I had the battery disconnected while cleaning and just turned the key to on for a minute or more before trying to start again. From what I'm reading here I think that is it.....right?

 

Ok, I'll have to get it scanned then. Just going by no CEL. I've gone through the fuse panel once, I'll do it again. Question: Are all the fuse I should be looking at un the panel by the drivers door or are the some hiding elsewhere (sorry for the noobie question)?

Bob

 

Update:
Fuses are all good. However, from a thread I found else I think I should have power to fuse 32 with the key on and I don't. Since that is and ECU power fuse it would explain the no spark. I haven't got a scanner yet, but I'm betting it won't be able to communicate.

The question now is, if I should have power at fuse 32 then does anyone have a schematic to help me with a trace or should I just assume the most likely culprit us the ignition switch?

 

No codes? You should get an "unable to communicate"-like message if the ECU has no power. How are you measuring the voltage at the fuse? If you're measuring across the fuse then it SHOULD be 0v. Measure from each side of the fuse to a good ground. Both sides of the fuse should show 12v this way.

 

Well I must be getting power to some part of the ECU as the CEL lights when I turn the key on. But there are 4-5 fuses that say ECU in the legend.

I used a test light and a good ground on each side of the fuse. I read that I needed to check #32 and #5 for power on with the key. #5 had power and #32 did not.

 

Look up a wiring diagram to see where the wires from that fuse go and if it's fed by another fuse (like one under the hood or something) and try and trace why it has no power.

 

Update:

Time to back this thread up all the way to the beginning without making it to long. Bought this thing 2 months ago. It had a slight miss at lower rpms so I replaced the cam position sensor. Didn't help. Took it to a shop and they told me the timing belt was one tooth off (was done 12k before I bought the car). Before I had time to take it apart and re-align it the car stalled at a stop sign and wouldn't start again. Thinking the timing belt may have been the issue I pulled it apart and re-aligned it, however, still no start. Hence the start of this thread.

Today, I borrowed a Matco code reader this morning and found that I had a p0010 set. So I decided to put the old cam sensor back on and voila, it started but barely idles. So I shut it down, cleared the code, fired it up and let it run for 60 seconds and checked for codes again, this time "No Codes". Now I'm thinking I made the timing worse rather then better but I checked that thing 4 times before I buttoned it up, including turning the engine over many times with the key, lining up the crank and checking the cam alignment again.

Sorry I failed at keeping it short.

Looking for suggestions/recommendations. I don't know which way to turn now.

 

SUCCESS.....well it's still on the trailer it came in on so I haven't test driven it yet but one more manual TBA resolved the idling issue. Let it warm up, rev'ed it up a few times, held it at 2k rpm for a little bit. Shut it down, checked for codes and it's clean.

Test drive tomorrow but I'm calling this one solved. In the end the issue was the new Cam Position Sensor I got from one of the local parts houses. TRW brand I think, didn't have 100 miles on it yet. Anyway. Thanks all for the help.