question
So, I was driving the other day and the wheels stopped spinning.The engine was still on and accelerating but the wheels weren't spinning. I was able to push the car back to the house. I left it overnight then woke up and noticed some oil looking fluid had gathered underneath the drivers side front wheel.
I was wondering if anyone could give me an idea of what happened.
Also, when I was pushing the car in neutral it made a clicking noise that was localized in the drivers side from wheel well.
I was wondering if anyone could give me an idea of what happened.
Also, when I was pushing the car in neutral it made a clicking noise that was localized in the drivers side from wheel well.
Last edited by jnielsen; Feb 1, 2010 at 03:53 PM.
AWD? Was there a loud twanging sound when the car stopped moving?
I think one of your axles popped off of your transaxle.
Also, i have pushed a B6 before that had no transmission in it, and it made a distinct clicking sound while being pushed. A loud clicking sound.
I think your drivers side axle came off the transmission.
I think one of your axles popped off of your transaxle.
Also, i have pushed a B6 before that had no transmission in it, and it made a distinct clicking sound while being pushed. A loud clicking sound.
I think your drivers side axle came off the transmission.
okay, so i guess that depends on your level of skill - but you will at LEAST need a floor jack, jack stands, a torque wrench, a socket wrench, and torx driver bits to go on the torque wrench/socket.
If i'm right, you will need this part:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...eshaft/ES7993/
Or the equivalent version for automatic tranny - but you need to get under your car and find out whats wrong.
Check the transmission, and where the axles meet the transmission. also check the drive shaft.
If i'm right, you will need this part:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-...eshaft/ES7993/
Or the equivalent version for automatic tranny - but you need to get under your car and find out whats wrong.
Check the transmission, and where the axles meet the transmission. also check the drive shaft.
Don't try it with torx bits - get the right bits for it. They're 12-point bits, aka triple-square bits, and are available at some Napa stores. If not, you may be able to get them from a shop on a loan, or buy them from www.germanautoparts.com in a set of four sizes for about $10. And it's an 8mm bit for the axle-to-diff bolts.
Good call on the end axle bolt. It's big (needs a 17mm Allen bit) and has enormous torque. You'll want a new one - don't reuse the old one, not when it calls for 130 ft-lbs plus a 180 turn. Good news is you don't have to remove the pinch bolt. If you undo the lower control arms and remove the rotor, and possibly the bottom strut bolt, you can get the axle out of the hub if you need to replace it. You'll have more than enough room to reseat the inner end on the diff cup if it came out.
I'm wondering about this though - there are six bolts attaching the axle to the diff - it seems shaky that all six would come out or break. I'm wondering if you sheared one of the CV joints on the axle. You'd still lose propulsion that way and with both ends of the axle secured and the suspension fully hooked up the axle can't really fall out.
I'm wondering about this though - there are six bolts attaching the axle to the diff - it seems shaky that all six would come out or break. I'm wondering if you sheared one of the CV joints on the axle. You'd still lose propulsion that way and with both ends of the axle secured and the suspension fully hooked up the axle can't really fall out.
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