Thanks

 

Yes, pull the codes first. There's like a dozen things that might be causing this problem. If' you have a code for your MAF sensor replace that (it's still kinda expensive- $220). My car recently had a simular problem, ran okay then shut off. Was hard to restart then it would run fine for a couple miles, then shut off again. I'm told an easy way to check for a bad MAF is to just unplug it, so that might be a good easy place to start.

I don't know if there is a code that tells you you have a bad ECM, sounds like they're just throwing darts and guessing.

 

Buy a RossTech cable, well worth the cost.

Do you have a 1.8t or a 2.8 and what country are you in?

$3000 for a ECU or are they trying to sell you another 20001 A4?

 

Autozone or Advance will let you borrow their OBD2 scanner if you leave a deposit if you can't get your car there. I'm guessing your engine coolant temp sensor is bad. Your symptoms are spot on for it. Definitely find a new mechanic if they are trying to charge $3,000 for a new ecm, which is probably not the problem in the first place.

 

Thanks guys.

 

You can always try to find someone close to you that has a Vagcom cable you can borrow. Plenty of people with them here in Socal.

 

Wow 3g's for a new ECU For that you go and buy the AEM plug and play ECU system that cost like 1 to 2g lol you can find those ECU in crigslist or ebay for like less then 300 and you can install it your self.

 

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P1419
Looky^... I wasn't kidding! This is a $12 or so part at the dealer and easy DIY.

P1419
The ECM relay fault could be triggered by repeated sudden loss of power while driving. The ECM communicates with a few other control modules only if the engine is running. If this communication is interupted when the engine stalls, the ecm may think it has a power issue - relay.

The crankcase breather hose leaking isn't going to cause the car to stall.

 

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