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turbo whooshing noise, started today

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Old Jul 19, 2010 | 11:06 PM
  #11  
hauptjr's Avatar
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1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 125
From: Pittsburgh, PA
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Thanks for the help. Appears that I parked in a bad location. No noticable leakage when I moved the car. (that's the problem with on-street parking).

I have 3 codes:
Component and/or Version: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Software Coding: 16251
Work Shop Code: WSC 63351
3 Faults Found:
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 35-00 - -
17964 - Charge Pressure Control: Negative Deviation
P1556 - 35-00 - -
16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 35-00 - -
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

The P0420 is semi-permanent - every time I clear it, it comes back in 50 miles or less of around town driving. (it never comes on during interstate driving - unless stuck in stop and go traffic).

Took it to a foreign car mechanic. He read the codes to me and said that I need to replace the wastegate inside the turbo, or replace the CAT (I have a p0402 error) - and in a worstcase scenerio replace both. He also tells me that a bad CAT might be causing my occassion p0303 errors.

I'm not sure the best way to go about troubleshooting this. but I can't afford to just replace parts.

Oh - heres another question - in my city, we have mandatory emissions testing. Would the emissions sniff test reveal any useful clues?

It was late - his guys hadnt opened the hood, they just read the codes. I was still at work with someone breathing down my neck (so to speak) so I asked if we could talk about it in the morning. I really had hoped to post this message hours ago. (work, and then other issues/crisises - I just walked in the door 10 min ago).

So advice would be much appreciated!
Thanks!

PS - onepointeighttee - I'll PM you.
 
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 11:32 PM
  #12  
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A good mechanic would clear any present codes to see which one's come back. One or more of those codes could be old and irelevant. I kept getting the negative deviation code until I replaced my DV (and dv vac line) and N75 valve. I did them at the same time so it was hard to know which one was the fix. Definitely hold off on the wastegate theory until you've rulled out those 2 things.

Does the 17705 code actualy say "check bypass valve" or something like that? If so then I would certainly just replace it. No point in trying to diagnose a possible tear in the internal diaphragm unless you have a vacuum tool.

I don't think an emissions test would reveal anything. The last code probably points to a lazy 02 sensor.
 
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 11:51 PM
  #13  
hauptjr's Avatar
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1st Gear
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 125
From: Pittsburgh, PA
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thanks for the input.

I cleared the codes and then drove for a while, so I know those codes are fresh and meaningful.

BTW - does your DV come with clamps or do I just need to buy basic clamps?

Thanks!
 
Old Jul 19, 2010 | 11:57 PM
  #14  
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You can reuse the 2 big clamps from your DV and the little vacuum line clamp can be replaced with a zip tie. The DV vac line should definitely be replaced when you do this, and I may have enough left over for you if you want that dv. I can even include a zip tie!

FYI you really don't even need a clamp on the dv vac line. It's just sucking and not blowing so the chances of it coming off are pretty much 0%, the vac line is very snug on the nipple, but a zip tie will give a man peace of mind.
 

Last edited by onepoint8tee; Jul 19, 2010 at 11:59 PM.
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