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Rebuilding 1.8T

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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:02 PM
  #31  
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How hard should the crank be to turn by hand?
 
Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:07 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cstone94
How hard should the crank be to turn by hand?
It's not going to be easy because you have to overcome the compression of the cylinders, but you shouldn't have to use a breaker bar either. I turned mine over with good two-handed grip on a 1/2" ratchet.
 
Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by CCA4
It's not going to be easy because you have to overcome the compression of the cylinders, but you shouldn't have to use a breaker bar either. I turned mine over with good two-handed grip on a 1/2" ratchet.
well I don't have the motor together and no pistons are in, I'm talking crank alone, torque'd to specs.
 
Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:17 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by cstone94
well I don't have the motor together and no pistons are in, I'm talking crank alone, torque'd to specs.
Oh. Then I have no idea lol
 
Old Aug 20, 2012 | 08:24 PM
  #35  
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the crank should spin pretty freely if there are no pistons. The resistance you get are from the compression from the pistons.
 
Old Aug 21, 2012 | 01:45 AM
  #36  
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the crank should turn pretty easily with no pistons in. if it is turning hard, something is messed up. dont get me wrong. it takes maybe a pound or two of force to get it turning, but you should sense that it is in corretly. its prety tough to mess up bearings and the oil pump, but if you did it is very bad
 
Old Aug 21, 2012 | 07:28 AM
  #37  
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Just to be sure, you plasti-guaged the main bearing gap correct?
 
Old Aug 21, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by jonbonesjones
Just to be sure, you plasti-guaged the main bearing gap correct?
Yes and they were in spec.
 
Old Aug 21, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #39  
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ok good, throw the pistons in.
 
Old Aug 21, 2012 | 09:04 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by jonbonesjones
ok good, throw the pistons in.
I need to gap the rings first, what is the constant you multiply the bore size by?
 



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