Important extra step when you change your oil!
#1
01-26-2011, 08:11 AM
Important extra step when you change your oil!
Last night devildub and I changed the o-ring on the back of my oil cooler (the one that seals the oil into the system). I cold-started the car yesterday morning and went into the house. Couple minutes later, from inside the kitchen, I heard my valvetrain hammering. Ran out and shut it down. Big pool of oil under the car.
When I dropped the belly pan and did some cleanup I saw oil dripping out from behind the cooler. OK, blew the gasket, no big deal. Picked up a new one and we tore into it. Cone to find out, while brittle from age and heat, the o-ring hadn't failed. When you remove your oil filter, there's a 27mm retaining nut on the filter shaft. The tension of this nut is what holds the cooler on and keeps pressure against the o-ring, thus keeping the oil in the car instead of all over the road/driveway/parking lot.
On my car, this nut had for some reason backed off the cooler, opening the gasket and allowing my car to spray its full complement of oil out in a matter of a couple minutes. Had this happened while driving, with 3000RPM on thr clock, it would've been gone in seconds and I'd likely have lost the engine.
Please, for your own sake, when you change your oil, take an extra few seconds and verify that this nut is tight. It's worth the cost of replacing your engine to take a few seconds to make sure it's tight.
When I dropped the belly pan and did some cleanup I saw oil dripping out from behind the cooler. OK, blew the gasket, no big deal. Picked up a new one and we tore into it. Cone to find out, while brittle from age and heat, the o-ring hadn't failed. When you remove your oil filter, there's a 27mm retaining nut on the filter shaft. The tension of this nut is what holds the cooler on and keeps pressure against the o-ring, thus keeping the oil in the car instead of all over the road/driveway/parking lot.
On my car, this nut had for some reason backed off the cooler, opening the gasket and allowing my car to spray its full complement of oil out in a matter of a couple minutes. Had this happened while driving, with 3000RPM on thr clock, it would've been gone in seconds and I'd likely have lost the engine.
Please, for your own sake, when you change your oil, take an extra few seconds and verify that this nut is tight. It's worth the cost of replacing your engine to take a few seconds to make sure it's tight.
#2
01-26-2011, 09:40 AM
Last night devildub and I changed the o-ring on the back of my oil cooler (the one that seals the oil into the system). I cold-started the car yesterday morning and went into the house. Couple minutes later, from inside the kitchen, I heard my valvetrain hammering. Ran out and shut it down. Big pool of oil under the car.
When I dropped the belly pan and did some cleanup I saw oil dripping out from behind the cooler. OK, blew the gasket, no big deal. Picked up a new one and we tore into it. Cone to find out, while brittle from age and heat, the o-ring hadn't failed. When you remove your oil filter, there's a 27mm retaining nut on the filter shaft. The tension of this nut is what holds the cooler on and keeps pressure against the o-ring, thus keeping the oil in the car instead of all over the road/driveway/parking lot.
On my car, this nut had for some reason backed off the cooler, opening the gasket and allowing my car to spray its full complement of oil out in a matter of a couple minutes. Had this happened while driving, with 3000RPM on thr clock, it would've been gone in seconds and I'd likely have lost the engine.
Please, for your own sake, when you change your oil, take an extra few seconds and verify that this nut is tight. It's worth the cost of replacing your engine to take a few seconds to make sure it's tight.
When I dropped the belly pan and did some cleanup I saw oil dripping out from behind the cooler. OK, blew the gasket, no big deal. Picked up a new one and we tore into it. Cone to find out, while brittle from age and heat, the o-ring hadn't failed. When you remove your oil filter, there's a 27mm retaining nut on the filter shaft. The tension of this nut is what holds the cooler on and keeps pressure against the o-ring, thus keeping the oil in the car instead of all over the road/driveway/parking lot.
On my car, this nut had for some reason backed off the cooler, opening the gasket and allowing my car to spray its full complement of oil out in a matter of a couple minutes. Had this happened while driving, with 3000RPM on thr clock, it would've been gone in seconds and I'd likely have lost the engine.
Please, for your own sake, when you change your oil, take an extra few seconds and verify that this nut is tight. It's worth the cost of replacing your engine to take a few seconds to make sure it's tight.
#4
01-26-2011, 10:05 AM
@Andrew - a little but not much. Only problems were that sudden oil leak and the exhaust. Tearing up tires was expected with my drop and camber. Swapping my vmaxx for S4 suspension with another member shortly though.
@Morpheous - any A4 could have the same thing happen. Check yours just as I did. The coolers assemble onto the engine the same way.
@Morpheous - any A4 could have the same thing happen. Check yours just as I did. The coolers assemble onto the engine the same way.
#5
01-26-2011, 10:10 AM
@Andrew - a little but not much. Only problems were that sudden oil leak and the exhaust. Tearing up tires was expected with my drop and camber. Swapping my vmaxx for S4 suspension with another member shortly though.
@Morpheous - any A4 could have the same thing happen. Check yours just as I did. The coolers assemble onto the engine the same way.
@Morpheous - any A4 could have the same thing happen. Check yours just as I did. The coolers assemble onto the engine the same way.
#7
01-26-2011, 12:32 PM
Jeremy, the problem is that when removing the fliter, it sometimes turns the shaft/pass through tube just enough to loosen that nut. Ive actually pulled filters out that had that shaft and nut in them completely and then the cooler falls and you have to put it all back up making sure the o-ring is in place to. Its usually easier to work on from above by moving the coolant expansion tank (at least on the 1.8's).
That nut is the reason I own an oddball 27mm deep socket. its such a thin nut that using a box end doesnt make me happy.
That nut is the reason I own an oddball 27mm deep socket. its such a thin nut that using a box end doesnt make me happy.
#8
01-26-2011, 12:45 PM
I wish it was although I'm second-guessing that car based on the issues I'm hearing about, like fragmented flywheels and failing cam chain tensioners (which require engine removal to change). I'll research it more but if not that then maybe a B7 2.0Tqm. We'll see when the time comes. One car loan at a time lol
gotta say, I wish I had the bank for the 2011 A8L I was leaving stains on at the dealer yesterday. Black on black and optioned to $98,725. Salesman said he'd throw in a free keychain if I bought it lol.
gotta say, I wish I had the bank for the 2011 A8L I was leaving stains on at the dealer yesterday. Black on black and optioned to $98,725. Salesman said he'd throw in a free keychain if I bought it lol.
#9
01-26-2011, 12:47 PM
Faster, I agree with you completely - that's likely exactly what happened. On the 2.8 the cooler is behind thr driver foglight so lying under the front of the car is the only access. The coolant hose clamps are a pain but otherwise there's nothing to it.
