Hello Silverd2:

Here are a couple of additional links for Bentley's DVD's...from retailers. Not direct as w/Bentley's for possible immediate download...but a nice price savings.

Bentley's customer service also indicates that the license gives you 2 usable codes @ any computers of your choice...changeable in the future as your computer usage may change....if you purchase from Bentley directly or thru a retailer...nice !!!

$71.89 http://www.all-foreign.com/ShopByVeh...VD-ROM&mode=PA

$81.65 http://www.partsgeek.com/pdproducts/...Geek+ShopZilla

I got mine from PartsGeek before I ran across the "All Foreign Car Parts" site over this past weekend...oh well...it was still a nice price & delivery...filled the bill.

Hope this is helpful to those who may need Bentley's Repair Manual...

I would like to see the DIY video clips on the 40v engine as well...hope it's coming soon...

 

Bumping this because a new page started 5 minutes after I posted it.

 

NOT necessarily...if the cam belt pulleys are already attached correctly, this will not fix anything...just complicate it. If they are seated correctly, you should be able to attach the cam bar with crank at TDC cylinder #5...this will confirm proper belt timing...if it won't attach and the pulleys are seated properly, then the belt is on wrong. If this all lines up, then it's on to the cam chain timing...possibly a separate issue from the belt, if chain has jumped time. If the cam belt pulleys are on correctly and line up with the bar, the exhaust cam HAS to be lined up correctly under the valve cover...it's a direct physical connection. If the intake cam is out of time inside, then the chain is out of time.
But what you propose, about cracking the cam pulleys, should only help if they were not seated correctly...with all connected correctly (including belt), you don't "adjust" timing with these pulleys...you just assure proper belt installation...and possibly proper belt pulley seating...this would be confirmed if belt pulley lined up with bar and timing mark on exhaust cam lines up inside valve cover.

Without timing marks, don't know how you're going to check this, unless there are no timing codes and all runs smooth(?).

 

Well, to recap, I did my own timing belt a few months back, and all runs smooth, but I have cam timing faults, so my thought process is, if I have the crank at TDC, loosen the cam pulleys so that they can move and then use the bar to align my camshafts while I tighten the pulleys back down, that should fix the timing problem. If that's not the case I'm afraid you'll have to explain why because it all works in my mind.
(and the fact that the cam timing fault appeared right after the belt job is enough to strike out timing chain issue in my way of thinking)

Also, not sure what you mean by "cam belt pulleys on correctly." I was under the impression that they can spin freely on the cam shaft once the nut is loosened a couple of turns, it's only the little diamond plate with the holes that is keyed. What I'm proposing is leaving the belt and everything assembled, and just turning the camshafts slightly so that they line up with the locator bar, and then tightening the pulleys back up.

 

^^^Yes that trick does work and i have used it before, however there is one problem. Loosening the bolt on the cam pulleys won't let the pulley freewheel. You need to use a gear puller and pull the pulley off the cam shaft (with the bolt still on so it doesn't come off the cam completely) You will hear a loud POP, then you can manually crank the camshafts over with the cam bar to line everything up to TDC with the crank, then you can crank the cam bolts back down locking everything in place.

 

Well admittedly I have never loosened a cam belt pulley to change a timing belt, so no personal experience with that step. I have changed timing belts on every German car I've owned (a bunch of em, including my '01 A8)) and don't use that method, because have never found that neceassary to remove or replace belt...even though my alternate method (paint marks and tooth count to maintain proper timing) works every time.....BUT that's another discussion.

Anyway, my point is that if tooth count is off from one gear to another (both cam pulleys and crank pulley), that can only be fixed by belt off and back on to correct placement...could not be corrected by just moving pulleys.

By "correct seating" I mean: holes on belt pulleys directly across from each other, so cam lock could be put on with crank at TDC #5. If cam pulleys are torqued down at this point with exhaust cams at proper timing, then seating is correct. If all is OK with chain timing (likely is), then proper seating depends on cam pulleys tightened with exhaust cam in time. With that right, proper timing would only depend on correct belt placement on all gears...nothing else could cause timing to be off.

So I'm assuming you believe that you did not torque down the cam gears at the proper point of rotation?
In that case, yes I agree that your fix will work. But could you have done that with belt on gears correctly?

If belt was not put back on ALL pulleys exactly right (perfect tooth count), then the camlock will not fit on gears with crank at TDC #5. As tight as the belt fits, the cam pulleys could not turn enough to correct that, without belt coming off gear(s?) to get belt teeth back in the right grooves.

Does that make more sense now ?

I was just saying that if belt timing is wrong (tooth count...has to be right, no matter what) then cam belt gears couldn't be moved to right place anyway.

 

Auditech gets me, and yeah, I have a gear puller that should be right for the job. The idea, D2, is that with those camshaft pulleys freewheeling I can set the crankshaft at TDC and align the 2 camshafts while leaving the belt on and tensioned, then once everything is aligned, I just tighten the pulleys back down. I even found an alignment bar on ebay for $55, a lot to pay for a strip of metal with 4 lugs sticking out of it, but better than $120 for the Assenmacher version!

Edit: D2, I think because you've never managed to screw it up you're not quite clear on how this all works, those little diamond plates with the holes that the bar locks into are keyed onto the camshafts. The pulleys themselves, however, are just on a tapered shaft, so once you crack them off they are free to spin against the camshaft and the little alignment plates, so it really doesn't matter where the belt is on them because everything will settle once the pulleys are free of the cams.

Thanks to both of you guys for the input!

 

Thanks, Mongo....Yes I participate as much to learn as to help, and always hope I can do a little of both. As you noticed, I didn't realize until recently exactly how the cam pulleys attached (Bentley never clearly specifies fitment)...have never had a cam seal leak and always leave well enough alone. I do understand why Bentley suggests loosening them for belt timing, but have always had no trouble with my simplified (and fear of screwing something up) method of marking the old/new belts and rocking the cam pulleys to fit new belt....to double check my fitment (not the most scientific, but works) I use a straight edge hung across the cam gears and stick golf tees in alignment holes...how's that for using what's lying around?

Forgive me if you've already posted this, but exactly what timing code(s) did you get or still have?

 

I usually get both side cam timing faults pretty soon after clearing them, and after a while I end up with several cylinder misfires. As soon as the snow melts I'm going to get my hands on an alignment bar and do this and hopefully my engine light will stay off for a while! Golf tees and a straight edge do sound tempting though...

 

Yeah, the tees gave me peace of mind and could be a good "general" indicator if things are way off (?)
If you got em or remember, specific number codes for timing?...there's quite a few and just for my own acedemic (or future reference) purposes, just wondered how specifically those codes pointed to your problem...and not some other part of the cam timing system.
Don't mean to be a nag..just always eager to learn more. Thanks.