As SilverD2 states, there really isn't anything that goes wrong with the pump housing. There are two special tools which make the job easier but you can probbaly get away without them.

1) special wrench to remove the black locking ring. A screwdriver and hammer should work here.

2) There are two holes in the top of the fuel sender. You need to rig up "something" or get the tool to remove it. It's reverse rotation and just needs a 1/8 - 1/4 turn and then pulls up.

Need the Bentley for sure.


Bob

 

I'm scheduled to recieve my VDO pump in today from "worldcarparts" in the UK today, I'll be installing it tonight or tomorrow with assistance from my mechanic at his garage. I'm going to try to take some photos if he doesn't complete it before I get there. I'm just replacing just the pump, not the housing, anyone know where I can find the fuel filter? thought I'd ask since I was stopping by, I'll run a search in the meantime.

 

At an Audi dealer of course (most expensive route)...not likely to find it an auto parts store, unless you're close to ECS Tuning.

Online:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...el_filter.html

http://www.europartsdirect.com/epc-items.asp

 

I was able to find our filter at NAPA.

Bob

 

Ah..good deal. Thought it might be a little too odd to find there.
In stock...or did they have to order it?

 

So, after I replaced the pump and put everything back in, it started right up! Up until u give it some gas, then it dies. Seems like it's not sealing, all the rubber seals looked like they were in good shape, but then again I'm not sure what they looked like before. $160 is what Audi charged me, supposed to have them in 2 days, I'll keep u guys posted. Thanks for the video, it helped out tremendously in getting the pump out to replace. Any other reasons why it will idle but not rev besides the tank not building enough pressure due to bad seals?

 

If it's not sealing, you should get a "leak" code.
Your leak detection pump runs a leak test every time you start the car, then rechecks itself, including the LDP itself.
If you're not getting a leak code, could be something else.

 

P.S. The leak detection would apply to outside leaks, like the large sealing ring on gas tank, etc...but not necessarily for inside leaks.

 

I got my car back today, finally!! Turns out it was the seals, I let it run for approx 6 hrs no problem, bought a 2 gallon gas tank, filled it, now I'm trying to drive it below half tank to make sure the other side is picking up. I'll probably get tere tomorrow. It's true what they say in the videos, it's almost impossible to salvage the old seals and gaskets. Now it's time to replace the power steering pump, it's making a whining noise. Driver side front suspension is barely clunking too, I'm guessing it's the control arm links?

 

I'm LS1Guy and can't remember my password... The videos were great and I was able to put everything back in. Is there ANY way to ensure the assembly is properly seated without buying the fancy scoping tool? I tried to start it up and its throwing the [manual says] "Malfunction Indicator Light" code. I'm assuming that means I didn't seat it correctly but since I won't be able to give it another try until tomorrow, i figured I'd ask before dropping god knows how much on that scope.


Thanks for any help