considering the relatively small bolts screwing into aluminum holes, the potential for stripping the head a very real concern. I felt like and feel good about erring on the side of a hair looser over any tighter...past a certain torque does not help with permanence of the connection.

 

Silverd2,

I ended up changing the whole camshaft adjuster, looking at the old one after taking off the tool the bottom fell out with the spring, and the top piston does not move. I couldn't get it back together the resistance was simply quite high, when you replaced the plastic end bits did you have any issues getting it back together?