Looks good devil, great improvement over the old wheels.

 

Don't try the bat technique if you don't know what the hell you're doing. I did the baseball technique a couple years ago on my friends B6. Had a good heat gun on the paint at all times and smoothly creased along the lip evenly. Once you got the contour of the desired roll engraved into the wooden bat it becomes easier and just takes some stamina and muscle. I don't recommend most people doing it because I have seen some bat-jobs and they come out looking like ****. Very uneven and warped. But if you do it right the end result looks a little like this:

 

God damn! ^

 

Jesus, how does that guy even drive?

euro, that info is much appreciated. Thanks for posting it - I'm going to try and get the roller but if it's not available, there's a shop in town that does amazing bodywork so I'll talk to them about rolling them. I really don't want to screw them up.

 

Found this the other night:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1777067

He did it right. A DIY'r like yourself should be able to do this without a sweat. What I did different from him was that I already had the car low. I started with a little Slugger bat. Then got the big Louisville once it was flared a little. It's much harder because you can't stop in the middle of the rolling or else you risk leaving a permanent concavity on your fender where the movement seized. When the metal is heated it can be molded super easy. It actually flexes where you want it and snaps right back. Takes a bit longer IMO but you don't risk chipping the paint.

 

Hell no will I ever attempt to do something like that! Knowing me, I'll screw something up big time. I'm not even going to lie, I'm worried about my upcoming boost gauge DIY!

Of course, I'm still at "winter height on winter wheels (15s)" pretty much year round until I can justify buying new c/o and wheels. I have the money, but it's being saved for a kick *** vacation with the family.

 

i knw that takes alot of time to do

 

I've got a lowly minimum wage job! Coilovers seem unattainably far away, even cheaper VMAXX.
But I'm definately going to get fenders rolled when I go low. The plan is to use some money from an extra college loan to fabricate a widebody. Kinda like A4rob's. That will save me from some rubbing.

Quick question: where are you most likely to rub, on the fender or on the suspension. I mean, why do they sell spacers if they just push you towards the fender. If you're most likely to rub fender, than why get spacers? I'm all for the poked look, but not at the cost of new tires every month.

 

I HATE YOU MAN!!! if one day you come home and your car on bricks i had nothing to do with it just FYI

 

Lol no sweat Emil - the Russian Mafia is above suspicion on this one

Kayak, talk to a4_2.8tuner about pulling the fenders rather than a full widebody. For one, a nice set of 8.5-9" wide wheels will fill them, which is way cheaper than the custom multipiece wheels that you'd need for filling a true widebody. My friend did 4" wide flares on his Z to the tune of $6000 for fabrication and paint (he did it right with sheetmetal welded rather than flares bonded on), and the 18x13 HRE wheels and 335-30ZR18 tires to fill them (plus the 18x10 fronts with 265-35-18s) were even more than that. Second, even though you need paint after a fender pull, the labor is far less because you're not fabricating flares.

Spacers are made because fender rub, which can be helped with a roll, is less evil than tearing up tires on suspension components. And you can poke without having to order wheels in a custom offset. And the pull looks awesome.