head lights
ok so I had to fix this issue last week and although there is a good diy on audiworld I'm going to help you out a bit. His directions for removing the wheel and trim pieces are perfect but you shouldn't remove the combi switch from the stalk. It just makes more work for you. once you get the steering wheel off (which takes maybe 3 minutes) it should look like this:

then you need to undo the medal plate with the four tiny allen screws and take the swith apart from the inside. it will look like this with everything removed except for the headlight contacts. (remember what it looked like so you can reassemble)

put your parts in a good place so you don't lose them

you will notice that your contacts both up top and on the bottom of the switch are covered in crap and will need to be cleaned and scratched with steel wool or sandpaper.

to clean the contacts just wrap some q-tips with steel wool like so

the copper contacts inside of the plastic housings will need to be cleaned and the springs that push them out will need to be stretched out


check to make sure nothing has melted and gotten in the away of the copper pieces. They must be able to leave the housing and make contact with what you cleaned back in the switch. If you had a bad connection due to the crap build up there is a chance the resistance caused enough heat to melt the plastic, and if it did, just sand it down.
*when you're reinstalling the metal plate that holds the switch internals in place you can adjust how much resistance the headlight lever gives you by tightening the 4 screws more or less. I went for a slightly tighter action on mine and it feels good every time i turn the lights on.
My pops and I got it done in 27 minutes so don't take it to a mechanic!
hope this is helpful

then you need to undo the medal plate with the four tiny allen screws and take the swith apart from the inside. it will look like this with everything removed except for the headlight contacts. (remember what it looked like so you can reassemble)

put your parts in a good place so you don't lose them

you will notice that your contacts both up top and on the bottom of the switch are covered in crap and will need to be cleaned and scratched with steel wool or sandpaper.

to clean the contacts just wrap some q-tips with steel wool like so

the copper contacts inside of the plastic housings will need to be cleaned and the springs that push them out will need to be stretched out


check to make sure nothing has melted and gotten in the away of the copper pieces. They must be able to leave the housing and make contact with what you cleaned back in the switch. If you had a bad connection due to the crap build up there is a chance the resistance caused enough heat to melt the plastic, and if it did, just sand it down.
*when you're reinstalling the metal plate that holds the switch internals in place you can adjust how much resistance the headlight lever gives you by tightening the 4 screws more or less. I went for a slightly tighter action on mine and it feels good every time i turn the lights on.
My pops and I got it done in 27 minutes so don't take it to a mechanic!
hope this is helpful
Ok SO I have about half this issue and it's beginning to worry me honestly. MY headlights work fine, the issue I noticed is that when I shut my car off and were to leave my lights on they go out when I turn the ignition off. which I believe is wrong they should remain on while the stick is in place right? and then even when I op[en my door I get no warning sounds telling m,e "hey the light switch is on", SO i'm confused at this point :|
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mypreludeisred
Archive - Misc Items for Sale
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Aug 9, 2006 11:08 PM



