Best thing to do is to wait till after you get the car chipped and see how it feels then. nearly every person that has owned a stock tuned dbw car has complained about how the rpms are very lazy and even when shifting the rpms would hang for a bit before the rpms woud drop down. If at that point your not happy you can always swap to a 9-12 lbs billet aluminum flywheel, but most people found those to be annoying for a daily driver since you need to give it a bit more throttle before releasing the clutch other wise the car would bog and even stall.

 

Thanks for all the info. I think I'll get that chip a little sooner than I had originally planned. I just want to make sure that what ever company I go with will give me good software upgrade options when I get my big turbo.

By the way Mike, what kind of turbo are you running?

 

he's running a BAFT lol. you should do your build like his since his is a AWM also (i believe?)

 

Nice acronym, lol. I figured that's what he had after seeing his track videos. That's the fastest A4 I've ever seen in my life. I'm guessing either a GT30 or GT35.

Originally I was going to go with the KO4, but might as well get a lot more if I'm already spending that kind of money. I'm leaning toward a GT3076R, unless a bunch of people talk me out of it. Doesn't seem to be happening though, everyone else seems to be almost as excited as I am. I just want to talk to some people who've done it already.

 

I was running a standard GT35r pushing 32-34psi back when I ran all my times in the 10's. Since then I have changed to GT35r with a real Garrett ported shroud because my old turbo that ran 10's was damaged while doing that. The new turbo pushes 37psi and has made way more power but now I have other issues that I need to fix so I can get it back to the track.

picture of the old GT35r


I sell these and GT30r setups with the Full-race manifold all the time, funny thing is I have sold more of them in 2 years then anyone else has since I had Full-race custome make it for me in 2003. But then I guess thats why I am the only Full-race dealer to get a link on their site.



Here is a nice looking GT30r I ordered up for a customer.


I also sell the FP HTA line.

 

9 lbs. flywheels are noisy and irritating to drive on the street. They aren't recommended for daily-drivers. The guys at SouthBend recommend not going any lighter than a 20 lbs. flywheel for daily-drivers to prevent noise (which I was surprised about).

Under-drive pulleys don't work for our 1.8Ts. They slow down the accessories too much, require a special sized belt only available through ECS, and do not create a noticeable or worth-while effect.

Blue-printing and balancing the engine would be the best bet, but that would be an expensive venture. It's not necessary to create substantial power on these cars, so most people don't waste their money.

 

That's one hell of a setup you got there Mike, your car is a beast! You ever beat any muscle cars? How much more maintenance/repairs will my car need once I get one of these bad boys? Assuming I drive it mostly just on weekends and take it to the track every month or two. I'm sure it'll be hard for me to keep the gas pedal off the floor once I get it.

I plan on getting a custom built 2.0 (bored out from a 1.8t) from QED. Would blue-printing and balancing the engine still be an expensive venture if I'm having an engine custom built anyway? I guess I'll have to find out whether or not they do that, and how much it will cost. Guess I kind of answered my own question there.

How about a knife edged crankshaft, lighter pistons and rods? Reliability is my biggest concern followed by cost. I already know I'll be spending a lot of money though, which is why this won't happen for another couple of years. So what's an extra couple grand anyway.

 

well he does have a 10 second car so he's beating quite a few cars out there. quattro also helps him launch much faster than the RWDs. in all honesty, do you rly need a racecar for a DD? i mean i'd love the power too but isn't that excessive?

If the engine is custom built, it should be balanced if it's done right. make sure it's been balanced. it's been said before, blueprinting and balancing is rly expensive. they have to make sure the engine doesn't vibrate at resonance frequency. basically, they have to work with very high tech machines.

if you want reliability, you should go elim. it's much easier to maintain and build than something like mike's car.

 

As said the LWFW helps make it rev a lot faster but so will going electric fan. But it's not worth it in an AWD car as faster rev's don't help very much accept for rev matching.

 

All the time and it pisses them off all the time. I have friends that run V8 cars at the track and they are really suprised that my 4 door family 4 cylinder car runs in the mid 10's.

You will want to make sure you have it balanced. Skip doing the knife edge because you really aren't going to gain anything by doing it. I used to have one and once I reached 500whp it ended up flexing. I wont do that again.

I have sold 3-4 fully built engines to customers that have been pretty happy with what they got. They are all balanced within 1 gram. I am now looking into having a local machine shop do the work for me so I can keep tabs on it a bit better, plus maybe be able to offer the built engines to my customers at a better price.



Yeah a 9 lbs flywheel should really only be used on a car that is pretty much used for nothing but road racing.

The 20 lbs flywheel is great for people that dont want to hear any gear rattle. The 14-17 lbs billet flywheels have a little gear rattle but you can only really hear that if your sitting next to something and it only happens when your at idle, out of gear and not pushing the clutch in. You really start to hear the gear rattle when you get into the aluminum flywheels since the material of the flywheel is less dense so the sound goes right thru it.

The 17 lbs flywheel from South Bend seems to be my best seller when someone is ordering a SB clutch.