Loud humming noise
I only used the one set of tools for everything, removal and installation ...obviously I used different tools to remove the wheel, brake caliper, axle, etc. But taking the bearing out, and pressing it back in were used with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Does anyone here have experience with hum from a failing rear differential bearing? I have a hum whose pitch is directly proportional to vehicle speed, and it is coming from the rear, but not distinctly from one side or the other. Cornering does not affect the volume level or sound quality of the hum. The driver's side of the differential housing has a thin coat of caked oil on it, making me suspect the bearing and its seal may be going bad.
Other thoughts? Any experience with this? Typical cost of repair? (I don't hesitate to do stuff like brakes and timing belts, but this is probably something requiring a lift and special bearing presses, etc.)
Other thoughts? Any experience with this? Typical cost of repair? (I don't hesitate to do stuff like brakes and timing belts, but this is probably something requiring a lift and special bearing presses, etc.)
I'd suggest removing the differential and taking it, and the bearings, to a local machine shop. They'd probably charge you 25-50 to install new bearings and seals. Generally cheaper than buying tools you'll never use again.
Getting the diff off isn't difficult, but you need to get the car pretty far in the air, so a good set of stands, and a backup set, are required. Also, a really long extension (like 24") allows you to reach in from the wheel well to loosen and tighten the axle/diff screws. They're 12 point btw.
If you live north of the Mason-Dixon line, be prepared to break off the screws between the exhaust hanger and the diff support bracket. You can take it with the diff to the machine shop to be drilled out and retapped.
This is a time-consuming, tedious, dirty, and really greasy (if you've leaking seals) job. It's do-able though. Unless you want to buy a transfer pump for the diff oil (looks like a big hypodermic syringe), refill the diff before you reinstall. Also, a cheap $100 tranny jack makes raising and lowering the diff pretty easy, if you're working alone.
Getting the diff off isn't difficult, but you need to get the car pretty far in the air, so a good set of stands, and a backup set, are required. Also, a really long extension (like 24") allows you to reach in from the wheel well to loosen and tighten the axle/diff screws. They're 12 point btw.
If you live north of the Mason-Dixon line, be prepared to break off the screws between the exhaust hanger and the diff support bracket. You can take it with the diff to the machine shop to be drilled out and retapped.
This is a time-consuming, tedious, dirty, and really greasy (if you've leaking seals) job. It's do-able though. Unless you want to buy a transfer pump for the diff oil (looks like a big hypodermic syringe), refill the diff before you reinstall. Also, a cheap $100 tranny jack makes raising and lowering the diff pretty easy, if you're working alone.
I also vote wheel bearing. Mine did the same thing on the passenger side rear. I was jealous of my buddy in his Mazda, who got all four in his car done at $28 apiece; mine was done for $400. Autohaus Bayern in the Portland, OR area. 3-year warranty, though, so that's nice. I'm a mechanically-inclined dude but for this job it requires a lift and a slide-hammer (I'm a little apprehensive to use a slide-hammer with a car on jack stands) and so I left it to the professionals. Done in three hours, not a peep from the car since.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
heavymetal2000
B5 Models
4
Aug 3, 2013 04:47 PM
bad_bwoy007
B6 Models
3
Dec 5, 2009 10:56 PM



