Ah..forgot. On a 97 model the diagnosic port may be hidden. Trust me...pull out your ashtray on the center console and look for a little pop-off cover hiding the port.

 

well hello there all. i was able to make it all the way back to the maryland dc area. what i found out is that if i have my heater or ac on the fuel smell was gone. from everywhere. couldn't smell a thing. i also for some dumb reason tried to open the moonroof which was not working and it opened. was really smooth. i wasnt able to get that sensor out to replace it. have the new one. any advice on removal of the old one.

 

Either your car is haunted OR you're just makin all this up

The fuel smell going away from "everywhere" with or without AC/Heater makes absolutely no sense....but if it works, I dunno(?)

About the sensor: Don't know if it'll do anything for your problem, but I'll help anyway. Do you get a normal warm up reading on your gauge...like up to the first thick mark and stays there?
Go to this link and look at post #5...it has an illustration showing where the sensor is...you'll have to move at least the intake tube to get to it. Click on the link in that post...it will show what the clip that holds the sensor in place looks like. Slide a flat head screwdriver in the end and carefully pry out to the side. Careful in and out...don't break it (maybe a new came with the sensor?). You might lose a little coolant when you pop the sensor out...it should pull straight out when the clip is removed. COLD motor when you do this...check coolant level later and top off if necessary...ONLY use the right coolant: Pink, red or purple "G-12". No matter what anyone tells you OR ANY label says, DO NOT mix other coolants with G-12...it will turn coolant to a thick brown sludge and require an entire cooling system flush...NO KIDDING, OK?

https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=159902


Good luck and keep us updated....this is a great book and I can't wait to read what happens next

 

yeah dude, the car is crazy. the fuel smell is just not there when the heater/ac is on. the weirdest thing ever. i tried to replace the sensor yesterday. i located it and attempted to remove it. i pulled the plug/wires from the sensor. it did not have the clip on it. when i removed the plug in there was quite a bit of engine fluid on/in. i attempted to remove the sensor by hand. no luck. didn't have any sockets or wrenches that i could get into that crazy tight place. about an hr later i quit. i cleaned the plug in part and the sensor the best that i could and plugged it all back in. tomorrow is gonna be attempt #2. keep your fingers crossed for me. i will make sure to use the right coolant. thanks again. i will say the car rides nice on the highway. hahaha

 

Maybe a different connection in a '97(?)....I only speak 21st century Audi ...mine's an '01.

They only show one kind in the 97-03 Bentley manual.

Does the sensor have a hex top? ...should be smooth round and new sensor should have included new clip & o-ring.

If the one in the car is smooth round and you can see a slot where a clip could have fit, it should pull right out....maybe alittle twist action to free it up?

Coolant leak there would indicate the clip missing.

 

So...this is where we stand now. Changed the coolant temp sensor. Didn't work. Still doesn't start warm. Gonna change fuel filter tom. Any other suggestions. Don't want to but really might have to take it to a specialist.

 

Really doubt that changing the fuel filter is gonna do anything...rarely actually needed.
Back to reading the codes, if you can.

Has it ever stalled when warm? ...sometimes indication of MAF (mass air flow) sensor problem...maybe even without stalling?

If fuel pump was installed wrong, it'll take a specialist or advanced amatuer (who's worked on one successfully) to correct it. Failed fuel pump usually don't wait for warm condition to fail, but something to try: If you have a gas can, add about 1/2 gallon a gas when it's in crank-no-start mode...the system is designed to be primed this way...gas goes direct to pump first and sometimes a partially failed pump will still start the car when primed.

Another general note: failing electronics components are often heat sensitive (this might include the MAF).
If no codes are read, then basic theory says check gas and spark at the engine during crank-no-start...I've never been forced to do this on an A8 (others have). A look at the spark plugs (at least one) wouldn't hurt. Without a fuel pressure guage, you'd just have to diconnect a line at the engine (or engine side of fuel filter) to check. On spark: there may be another way, but pulling a plug and reconnecting while out and cranking is one way.

Keep in touch

 

It has stalled warm. It will start idle rough and just stop. Then of course the car won't start. I will get those codes and see what comes up. I appreciate all the patience and help.

 

So I did the check that was recommended on another thread for the maf sensor. While running I unplugged the sensor and the car kept running like it had been. Bad sensor then?

 

Definitely need codes, if any...the lack of could tell us something too. Hard to say if it's the MAF...many cars can run in a back up mode (limp...not to be confused with transmission limp mode) with them disconnected.

I would also do a good visual, esp top and sides of engine (with plastic covers removed) for any disconnected, cracked or loose fitting vacuum hoses...anywhere from the tiny ones, up to large hoses (3/4" approx).

Let me know if you get any codes...any Check Engine Light? ...if not, does it come on with ignition key, before you start the engine?