Can not imagine why it would be a cam or engine speed (crank) sensor. Don't know for afact that it's impossible, but you should have a code. An engine will run, even way out of time and trip a cam code: adjuster code, cam out of time code, etc.
The engine speed sensor should trip a code, too.
Iac should read 7-11 ohms across the elec connections on the valve.
I'd check all fuses and fuel pump relay, too. The MAF is fused.

Just a guess, but if engine was being shut off because of a timing signal (cam or crank) it should certainly record a code for it. The process that shut it off would record something. It really sounds like a failure in the fuel/air delivery (or "possible"? loss of spark)...and the codes you have indicate that. The knock sensor code is an ignition timing issue...knock sensors tend to retard timing to prevent knocking...a severe malfunction "might" put ignition timing so far off, it causes stalling, BUT I've never heard of it. Knock sensors problems are usually an acceleration issue.

 

even with the maf and iac unpluged a car will still rev up somewhat,this car just shuts down,the alldata protocal is to check ess and I did it has a speratic voltage from .o5 to 3 to 0 to 1 etc,also a car will not crank with the ess bad,and if it's going faulty or reading a wrong signal it can shut a car down after start up,so I'm going to try another one and see,this car is a real piece of work,no wonder I've never owned one.








Tim

 

The facelift D2's are reputed to be more reliable than earlier models. I've never had any of these prblems with mine ('01) and know many who say the same. Many times, on earlier models, problems are caused by non-mechanic botched repairs by previous owners(?).

 

I have alot of questions that you should be able to
answer. The adjuster pads are broken into little
bitty pieces, should l replace the entire adjusters
with 125k on the clock or just the pads ? How do
l test the solenoids ? This is my codes:
Monday,23,August,2010,20:21:01:02836
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.0

Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Control Module Part Number: 4D0 907 560 AL
Component and/or Version: 4.2L V8/5V G 0001
Software Coding: 06753
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000
Additional Info: WAUFL54D6YN008188 AUZ7Z0X1249270
VCID: 70E12B6B1ACB


1 Fault Found:

16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal
P0341 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: 0110 1101

please help !!!

 

At this point, testing the solenoids is almost irrelevant, but all you can do is an Ohm reading across the poles...should read 10-18 ohms, but this is no indication of whether the cam adjuster is operating properly hydraulically and mechanically....only a running engine and diagnostic will confirm that.

You apparently already have the valve cover(s) off and have found broken chain pads. If you are doing the work yourself and are trying to save every penny or just want to unload the car, maybe you could get away with changing the pads only, although the labor (whether yours or paid mechanic) will be equal...and if you don't already know, it is major labor to get to the point of replacing entire adjuster or just pads...same procedure. PLUS there is no way of knowing that the pads alone were the problem, until the engine is completely reassembled and running.

If it was mine and I was even gonna keep the car another year, I would probably replace the entire adjuster....most especially if I was paying someone else's labor, because if you're wrong in assuming pads only, you're in for all that labor again. Yes the adjusters are expensive...the only way I would go with pads only would be if it was just a project car I was tinkering with, I was doing all the work and enjoyed the disassembly. For daily driver, I would repair it fully.

The code you got was a for a cam position sensor on the passengers side (bank #1)...doesn't mean that the sensor's bad...more likely the timing reading it got with broken chain pad(s), which would be way off most likely. I'd do the adjuster repair, clear codes and if position sensor is bad too (unlikely), it is a much cheaper part and infinitely easier to replace.

PLUS...if the pads are broken into pieces, I would want to remove the oil pan, check the oil pick-up strainer and possibly flush the motor to get all the pieces out...there's a good chance some have made their way downward.

 

so how do l check compression if the engine wont
run ? or should l put everything back together
then check for compression the regular way ?
l'm pretty sure that l've bent some valves
though l'm not sure. timing was way off
and l attempted to crank the motor.

 

Valves usually only get bent at running speed when either timing belt breaks (most common cause) or internal chain has jumped WAY off time, then only intake valves.
Cranking only did not necessarily hurt anything...at low oil pressure and very slow speed, piston contact can be absorbed by hyrauilic lifters. No way to tell for sure without disassemble (at least intake manifold off, to look at intakes)..or chance a running compression check (not recommended if you suspect damage)...and NO WAY would I put it back together or run it at all, if you haven't at least replaced broken chain pads and cleaned out the debris!.

 

l got most of the pieces out, surely there are some that l didn't see or could not get to. l want to save as much money as possible as l will be doing all the work however it is not a daily, l have another daily driver. l like the 8 too much to drive everyday, l save it for special occasions only like when l just want to "get away" l'd like to move the cams, replace the pads and put everything back in place. l won the car on ebay for 5500, went to NY to pick it up, no problems. back to dallas, the check engine light brought me alot of codes:

16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16685 - Cylinder 1: Misfire Detected
P0301 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00 - -
16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16688 - Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
P0304 - 35-00 - -
16689 - Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected
P0305 - 35-00 - -
16691 - Cylinder 7: Misfire Detected
P0307 - 35-00 - -
16692 - Cylinder 8: Misfire Detected
P0308 - 35-00 - -



17748 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incor. Correlation
P1340 - 35-00 - -
17927 - Camshaft Adjustment; Bank 1: Malfunction
P1519 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent



16816 - Main Catalyst; Bank 2: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0432 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16826 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Small Leak
P0442 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent



Readiness: 0000 0000



l replaced all the coils and all but one code was gone, the incorrect correlation code. the previous owner mentioned in his listing that the timing was done at 99k. l bought the car at 112k and its at 125 now. l replaced one cv boot and did the oil cooler pipe. now l would like to know does valve tdc and crank(engine) "always" mean that the engine will be "on" time when all the marks are lined up and the crank is at tdc cylinder 5 ? if so, that would be very genius on the germans if they designed it that way- very simple.

........... so l'll do just the pads and see what l come up with. do l very necessarily need to remove the cam pulleys ? also, is it entirely necessary to lift both cams ? lift one cam, replace the pads, put it all back together seems simple enough although l could be missing something very obvious. my concern is that maybe the adjusters were never totally at fault in the first place, maybe the shop who did the tb at 99k didn't line everything up perfectly or the tb tensioner was not replaced, this assumption is by the code that is there. meanwhile the pads are toast and made things worse which threw more codes. all these are assumptions based on the codes and what l see mechanically.

tia, you guys are absolutely the best for owning these cars and doing your own work, sinful to let someone else do the work when you can do it yourself especially when the price for labor is ridiculous!

 

Yes, if crank is at TDC #5 and cam pulleys are lined up (large holes pointing at each other and all 4 holes dead level with each other), then the belt timing is right. Timing marks on the internal chain gears should all be lined up with marks on the head too...which they would, unless something was way off. The adjusters change the timing over the rpm range...intake in relation to exhaust to keep up the torque curve. So timing on the intake cams can change a little and would change a lot if something jumped or broke, but exhaust cam is connected directly to the outside cam belt pulley.
I believe you must remove cam belt pulley to free up exhaust cam and lift both cams to change adjuster or pads...don't see away around that. A8CT has just done this recently, at then start of this same thread. If you don't have the Bentley CD Rom, it has a really thorough step be step on cam adjuster RR...you'll have to completely remove it to replace pads, as far as I can tell.

 

yes, l have the bentley and elsa both as well as Ross-Tech. l have both the cam lock tool and the crankshaft locking pin also. wondering if l actually need the pulley puller. wondering if the clapping on startup is because of the pads being worn(broken). then thats only til it runs for like 15 seconds then it gradually goes away. will l have to r/r the cam seals ?