Okay, ignition problems - need more input
Some pics would be a huge help here, its not a common issue.
I'm finally getting out of work for the night, I'll fire up Bentley when I get home, and get some screenshots posted.
Matt
I'm finally getting out of work for the night, I'll fire up Bentley when I get home, and get some screenshots posted.
Matt
Thanks Matt... I'll get some pics up once I get home..
Appreciate the help. I bought a bently and it's in a different island. big help it does me right now.
-Mig
Appreciate the help. I bought a bently and it's in a different island. big help it does me right now.
-Mig
I would try to jb cold weld (glue) it in place. And if that doesen't work, replace the part with the one you are talking about. That glue is really strong, far stronger then plastic, so it should be ok.
Audi > TT > 2000 - 2005
Electrical Equipment
94 - Lights, Switches - Exterior Lock cylinder, removing and installing All models: [/ul] Note: [/ul] Spare key is required for removal of lock cylinder as the following operations can only be performed with an ignition key with a flat grip, i.e. no light and no remote control. Turn spare key to "ignition ON" position, thus aligning recess in trim -arrow- with hole in ignition lock. [/ul] Note: [/ul] Illustration shows correct lock position without ignition key. [/ul] Insert steel wire or pin ( Ø approx. 1.5 mm) as far as it will go into hole -1- and in doing so pull lock cylinder -2- with reader coil out of steering lock housing -3-. [/ul] CAUTION! Do not lock steering without lock cylinder in place. Steering lock will become blocked and require replacement. Installing [/ul] Install in reverse order of removal, noting the following: [/ul] Insert spare key in lock cylinder and turn to "Ignition on" position. [/ul] Insert steel wire/pin -1- in hole on end face as far as it will go. [/ul] Insert lock cylinder -2- with reader coil in steering lock housing -3-. [/ul] Then pull out steel wire and firmly press in lock cylinder until catch is heard to engage. [/ul] Where applicable, reconnect electrical connection at immobilizer reader coil. [/ul]
Electrical Equipment
94 - Lights, Switches - Exterior Lock cylinder, removing and installing All models: [/ul] Note: [/ul] Spare key is required for removal of lock cylinder as the following operations can only be performed with an ignition key with a flat grip, i.e. no light and no remote control. Turn spare key to "ignition ON" position, thus aligning recess in trim -arrow- with hole in ignition lock. [/ul] Note: [/ul] Illustration shows correct lock position without ignition key. [/ul] Insert steel wire or pin ( Ø approx. 1.5 mm) as far as it will go into hole -1- and in doing so pull lock cylinder -2- with reader coil out of steering lock housing -3-. [/ul] CAUTION! Do not lock steering without lock cylinder in place. Steering lock will become blocked and require replacement. Installing [/ul] Install in reverse order of removal, noting the following: [/ul] Insert spare key in lock cylinder and turn to "Ignition on" position. [/ul] Insert steel wire/pin -1- in hole on end face as far as it will go. [/ul] Insert lock cylinder -2- with reader coil in steering lock housing -3-. [/ul] Then pull out steel wire and firmly press in lock cylinder until catch is heard to engage. [/ul] Where applicable, reconnect electrical connection at immobilizer reader coil. [/ul]
Lemme know if you actually need the diagrams, its not as easy as copy and paste, but I can get them to you if you need them.
BTW, you can download the bentley program and activate it wherever you are, assuming you have an open activation (they give you 2). maybe that'll make it easier for you.
BTW, you can download the bentley program and activate it wherever you are, assuming you have an open activation (they give you 2). maybe that'll make it easier for you.
Here's some photos of what's going on...

that's where I am. Both Ignition Switch and Ignition Lock Column are out.

Ignition switch didn't want to turn before, for some reason, now it turns and I can start the car with a flatscrewdriver

the metal piece that broke off and where in the Ignition Switch Housing it belongs

where it's supposed to go...

ignition switch housing, where the metal part broke off from...

This is my current driving setup, except airbag/horn, knee board and fuse cover are installed. It looks cleaner now than this picture but I turn on the car with a screw driver. At least she's drivable.
Next step is to try to cold weld the metal piece back to where it came from. If not, I have to figure out how to remove these:


it looks like they weren't meant to be removed but this might be what I need to replace. Any Ideas, diagrams, etc would be awesome at this point.
-Mig

that's where I am. Both Ignition Switch and Ignition Lock Column are out.

Ignition switch didn't want to turn before, for some reason, now it turns and I can start the car with a flatscrewdriver

the metal piece that broke off and where in the Ignition Switch Housing it belongs

where it's supposed to go...

ignition switch housing, where the metal part broke off from...

This is my current driving setup, except airbag/horn, knee board and fuse cover are installed. It looks cleaner now than this picture but I turn on the car with a screw driver. At least she's drivable.
Next step is to try to cold weld the metal piece back to where it came from. If not, I have to figure out how to remove these:


it looks like they weren't meant to be removed but this might be what I need to replace. Any Ideas, diagrams, etc would be awesome at this point.
-Mig
They're shear bolts.. You crank them until the heads pop off. : (
Don't see why a standard bolt wouldn't work, just make sure the thing isn't gonna come loose on ya.[*]Drill out or, if necessary, chisel out shear bolts and remove ignition lock housing.[*]When installing, note the following points:[*]Insert ignition lock housing and secure with new shear bolts.[*]Tighten shear bolts until heads shear off.[*]Connect connector for ignition lock and immobilizer[*]Align steering column switch with steering wheel and tighten.[*]Install upper and lower gap cover[*]Install upper and lower trim for steering column switch. [/ul]BTW, steering wheel bolt is apparently supposed to be replaced if you take the steering wheel off, and its supposed to be torqued to 50Nm
Don't see why a standard bolt wouldn't work, just make sure the thing isn't gonna come loose on ya.[*]Drill out or, if necessary, chisel out shear bolts and remove ignition lock housing.[*]When installing, note the following points:[*]Insert ignition lock housing and secure with new shear bolts.[*]Tighten shear bolts until heads shear off.[*]Connect connector for ignition lock and immobilizer[*]Align steering column switch with steering wheel and tighten.[*]Install upper and lower gap cover[*]Install upper and lower trim for steering column switch. [/ul]BTW, steering wheel bolt is apparently supposed to be replaced if you take the steering wheel off, and its supposed to be torqued to 50Nm
Thanks for the post. The list of parts to replace seem to be growing every so slowly every day. There was a post on how much money people spend on their TTs here somewhere. If I'd spent the money on upgrades instead of repairs, I think I'd almost if not already have a bonafied Stage III TT maybe even twin BTs. Ahh... someday, maybe.
Thanks for all the help. I'll order the Housing on Monday and have to remember to order the new bolts and steering wheel bolt when I do that.
Again, thanks for the help.
-Mig
Thanks for all the help. I'll order the Housing on Monday and have to remember to order the new bolts and steering wheel bolt when I do that.
Again, thanks for the help.
-Mig
Oh snap! (literally) I can honestlysay i've never seen that happen on any audi that im aware of.
Im gonna have to take mine apart and check it out now (all audi's use the same switch) [:'(]
Well at least you know what you need.
Im gonna have to take mine apart and check it out now (all audi's use the same switch) [:'(]
Well at least you know what you need.


