Yep, it took a bit of messing with it. It was much easier when I decided to disconnect the oil feed line since I already had it loose on the other side. Once I did that it was like a 10 minute job

 

I recently had my K03 flashed for a mild K04 tune from Speedtuning, meaning it's designed for stock injectors and 20PSI boost at most. I remember asking Oliver what else he recommends to compliment the tune, and other than an exhaust and DV, and said a FPR. I sent him another email asking which one he's referring too, but haven't received a response yet.

Anyone know why I'd need to use something other than the stock 4 bar? And if so, why? Because I am using a mild k04 tune on my stock K03, I'm not interested in Speedtunings full blown K04 tune that requires injectors, IMO that would be simply too aggressive for the stock turbo, especially with 240K miles. For the record, the car is running great and I've had the tune for approximately 2K I believe. In my mind, if it's running good, why change anything? But, if someone believes a FPR other than the stock 4 bar would be more beneficial, I'm all ears.

The only other thing I haven't upgraded yet is my intercooler, but will get more serious as the summer approaches. Just trying to squeeze out as much as possible from this tune.....

Thanks!

 

I would be surprised if you need a different fpr, but I suppose you may use a 3 bar. I would give him a call

Edit: I misread this, I thought the tune was for 440cc injectors, not stock injectors. Disregard my post

 

Recently replaced my clutch, about a 100 miles or so, after my throwout bearing fragged into about 20 different pieces inside my transmission. Drove for 5 days, and then a loud pop/bang sound, and my driver side CV axle broke.

So it's been pretty nice outside today, got it up on the stands, put a new axle on, test driving, and my steering goes hard as I'm turning back into the parking lot where I was working.

I leave the car running and hear a hissing sound. I open the hood, check the reservoir, it's empty. I look under the car, and the hose that's right in front, from the PS cooler line(?) is spitting out PS fluid.

I get the clamp off the front hose, trace it all the way to the rack and pinion. So now I have to go buy a new hose, and a 22mm socket.

So tomorrow, I'll be fixing my now, not so "phantom" PS leak. Getting that 22mm banjo bolt off is going to be a pain though! Seriously, all I want to do is drive my car!

 

Today I topped off the center differential oil with Ravenol 75w-90 gear oil.
The center differential seal was replaced the day before

 

All new control arms on the left front. Did the right front last fall. I've been shooting grease into the boots on the ball joints. That does work. This is the first time the bushings on my C Arms went before the ball joints.

 

A K04 will be able to max out the stock injectors. By throwing in a different FPR, which will probably be a 5bar (GIAC offers a mild K04 tune that uses stock injectors @ 5bar), you can get higher fuel flow out of the injector.

And why would you need a different FPR when you're still running the K03 (but with the K04 tune)? Because you need hardware to match software. The tune will expect a certain amount of fuel to be present. If it's not then your car may run lean/rich.

 

Awesome, I mean awesome input here!

I recently contacted Oliver with Speedtuning and his response wasn't 100% reassuring, but it does make "some sense." He said because the tune was written for a K04 turbo, the situation "in his opinion" is played out so to speak....

For example, he said "let me know how it runs with your K03s".....so IMO that means he's not sure what will happen....

At one point, he thought my car came with a 3.5BAR FPR, but didn't argue when I said it comes with a 4BAR stock. He asked me if I had used a Vag-Com for any rich/lean codes, and luckily nothing showed up upon scanning it about 2 weeks ago. In his opinion, he thought I could run a 5BAR with this tune, however if there were no "known codes for fuel related issues" upon the Vag-Com, he said "why make adjustments at this point with no known issues."

I'm not 100% confident with where I'm at, however I do feel "ok" I suppose knowing Vag-Com didn't show any active codes as of 2 weeks ago. My question for you Metal Man would be whether and/or how I'm able to run further fueling tests using Vag-Com? I've never personally used the device, it's my uncle (personal mechanic who owns his Audi/VW shop) that takes care of repairs/Etc. for me. However, I've only seen him scan the vehicle for active codes, I don't recall him using it for running further tests.....so maybe that's what I need to look into and let him know it's a good idea to know where my vehicle is at with fueling values, or anything else for that matter in making sure everything is running tip-top with this "new tune" ....

"Edit" To break down the paragraph above....is there another way to tell if I'm running lean/rich other than active Vag-Come trouble codes? Is the unit capable of finding deeper issues without active codes being thrown? It seems that the vehicle is running good though, no lean/rich active codes as of yet, no smoke, etc etc......seems to be running strong from what I can tell.....

What do you think?

Thanks again for the time you're taking to help me gain insight on the situation! Much appreciated!

 

Just test drive my car for the first time since I put in everything, all I can say is why didn't i do this earlier? I drove about 100 miles and opened it up a few times (only to about 4-5k) and it felt so good....until my diverter valve blew off (I thought I blew the turbo haha). It was the best feeling I've had since I bought the car

 

New to me car got 4 new spark plugs.