broke a bolt, now what? *pics*
#12
Yeah, bshusted, but since it's a nut/bolt combination thread pitch in this instance doesn't really matter as long as the new nut and bolt have the same pitch. I've done this the way I've described and it worked perfectly for me.
#13
Use a torch and some freezing fastener remover from autozone or whatever.
Heat up it up and hit it with the spray. then heat it up again anf hit it with an air hammer and it should just about fall out. A cheap air hammer might run you like 40 bucks or so from lowes, sears, harbor freight, etc. Make sure you buy a tapered punch for your air hammer to get access to hit the bolt itself. If you lived on the east coast i could do it for you in no time.
Remember its only metal so DONT be nice to it or you will be there all day.
Good luck with your new found project
Heat up it up and hit it with the spray. then heat it up again anf hit it with an air hammer and it should just about fall out. A cheap air hammer might run you like 40 bucks or so from lowes, sears, harbor freight, etc. Make sure you buy a tapered punch for your air hammer to get access to hit the bolt itself. If you lived on the east coast i could do it for you in no time.
Remember its only metal so DONT be nice to it or you will be there all day.
Good luck with your new found project
#14
Let it soak in penetrating oil and see if you can punch it out. Can you spin it with the other end? You may need to warm it up with a MAPP gas torch and then douse it with water to break the corrosion.
I know it's no consolation now, but I was able to get my cv's out without undoing any of the suspension. Once you get the big hub bolt out, put the chassis back on jackstands and then remove the top bolt for the transmission on the side you're working jacking the transmission about an inch gave me plenty of room to slide the outer spline out of the hub.
I know it's no consolation now, but I was able to get my cv's out without undoing any of the suspension. Once you get the big hub bolt out, put the chassis back on jackstands and then remove the top bolt for the transmission on the side you're working jacking the transmission about an inch gave me plenty of room to slide the outer spline out of the hub.
#15
The only bolts that have to come out are the end axle bolt and the six 12-pt diff-axle bolts. That's it. No pinch bolts need to be removed. No tranny bolts need to come out. Seven axle-related bolts, some swearing, and it's out. That's all.
#16
I found that when removing the CV shaft, the shaft itself was long enough that there was no way I could get the shaft out. The transmission bolt I removed was the bolt that goes into the top of the transmission mount from the big aluminum bracket. Then I used the jack the transmission to lift it an inch or so. This gave me just enough room to remove the shaft from the cup part of the diff.
Perhaps you won't have this issue when doing yours. I would proceed as the Devil suggested, but if you run into the same issue just pull that one bolt and lift the transmission a bit. to gain some more room.
Perhaps you won't have this issue when doing yours. I would proceed as the Devil suggested, but if you run into the same issue just pull that one bolt and lift the transmission a bit. to gain some more room.
#19
^what he said. with a little more swearing on top. I did mine a couple weeks ago (2001 2.8 quattro) with the front end of the car on jack stands, i used a floor jack to lift the knuckle up out of the way and it came out with some finaggeling. and that was just for the passenger side. the drivers side basically fell out once i unbolted it...
Last edited by livinglegend2100; 10-21-2011 at 10:26 PM.
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01-26-2010 01:29 AM