I am getting my 01 Avant back in shape after a freak tire blow out. It has the 2.8 in it and seeing that I put over a grand into it over the last couple weeks (bearings, rear end components, tires, bumper cover, muffler and some bushings for good measure) I figure I should keep going in the motor. I am doing plugs, wires, fluids, filters and a new battery. My question is what else should I do. I have read around about actuators that can fail, vents that get blocked and other such what-nots and was hoping maybe someone could point me in the right direction for write ups on various things that could be cleaned, vacuum lines to be checked valves that might need to be unstuck. The car has had a low chugging idle ( around 600 rpm) since I got it so I figure that's normal because when I get on it it goes fine but I don't know maybe it should be higher. Basically I am looking to make this car as fresh as possible while I have a loaner so I have a reliable and versatile car for years to come (after this repair bill I sure as **** don't have a down payment for a new one.)
Thanks in advance

 

I would definitely do the free stuff first. Check for leaves on and around the firewall. Sunroof gutter drains.

We have different engines, but here's a list of some of the things I've done to my car (If it helps):

Seafoamed Fuel, PCV and Oil
Complete cooling system flush & fill
Gearbox fluid change - Full Synthetic (3 Qts. GL-4 80w90)
New ACCEL “KOOL BLUE” High Flow Lifetime Air Filter
Cleaned Sunroof gutter drains
Fixed Sunroof switch
Replaced cabin air filter
Added Rear Fog Lights (standard equipment in Europe)
New Tie Rods (all 4 – Inner and Outer)
Replaced Vacuum Lines
Replaced Fuel Filter and Spark Plugs
Replaced Crankshaft Positioning Sensor
Cleaned Throttle Body and intake runners
New Coil Packs
Replaced remaining (old/stock) vacuum hoses
Gauge cluster LCD panel professionally replaced (w/true European parts)
Replaced 3-way (vacuum) check valve
Replaced Hood Strut/Support
Replaced Fuel Injector Relay
Replaced Oxygen Sensor Relay
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay
Replaced Upstream Oxygen Sensor (Bosch)
Replaced Coolant Flange and filled with coolant
Replaced Coolant temperature Sensor
Replaced Power Steering Rack (Rack & Pinion)
Replaced all four upper control arms
Replaced Clutch (with “Grip force - Stage 1” HD Clutch )
Replaced Flywheel and converted clutch/flywheel assembly to a “single mass”
Replaced all four lower control arms and sway bar links
Replaced all tie rods (inner and outer)
Installed new ECS “Ultimate” Timing Kit.
To include (all German made):
• HD Timing Belt
• Tensioner Roller
• Tensioner w/ Small Roller
• Water Pump w/ Gasket
• Thermostat w/ O-Ring
• A/C Accessory Belt
• Alternator Accessory Belt
Installed new Snub Mount
New alignment & Tires rotated
Installed new central locking system pump and extended reception range (159 ft) + added features to key fob functionality
Had both valve cover gaskets replaced
Had entire tensioner gasket kit (all gaskets) replaced
Had PCV valve replaced
Had PVC hose kit replaced (and upgraded to braided silicone hose and billet aluminum seat)
Had purge valve replaced
Converted reverse/backup lights and license plate light bulbs to Hyper White LEDs
Replaced Brake lights (w/Sylvania “Long Life” 7528s)
Replaced entire Cabin Lighting assembly (including sunroof switch) and converted all light bulbs to 6000K Hyper White LEDs
Replaced alternator (upgraded to 120 amps)
Replaced Ambient Air temp. sensor
Replaced Fuel pressure “Purge Valve”
Replaced Oil pressure Sensor
Replaced Ambient Air temp. sensor #2 – “Fresh Air Sensor”
Installed Micron (Hypo-Allergenic) Cabin Air Filter
Installed tuned ECU (adjusted timing, increased boost from 10psi to 17psi; increased redline from 6400 rpm to 7100 rpm, deleted top speed limiter, etc.)
Installed new slotted and cross-drilled rotors
Installed new ceramic brake pads
Had new (Bosch) Fuel Pump installed
Cleaned fuel system (full can of Seafom in tank)
Installed new (rear) ceramic brake pads and painted calipers
Replaced driver’s side (left) CV Axle Drive Shaft
Replaced Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line
Replaced passenger’s side (right) CV Axle Drive Shaft
Replaced Cam speed sensor
New Oil pressure sensor
Ne Oil Level & Temp Sensor
New Coil Packs
New Driver’s side CV Axle shaft assembly
Complete cooling system flush & fill
Replaced batteries and reprogrammed both key FOBs
Cleaned Throttle Body & Mass Air Flow Sensor
Replaced Fuel Filter
Cleaned fuel system, Vacuum system and lubed upper cylinders
Replaced VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)

G/L

 

Wow, that is a list, I like the seafoam, I use it in my bike and don't know why I didn't think about it. I actually forgot about my fuel filter so that is now on my list. I think sensors will wait until they go bad. What brand lights did you use in the cabin and are they good? I have seen a lot of them out there and don't know what ones are worth buying. I have to do they sunroof switch and if I am going to rip it apart I might as well start changing bulbs. I didn't realize it could be repaired just figured I would have to live with not opening it until I could afford the new part. I also didn't know the rear fog was euro, mine has it but it makes the car look like it has a blown tail light so I don't use it. Thanks for the list, it sounds like yours is ready to run for the next decade, as for me I'm off to find a diy on cleaning sunroof drains.

 

My pleasure.

Believe it or not, the ebay LEDs work great in the interior, footwells, glove box, trunk, backup lights, license plate lights, etc. They're nice and bright, they update the car by a decade and they're super cheap. Just make sure you get the ones that have LEDs on every side (and the top of) the bulb. Those are bright. The single LEDs suck.

Sunroof switch: Pop off the clear plastic light bulb cover first and then pop off the other plastic cover (gently pull down on the bezel surrounding the dome light master switch and you'll see that the entire dome assembly is one piece and it just snaps in and pulls out. Tip: The clips that hold it in place are right behind that dome light switch, but spread out just a little bit. Pop that off and watch for a one wire "plug". Disconnect that and you'll be able to move the last plastic cover (2 of 2). Now you'll have access to the dome lights (good time to change them out). To the inner side of each dome light, there are holes that lead up to two phillips head screws (one on each side). Take those out and then the entire switch assembly can be popped out by prying down on the very back (the side facing the trunk). Once out, you'll see the backside of the switch. Unplug the wire harnesses and you should have the whole assembly out and free to work on. The switch assembly has three small torx screws (you can use a small flat head screwdriver in a pinch). When you get that back cover off, you'll see the metal contacts that control the current in the switch. You need to bend them up just a little but, so they can make good contact again (that's why they take a **** - bad contacts).

Read that paragraph backwards to reassemble. Don't forget that single wire at the end. Also, you may bend them to much/not enough, etc. If you find yourself having problems with the switch after reassembly, you can compensate for that by either tightening the torx screws, or backing them out a little bit. You don't have to dismantle it again. Just play with it before you put everything back together and you should find the sweet spot.

The Euro tail conversion has a trick to it. The car will accommodate bulbs on both sides (if you look at passenger side light grid, you'll see there's an empty socket for the bulb), but the passenger side taillight housing doesn't have an opening for the bulb. Just take the taillight out, drill the right size hole where the bulb is supposed to be, add another bulb and you're good. Vacuum it out after you drill the hole if you want to keep it clean.

Let me know if there's anything else you need that I can help with and G/L.

 

Thanks for everything so far, slowly but surely this thing is coming together. I think when I am done I might put up some pics and share her beauty with the world! (joking , I mean its a silver avant)

 

My pleasure.

I'd love to see some pics. There's no such thing as an ugly B5. Maybe neglected, horrible paint and/or mods, but the B5 will always be sexy IMO. It's a truly "classic car".