My Audi is 1997 A4 1.8T AEB MOTOR
Car is overheating. I took ot termostat first. It is still overheating!
I replaced rad and still overheating.
NOW:
I started cold and runs good. I diconected hose going from top of the engine to coolant container and pump is pumping coolant. When car warms up at 90 I did the same thing and no coolant is going from the same hose.
So I am thinking it is water pump which works only when is cold and soon as the car worms up it stops.
Does it make any sense?
If it is a pump I understand that on this motor code AEB it is external pump and it does not run from timming belt.
Can I changed by muself?

Any input would be great.

Thanks

 

It's still belt-driven. If the engine is turning and the belt tension is good, the pump is turning. Have you burped the cooling system to be sure you don't have air in it? How's the power - does it seem slow? A combustion-chamber-to-coolant-galley tear in a head gasket is possible.

 

Car runs good and has lots of power. I tryed burping the system through pin hole on hose going to heater hose. Coolant is coming out through there only when the car is cold and when it reaches 90 no coolant is coming out. Is there some other place with screw for leting air out?
Engine is AEB 1997 1.8t so I didnt see screw on top of the motor on metal pipe.
I still think that head gascet is good. I dont have any oil in coolant, I dont have coolant in oil, coolant doesn't buble in plastic container when car is hot.
I am confused!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pump is belt driven but what about propeler when gets warm, maybe slips from the shaft?????

Help me please

 

Burp it this way - leave the pinhole closed up and start the car. Idling in the driveway, let it heat up to about 3/4 of the way to an overheat (halfway between normal and the red zone), and then shut it down. Allow the car to cool for 10-15 minutes and then (using a towel to protect your hand), SLOWLY open the overfill cap. If you get a big air purge it means you had a bubble in the system. Close it up and repeat until it no longer purges air.

I'm hoping it's just a matter of air, as it costs nothing to purge it.

 

Many of the water pumps also had phenolic impellers. it is not uncommon for these to begin to degrade to the point that they either break or as you stated earlier, slip on the shaft. I wouldn't count this out as a possibility.

 

OK Guys,

Thanks for all of your help!!!

Took the car to Audi Specialist in town and I need Fan Cluch!!! Car had an air in cooling system as well. System is burped and new fan cluch goes in today!!!

Fan cluch is 100 cdn, labour 100 cdn.

I think problem will be solved!!!

 

Ok, New fan cluch is in and air burped from cooling system and still overheats.
Also new rad is in and still top coolant hose is hot and bottom cold.
What it can be?
Can you please help me with suggestions.

Is it water pump
Is it head gasket
Is it turbo (I have pes28 turbo system on it)

Car overheats and overheats especialy on HW at HW speeds.

Any imput that can help is welcome.

Thanks in advance!!!

 

This is what I found out.
There is a hose from top of the engine going to coolant container. I took it of when I started vehicle cold and it has flow from water pump. If I give gas presure of coolant coming from that hose drops. As the car is warming up there is less and less presure of coolant coming from that hose. This gives me an Idea that water pump is not working properly.
Does this make any sence to you guys.
Can someone give me an imput.

THANKS

 

Problem Solved!!!

Instaled new pump $80 from Auto Camping here in Canada. Took it to friends shop and changed it. This car has external pump so it was around 4 hours to do it.
Car now runs nice and does not overheat!!!

Thanks