Not a problem, I have drawn from your database and would be happy to contribute to it. I don't have the codes recorded here, but I'll read them again as soon as I think of it and let you know.

 

Here ya go D2, the codes I am currently sporting:
P0340 - Camshaft position sensor Bank 1
P0021 - Camshaft position timing over advanced bank 2
P0300 - Multiple/random misfires
P0305 - P0308 - Cylinder 5 through 8 misfires

The camshaft position ones can vary, sometimes I get both errors for both camshafts.

 

Thanks...without any history from you, I'd really be scratchin my head. If you didn't already have timing codes, the misfires would not have pointed me to a timing problem...but don't know how far off it is(?).
Did you already order the cam lock/timing tool...if not, I'd be pulling off the cam gear covers to at least do a crude check of TDC #5 timing...be drivin me nuts.
Curious to see what you discover in any case...keep us posted.

 

Ever had those valve covers off? They're kind of a bitch to get to seal back up properly. I'm quite confident that it'll all be fixed when I line up the cams, I never had anything before I did the timing belt job. I didn't order the tool yet, I've been putting up with this since September, I can wait a little longer until it gets above freezing outside, but I'll certainly let you know.
As for how far off it is, it really can't be much, the engine still feels smooth at all revs and has plenty of power.

 

No no, I meant the front upper cam belt belt covers (clip on)...to look at the alignment holes on those outside belt gears. At tdc #5, the holes (big ones pointed inside) should line up straight across...you can lay a yard stick across it for a quick look...golf tees for REAL precision
Campulleys.jpg?t=1297483175

 

Oh, yeah yeah, they're close. Haven't had a straight edge across them, but they're close to straight, though visibly not quite there.

 

Yeah mondo, those codes generally mean you are off a tooth or two. Once you have BOTH the cam bar and puller it should be a snap to do.

Just for the record, ALL audi technicians loosen the cam pulleys when doing the timing belt. Its much easier to do it that way because when the cam bar is installed we can pop off the pulleys a couple centimeters, then we can remove the cam bar entirely so its not in our way. Since the pulleys are no longer attached to the cams, the cams won't move, its just a matter of putting the belt back on and pulling it tight, its much easier to get the slack out of the belt when the cam pulleys are freewheeling. Once everything is lined up, put the cam bar back on and torque down the cam bolts and everything should be in perfect alignment.

 

I have yet another D2 timing belt job (crankseal) completed... one thing that bugs me is torquing the eccentric pulley.

What combination of tools do you use so you can torque the center bolt while holding the tension with the 2 pin tool?

I can't come up with the right extension/socket setup that will allow both to fit at the same time. With a 1/4" drive on the tool, a 3/8" drive hits the other drive and doesn't fit. I've tried different extensions on each but no go.

The last couple of times, I've used an 8mm hex wrench to get it tight enough where it doesn't move and then use my torque wrench with an 8mm socket to finish it off with the tool removed. I watch the two holes in the center to see if they move when I do this step.

It would be nice if there was some sort of an offset 8mm hex socket (think I just invented a tool) that would allow you to do it in one shot.

What do you guys do?

Bob

 

Not by the book, of course, but the result was....I tensioned the eccentric roller by feel, while torqueing down the mounting bolt. It didn't move during torquing, so no problem. I then checked the needed 5mm clearance at the damper piston (by the book), which was a little wide (7mm). Repeated the procedure, but tensioned the eccentric just a lttle more, while torqueing (no movement)...rotated the engine at the crank and couple of times...5mm...done. Used my old VW tensioner pin tool...same size through the years (VW & Audi), which made it easy to hold in place, while and fitting in allen socket on torque wrench.

After all, the resulting 5mm clearance on the damper piston is what's important...not the actual micro torque needed to acheive it.

Tensionertool.jpg?t=1297610558

 

the tensioning tool I have goes onto a 1/4" drive. I like the one you have with the handle. I wound up doing it the same way you did until I got to the 5mm measurement and usually takes 2-3 tries.

Not a big deal but it would be nice to get it on the 1st shot...