Gotcha - I was assuming you meant the A8 brake upgrade. If that's what you're getting, awesome, and all of the above info applies. If you're doing that and replacing your OEM calipers, no sweat. The brake bleed procedure will walk you through the bleed process once you're done swapping calipers, and all you need to do in addition to what has been posted is to remove the brake line from your existing caliper and attach to the new one (might I suggest stainless steel lines from ECS while you're in there? Might as well). I agree that if the calipers were binding, especially the fronts, you'd feel it. Chances are your rotors are just beat and your calipers are OK. Swap the rotors and try it out and see what happens. If it acts messed up, then look into calipers.

 

And no, I don't believe ESP came out until at least the midyear facelift at 99.5 (it may have been later, but my 99 doesn't have it).

 

Uh oh. Here's an update. Today was the first day I drove more than 10 miles after having my tires changed. Now when I brake from more than 30 mph, the brake pedal pumps beneath my foot. The harder I step on the pedal, the harder the pedal pumps/vibrates/oscillates. Is that in fact the caliper? I've never ever felt this on the brake pedal before having my tires changed... could it be alignment?

 

A4audia4
I think your shop didn’t tighten your wheel bolts evenly and what your feeling is warped rotors

It’s time to replace my front pads as the light came on. My question is how do you remove the spring clip? Docurly’s post talks about an ”Audi supplied screwdriver” what is that? Docurlry mention 7mm hex key for the caliper retaining bolts but ImTheDevil Mentions 8mm. Which one is it?

Thanks

 

I second what C4avant said - loosen and then retorque your lug studs (with a ratcheting torque wrench, proper skip-one pattern) to 90 ft-lbs. It's likely that the shop air-gunned the lugs on, and who knows what torque they're at - they may be evenly torqued but too tight, warping the rotors, or they may be improperly and unevenly torqued, also warping them.

The spring clip on the outside of the caliper? Just use a flat blade screwdriver and gently pry it off - it will come out with a little wiggling. As for the retaining bolts, I seem to remember it being an 8mm but it may have been a 7mm. In any event, just buy a set of allen bits for your ratchet - I got a set at Advance Auto Parts that has every size from 4mm to 10mm, for about $9 or so. You'll definitely want to start collecting some tools like that (I'd order the allen bit set from ECS Tuning as well - comes with 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm - you'll need the 17 for front axle bolts and the 14 for rears, if you ever have to replace a wheel bearing, CV joint, or axle). Get a set of Torx bits too - a comprehensive one. There are tons of them on this car, and the set I got (again, at Advance) was $17 and has about 15 different bits. I have yet to come across a torx bolt on the car that needed a bit other than those in the kit. You can definitely do a lot of maintenance on the A4 yourself - it's much more work-friendly than many cars I've worked on - but you will need some specialty tools like these. And with what Audi charges per hour, you'll find you can save a fortune by buying a service manual and some basic decent tools, plus the Audi-specific specialty tools like these.

 

Thanks, the tool info is just what I needed

 

Hummm I would guess that the ABS sensor may have brake dust or crap on it and its triggering the ABS system.

I would pull the sensor out and clean them.

 

okay so i wanna do the big brake kit on my 2003 a4 quattro with 1.8t.

And as far as i know i need:

Front:
2 Audi tt brakets
2 Audi A8 rotors

Rear:
Rear Left and Right Audi S4 calipers
Rear Audi A8 rotors

What year does the Audi TT need to be and what year Audi A8 need to be? So i can go to my local parts store and pic them up there?