head lights
So my head lights stoped working. If I pull the stick back and hold it my brights will stay on. Every thing else works. All the fuses seem to be ok. I have no clue where the realys are for this car. The stick for the lights seems fine. Is there any way to test it before replaceing it? I would like to test the relays, can some one tell me there location? Im just making sure the problem i fix is fixed right. its for a 97 1.8t b5. I just put gas in it and now my lights work. Just weird...
Last edited by fastenhard; Dec 18, 2009 at 04:33 PM.
ok so I had to fix this issue last week and although there is a good diy on audiworld I'm going to help you out a bit. His directions for removing the wheel and trim pieces are perfect but you shouldn't remove the combi switch from the stalk. It just makes more work for you. once you get the steering wheel off (which takes maybe 3 minutes) it should look like this:

then you need to undo the medal plate with the four tiny allen screws and take the swith apart from the inside. it will look like this with everything removed except for the headlight contacts. (remember what it looked like so you can reassemble)

put your parts in a good place so you don't lose them

you will notice that your contacts both up top and on the bottom of the switch are covered in crap and will need to be cleaned and scratched with steel wool or sandpaper.

to clean the contacts just wrap some q-tips with steel wool like so

the copper contacts inside of the plastic housings will need to be cleaned and the springs that push them out will need to be stretched out


check to make sure nothing has melted and gotten in the away of the copper pieces. They must be able to leave the housing and make contact with what you cleaned back in the switch. If you had a bad connection due to the crap build up there is a chance the resistance caused enough heat to melt the plastic, and if it did, just sand it down.
*when you're reinstalling the metal plate that holds the switch internals in place you can adjust how much resistance the headlight lever gives you by tightening the 4 screws more or less. I went for a slightly tighter action on mine and it feels good every time i turn the lights on.
My pops and I got it done in 27 minutes so don't take it to a mechanic!
hope this is helpful

then you need to undo the medal plate with the four tiny allen screws and take the swith apart from the inside. it will look like this with everything removed except for the headlight contacts. (remember what it looked like so you can reassemble)

put your parts in a good place so you don't lose them

you will notice that your contacts both up top and on the bottom of the switch are covered in crap and will need to be cleaned and scratched with steel wool or sandpaper.

to clean the contacts just wrap some q-tips with steel wool like so

the copper contacts inside of the plastic housings will need to be cleaned and the springs that push them out will need to be stretched out


check to make sure nothing has melted and gotten in the away of the copper pieces. They must be able to leave the housing and make contact with what you cleaned back in the switch. If you had a bad connection due to the crap build up there is a chance the resistance caused enough heat to melt the plastic, and if it did, just sand it down.
*when you're reinstalling the metal plate that holds the switch internals in place you can adjust how much resistance the headlight lever gives you by tightening the 4 screws more or less. I went for a slightly tighter action on mine and it feels good every time i turn the lights on.
My pops and I got it done in 27 minutes so don't take it to a mechanic!
hope this is helpful
Last edited by zakario; Feb 14, 2010 at 04:32 PM.
Yeah, mine melted a lot, and the spring came out of the plastic and the plastic went flying and yadda yadda yadda. Even after recovering the peices there was no way that deformed **** was fitting back together. So I bought a new one!


